Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted

Which ride techs? If they are adjustable I don't mind spending the money

 

And would I have to swap out the bushings and sleeves?

 

 

PM sent...

 

You wont have to change the sleeves and bushings, will come with bushings installed and 2 different size sleeves that slip right in.

Croak Enthusiast

Croak

Posted
Posted

maybe it's a regular cab thing.. my truck rides amazing

Different standards maybe? I've got the Belltech 2210FFs out back of my double cab and they ride awful whether the truck is loaded or empty.

  • Like 1
07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

I'm extremely picky on lowering kits and shocks... the belltech nitro's suck.. but these street performer's are awesome..

Im sure they ride awesome on your crew cab being you have another 1000lbs to haul around. Our regular cab trucks have the same springs less all of that extra weight.

 

RT

Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted

 

 

14Silvy is right about just relocating the bottom of the strut to the bottom of the control arm which is how rough country mounts all of their lowering kits so it is safe.... However, as I said in my previous post, I have a 2016 and the DJM Control 2" arm did not work for my truck 4WD Silverado so do your research on your truck and call DJM prior to purchasing those control arms. I had to send the kit back after about a 30min 3 way call with Jeff from DJM.... I was refunded but it still cost me $180 buck to ship the entire 2515-2/4 kit back to DJM due to the weight of the entire kit and warning, based on my experiences this past week, DJM's customer service sucks...

 

How many miles have you got on your truck after lowering the front? Are you having any issues with it?

Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted

 

 

^^^ Agreed!!

 

I called them 3 different times about 3 different issues with their flip kit and the response all 3 times was "wow never heard that before" even sent them pictures and they still had no answers. I boxed all their shit up and sent it back.

 

If relocating the mount under the control arm (did this for about 11k miles) I would suggest some aircraft bolts just to be safe and on my CC 6.2 it netted 3-3/8 of a drop.

 

After 11K miles what made you change your mind about the way you had your shocks mounted on the bottom of the a arms? Did you do something different?

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted

I put the truck back to stock height with a level in the rear for an exhaust, now I pulled the exhaust off and going put the flip kit back on change mounting position in front again.

  • Like 1
Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted

I put the truck back to stock height with a level in the rear for an exhaust, now I pulled the exhaust off and going put the flip kit back on change mounting position in front again.

 

Going back under the a arm with the front shocks? Is it just as easy and unbolting, working through to the bottom of the arm and bolting back up?

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted

 

Going back under the a arm with the front shocks? Is it just as easy and unbolting, working through to the bottom of the arm and bolting back up?

 

 

Basically

14 Silvy Enthusiast

14 Silvy

Posted
Posted

 

Going back under the a arm with the front shocks? Is it just as easy and unbolting, working through to the bottom of the arm and bolting back up?

You have to grind one corner of the strut where the bolt goes thru so it will sit up in the control arm.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted

You have to grind one corner of the strut where the bolt goes thru so it will sit up in the control arm.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

 

Yes, For stock. I have Bilsteins so the corners needed none.

Heavy_Static Enthusiast

Heavy_Static

Posted
Posted

Gentlemen,

 

I'm in the market for a 17 LT Z71...it's just a matter of finding a dealer who's going to work with me to get me down into the pricepoint where I'll buy. Anyway, that's besides the point:

 

I've lurked here for a while and have basically decided on a 4/7 Belltech drop and Bilsteins. My question is which model Bils should I be looking for, and any pitfalls on either that I should be aware of? Looking at Nasty's ride, I'm probably going to throw some McGaughy helpers on it too.

 

My '98 F150 is still riding on Nitros all these years later, and while the ride sucks, I didn't know any better and just got used to it. I'm looking to avoid that this time around.

 

Thanks for the help.

  • Like 1
Darth_Vader Enthusiast

Darth_Vader

Posted
Posted

Im sure they ride awesome on your crew cab being you have another 1000lbs to haul around. Our regular cab trucks have the same springs less all of that extra weight.

 

RT

 

Sized some QA1's for the rear, single knob compression/rebound adjustable, hoping to be able to smooth the rear out a little bit without having to haul 10 bags of sand in the rear! Hope to have them installed in the next week or two.

  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

I need part numbers. I was going to do double adjustable Vikings with shock relocation but I might not be able to use my relocation kit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Atlas
      Gas Prices

      By Atlas · Posted

      Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • bluev8
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By bluev8 · Posted

      That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • scotthvac.net
      2022-24 halogen - led grille swap

      By scotthvac.net · Posted

      2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...