Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
12 hours ago, 204-WPG said:

Have you tried 4/7 instead before getting new tires for now? My thinking is based on what you’re looking at 3/4-1” gap between fender and tires.

I don’t have a whole lot of adjustability In the front. I could probably come up 1/2 using spacers, but I really like the way it sits now. I know I’ll need new tires eventually to achieve the look I’m after.

the top of the tires is only about a half inch from the carpet liner in the front. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

For Christmas I got the Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) to add to the leaf springs to help with roll and traction.  I haven't put it on yet because the system is designed for trucks without flip kits.  The system is connects the rear end of the leaf spring (which is not affected by the flip kit) to the middle section of the springs just in front of the axle.  With the axle sitting on top using a flip kit there is nothing for the front of the RAS to grip.  I think it will work if I put the stock 1.5" blocks in on the bottom side of the leaf springs.  Assuming the U-bolts are tensioned properly I don't think it would be a problem.  Anyone with experience or thoughts on this?

 

I would test this but I can only find one stock block from when I had the flip kit put on the truck.  Anyone have an extra stock block they could spare?  I want to use the stock blocks because they have the ridges on the ends which will hold them in place instead of sliding.  Hoping someone can help a lowered Chevy brother out.

 

image.png.e549de93e936738ee2c142e1891d41e8.png

Posted

Hello everyone. I have a 2018 Sierra 4x4 and I bought the Belltech kit 1017SP. I am going for a 2" front and 4" rear drop. I installed the 2514 - 2" drop spindles and the 25004 - Lowering Strut. The strut has all 6 rings in for a 0" drop. After I put the truck back on the ground I was very surprised to see it was not dropped at all. I thought the spindles would give me the 2" drop and the strut would allow you to drop it further.

 

Does anyone know what I did wrong? Do I need to set the strut for a 2" drop to get 2" total?

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, SeekAndDestroy said:

Hello everyone. I have a 2018 Sierra 4x4 and I bought the Belltech kit 1017SP. I am going for a 2" front and 4" rear drop. I installed the 2514 - 2" drop spindles and the 25004 - Lowering Strut. The strut has all 6 rings in for a 0" drop. After I put the truck back on the ground I was very surprised to see it was not dropped at all. I thought the spindles would give me the 2" drop and the strut would allow you to drop it further.

 

Does anyone know what I did wrong? Do I need to set the strut for a 2" drop to get 2" total?

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Belltech 25004 struts are lowering or lifting struts. If it came with 6 spacers and you put them all in, you lifted the front 2" with the struts. Do you basically lowered it 2" with the spindles and then lifted it back up with the strut. 

If you only wanted 2" up front, why not just leave the stock struts?

Take half the spacers out and put them back in, that should be stock height. 

Edited by Daly
  • Like 1
Posted

eb9b9242d1a78c3b75ca1c107a96e031.jpg

17’ 6.2L 4x4. 3.5/6 Max Trac 2” spindles and adjustable struts. Moog 2wd upper and lower A-arms. Flip kit and lift hangers out back. Helper bags for towing. 22” factory RST wheels with stock size tires.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 6
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
eb9b9242d1a78c3b75ca1c107a96e031.jpg

17’ 6.2L 4x4. 3.5/6 Max Trac 2” spindles and adjustable struts. Moog 2wd upper and lower A-arms. Flip kit and lift hangers out back. Helper bags for towing. 22” factory RST wheels with stock size tires.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damn I like that, I didn’t like the RST wheels until I seen this!
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Lots of guys wonder about these but never pull the trigger well I installed these in a RCSB that is lowered 3/5 to soften up the factory rear leaf springs and the difference was almost nothing.These are very simple in design replacing the factory solid shackle with what is essentially a damper so any Silverado lifted, dropped, or even stock height with a factory shackle geometry should be able to benefit from these.That being said I have felt bigger differences in ride quality with simple $80 shock changes than I have with these $440 shackles.The only minor improvement is in very slow speed vibrations under 30mph.Anything over 30mph with uneven payment, bumps, or pot holes the difference is disappointing. Hopefully if your on the fence about these you will come across this and consider spending your money on something that will make a difference.Just my own findings you guys of course are welcome to purchase a set to see for yourselves

1.thumb.jpg.f759a7c61dc22db8d65e8f160bfa0602.jpg

2.thumb.jpg.129e8c22728dd1bed5a825cbd7394021.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Honestly, those are really more for 1ton and bigger trucks with stiff suspension. 1/2 ton trucks aren't heavy enough for them to do much good.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
Well, after much deliberation and mathematical equations using the formulas at the Viking website and Ridetech's coilover formulas I found out that our truck geometry calls for a 12" spring with 800 lbs/in for a 1" drop by spring... so, no wonder I am still bottoming out even running the coilovers at 17/15... I ordered some AFCO springs at 850 lb/in, and if the Vikings can't handle them I will buy Ridetech's coilovers and use the Vikings on the rear once I do the 4 link suspension. 
 
As a side note, I did ran the 10" math, and they suggest a 1000 lb/in, but this is with the OEM LCA. I had no idea the LCA had so much influence on the spring rate of a car. 


Any update on the AFCO springs? Thanks for the input on Atomic; I’ll definitely be hitting him up. I do some occasional towing, so the 850# 12” spring sounds ideal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
57 minutes ago, NoLand said:

 


Any update on the AFCO springs? Thanks for the input on Atomic; I’ll definitely be hitting him up. I do some occasional towing, so the 850# 12” spring sounds ideal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I ended up getting the springs from Ridetech as the AFCOs were sold out when I placed my order, they sell the HyperCo springs. 850# is the right size for this truck if you want a stiffer suspension like I do, that said, I am using them with my Vikings and with no preload I am sitting around 1/2" higher than with what I was running before. If you are running stock ride height, or just lowered with spindles, the 600-700# range will give a softer ride (much like the old Cadillacs which I hate). I ordered the coil-overs for the front from Ridetech as well and will be installing them soon, they are around 1/2" shorter than the Vikings which will bring my ride height back to what I had before the springs. They are a monotube and single valve design, so they should perform slightly different, but I don't foresee any issues because of it. 

Posted

Hi, any information would be appreciated. I have an '18 Sierra Crew Cab 2 wheel drive and I'm looking for the best way to lower the front end just 1". I have already installed 2" lowering shackles and pulled the block out in the rear. I installed a 2° shim at the same time and it rides smooth as glass. It's 1"higher in the rear but I believe it would sit much better if it is lowered in the front to still give it a bit of a rake. I'm going for a "what factory could have done" look.

Posted

I think mcgaughys has an adjustable strut spacer that you add or remove shims from to set the ride height, I'm not sure what the smallest drop setting is though. Otherwise, most of the stuff I've seen out there starts around 2" which is a really good look on a truck with a 2/4 drop.

For reference, here's a 2015 with a 2/4 drop on 22s30a105acc430e3f5adc8c590661b1110.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
8 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

I think mcgaughys has an adjustable strut spacer that you add or remove shims from to set the ride height, I'm not sure what the smallest drop setting is though. Otherwise, most of the stuff I've seen out there starts around 2" which is a really good look on a truck with a 2/4 drop.

For reference, here's a 2015 with a 2/4 drop on 22s30a105acc430e3f5adc8c590661b1110.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Thank you. I was trying to avoid changing the factory strut. in my research I guess a 2" lowering spindle and a lift spacer under the strut base is the easiest but wanted to see if the community has better ideas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,537 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...