Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I don’t get why the INEZ kit gets such a bad rap on here. 

I have had both MCG on a 2014 and now a INEZ kit on my 2016 and honestly not much of a big difference in ride that I can tell and my alignment on both have been put back to factory spec.

I will say though it seems like when I go over a rough road or a pothole that the rear end does shutter a tiny bit harder then I would like. But kinda used to stiffer rides for having lowered cars all my life and a lowered truck I expected the same. Just jars me a little harder then I would love lol

Posted
12 hours ago, BkFromTxs said:

I don’t get why the INEZ kit gets such a bad rap on here. 

I have had both MCG on a 2014 and now a INEZ kit on my 2016 and honestly not much of a big difference in ride that I can tell and my alignment on both have been put back to factory spec.

I will say though it seems like when I go over a rough road or a pothole that the rear end does shutter a tiny bit harder then I would like. But kinda used to stiffer rides for having lowered cars all my life and a lowered truck I expected the same. Just jars me a little harder then I would love lol

Youll notice balljoints going bad way more often with inez.  I pull those inez kits off for local guys all the time

Posted

Is anybody running these belltech street shocks? Looking to upgrade over the ranchos that came on it. 

 

https://www.belltech.com/products/belltech/lowering/shocks-struts/belltech-street-performance-9688.html

 

I currently have the 2 inch drop shackles in the rear and like how it sits. Might remove the rear block to get it more leveled out. Was looking for opinions on these shocks. 

Posted
35 minutes ago, CombsL83 said:

Is anybody running these belltech street shocks? Looking to upgrade over the ranchos that came on it. 

 

https://www.belltech.com/products/belltech/lowering/shocks-struts/belltech-street-performance-9688.html

 

I currently have the 2 inch drop shackles in the rear and like how it sits. Might remove the rear block to get it more leveled out. Was looking for opinions on these shocks. 

Anything is an improvement over the Rancho's - My brother ran those when he was at a 0/3 drop and it was a big improvement 

Posted
1 hour ago, Dinner said:

Anything is an improvement over the Rancho's - My brother ran those when he was at a 0/3 drop and it was a big improvement 

Cool thanks for the feedback. My wife owes me an anniversary present next month so I think these will be it :)

Posted
On 4/4/2019 at 11:14 AM, CombsL83 said:

Is anybody running these belltech street shocks? Looking to upgrade over the ranchos that came on it. 

 

https://www.belltech.com/products/belltech/lowering/shocks-struts/belltech-street-performance-9688.html

 

I currently have the 2 inch drop shackles in the rear and like how it sits. Might remove the rear block to get it more leveled out. Was looking for opinions on these shocks. 

 

I'm running them. truck rides great, big improvement over stock even at 4/6 

 

 

 

Posted
 
I'm running them. truck rides great, big improvement over stock even at 4/6 
 
 
 


Do you notice difference in the way the rear rides? Smoother would you say? I already have struts in the front and notice small difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
8 hours ago, qwank said:

 

I'm running them. truck rides great, big improvement over stock even at 4/6 

 

 

 

Thanks for the feedback. Looking forward to getting these soon.

Posted

2016 with McGaughy’s adjustable drop set at 3/5. Just had the 24s put on today. Wheels are 24x10 +25 offset on 295/35/24 tires. Noticed some fender liner rubbing in reverse, may have to mess around with it to see if I can zip tie for a quick fix.

Next on the list is to remove the side steps... was lifted before haha.

516a81fd82deeb0d80614712a0f58113.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Question for the bigger brains in this thread:

 

What I'm currently running: 2017 CCSB Silverado with stamped arms, Belltech 25004 lowering struts set to the lowest setting (the one slightly taller ring) in the front, and I have the rear brought down with a pair of McGaughys 33037 1"-2" drop shackles on the lowest setting with the block removed.

 

What I want: Before the Belltechs I was leveled and the plan was to bring the front end down a little to minimize the squatted look it would have depending on where it was sitting (an optical illusion from street inclines).  With the additional drop in the front, I now want to bring the back end down either to level or just a bit higher 'because aesthetics.'

 

Finally, the question: Assuming I'm  currently at a 2.5"-3" drop in the back, is my only option for bringing the back end down further to a 4" or 5" total drop going to be installing new hangers and replacing the stock shackles?

Posted
1 hour ago, boombalatty said:

Question for the bigger brains in this thread:

 

What I'm currently running: 2017 CCSB Silverado with stamped arms, Belltech 25004 lowering struts set to the lowest setting (the one slightly taller ring) in the front, and I have the rear brought down with a pair of McGaughys 33037 1"-2" drop shackles on the lowest setting with the block removed.

 

What I want: Before the Belltechs I was leveled and the plan was to bring the front end down a little to minimize the squatted look it would have depending on where it was sitting (an optical illusion from street inclines).  With the additional drop in the front, I now want to bring the back end down either to level or just a bit higher 'because aesthetics.'

 

Finally, the question: Assuming I'm  currently at a 2.5"-3" drop in the back, is my only option for bringing the back end down further to a 4" or 5" total drop going to be installing new hangers and replacing the stock shackles?

Flip kit and lift hanger for the rear

  • Like 1
Posted

Finally got lowered. Referred to this thread a lot and thanks to the community for posting opinions and experience. Went with 3/5 belltech spindle & adjustable SP shocks up front, flip kit with lift hangers out back also with SP shocks. Couldn't be happier with the ride. Not overly firm but much more stable in turns. No shakes, vibes, or issues. 

FB_IMG_1557427251620.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Does anyone have any strut spacer rings laying around that they dont need? I'm thinking about adding 1 to each side to try and get rid of the minimal running I have.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have some Belltech rings you can have, just let me know where to send them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,724
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    No1UKnow
    Newest Member
    No1UKnow
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,094 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...