Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Charles Baltimore Enthusiast

Charles Baltimore

Posted
Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Melks said:

Just had my Belltech 2/4 lowering kit installed :cool:

2015sierra.jpg

Is it optical illusion or is that camber kicking inward pretty good?

Edited by Charles Baltimore
  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Charles Baltimore Enthusiast

Charles Baltimore

Posted
Posted

Lowering kit I purchased is basically converting control arms to cast models from 07-13 trucks.  Consultant says reason is so late model spindles can be used, and that these Better avoid CV axles.  Also that ball joints and maintenance parts are readily available and nothing is exotic or difficult to R&R down the road.  Is there any reason this kit would change outward “poke”/ offset  situation?  As it sits the truck is stanced nicely.  Anything else to consider before installing this one?

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Charles Baltimore said:

Lowering kit I purchased is basically converting control arms to cast models from 07-13 trucks.  Consultant says reason is so late model spindles can be used, and that these Better avoid CV axles.  Also that ball joints and maintenance parts are readily available and nothing is exotic or difficult to R&R down the road.  Is there any reason this kit would change outward “poke”/ offset  situation?  As it sits the truck is stanced nicely.  Anything else to consider before installing this one?

07-16 (such as my 16) use the same arms

Melks Enthusiast

Melks

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, Charles Baltimore said:

Is it optical illusion or is that camber kicking inward pretty good?

Not a whole lot of chamber adjustment from stock. I do have larger sidewall tires than factory spec with the GM 17’s on it right now so it fills up the wheel wells more that’s about it.

Melks Enthusiast

Melks

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, RevolverK2 said:

Finally got my drop shackles installed and blocks removed last week, now I’ve got the disease though...I want to go lower emoji51.png

 

 

426ebfb6e5ba2d8571573117d3df9116.jpg16aaddea19635100a9d06dd4b31fdd31.jpg977d408d76f1befc19f7a136351e44bc.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Nice. Yea that’s how it started for me!

Imperial91 Enthusiast

Imperial91

Posted
Posted
New to the page.  Anyone running 305/35/24s with +30 offset on a 15 silv crew 4x4 with a 4/6 drop 



I’m running 295/35/24 on +25 offset. I rub on a 3/5 drop if that’s what you were wondering?

86b45da14293ac88439977a853fc5858.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, C-Dub37 said:

New to the page.  Anyone running 305/35/24s with +30 offset on a 15 silv crew 4x4 with a 4/6 drop 

For sure. Thats bigger than stock. And up front you being at 4 means spindle and spring. The spring will kick the tire back into the wheel well causing rubbing 

maxpower98 Enthusiast

maxpower98

Posted
Posted
On 6/29/2019 at 10:01 AM, C-Dub37 said:

New to the page.  Anyone running 305/35/24s with +30 offset on a 15 silv crew 4x4 with a 4/6 drop 

i would say no without tubs and other modifications. i run a 275-45-22 in the front of my 2014 silverado with a 4/6ish drop and it rubs over decent bumps and dips. my tire is roughly 2 inches smaller than the tire/wheel combo you are trying to run.

lovelessjl Enthusiast

lovelessjl

Posted
Posted
New to the page.  Anyone running 305/35/24s with +30 offset on a 15 silv crew 4x4 with a 4/6 drop 
Just to pitch in I'm running 305/40/22 on a 4/6 drop, and I rub on big bumps and when turning.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

DeltAlphaOscar New Member

DeltAlphaOscar

Posted
Posted
On 6/30/2019 at 1:13 AM, Imperial91 said:

 

 


I’m running 295/35/24 on +25 offset. I rub on a 3/5 drop if that’s what you were wondering?

86b45da14293ac88439977a853fc5858.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

I like that stance. What brand are you using. 

Imperial91 Enthusiast

Imperial91

Posted
Posted
I like that stance. What brand are you using. 



McGaughy’s adjustable kit


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
UofAZCats Enthusiast

UofAZCats

Posted
Posted

Thinking about putting on a rear sway bar.  The Hellwig 7735 is the primary choice.  I am concerned reading in a couple of places that there are issues with fit in certain situations.  My truck is lowered 2/4.5 ish.  I have the stock exhaust.  I have read a review that indicated an issue with the spare tire and another that said it had an issue with the stock exhaust.  I am sure none of these were from lowered truck owners.  Anyone have any issues installing this bar in this situation? 

NoLand Enthusiast

NoLand

Posted
Posted
Oh yea, he got my shock relocation from Cali to Mississippi in like 3 days because my truck was down til it got here. I used the extensive notch with crossbars and had it not been underbed notched the one from extensive would have slid right onto my frame and been an easy install. I love my fox 2.0 shocks but I can’t wait to have their 4 link with Viking coilovers on the rear. 


Do you have the part # for the Fox 2.0 shocks you used? I was looking into them, but even with shock extenders it looks like the ones listed for our trucks would be too long.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dinner Enthusiast

Dinner

Posted
Posted

Haven't posted in awhile - At least since I've installed my new wheels.  22x9.5 KMC Prism Truck in brushed silver wrapped in 285/40R22 Nitto 420S - Super happy with the look but dealing a slight vibration around 115-120 km/h - They were a bitch to balance so thinking I need to re do them or see if I have a rear bad tire. 

 

Also, finally removed the PF strut spacer to level out the front side to side and got my camber adjusted to a more respectable amount (-0.8 to -0.9) 

 

Full paint correction and ceramic coating too.

 

Looking into going lower eventually. Would like to do 5/8 or 6/8 with twisted metal works upper arms, either their coil over kit or Belltech coil overs, then twisted metal works under bed notch with either Viking or Ridetech adjustable shocks - These Belltech SP shocks are just too damn stiff on these K2 trucks 

truck.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
    • Matt Parker
      Clunk when putting truck into drive and reverse.

      By Matt Parker · Posted

      It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power.    I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings?   EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears.   UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...