Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

No offence these covers are junk! Had a backflip vp on mine for 2 years threw it in the trash and bought a tonno pro hard flip! Bed stays super dry now!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

2015 Silverado LTZ with a Diamondback HD Truck Bed Cover. Best tonneau cover. Will support up to 1400-1600lbs. Got it for a steal on Craigslist for 400.00.

 

20170817 142912 1

20170817 142858 1

Posted

Anyone like the gator roll up? For only 259.99 it seems like it would get the job done as far as keeping the bed fairly dry. Any other good priced roll ups out there? Weather tech seems like a stretch for 499.99 when it looks like the same quality as lesser priced options.

 

Thanks,

Posted

I have a 2014 LT Crew Cab with the short box, and I am a salesman who drives this truck all day every day for work. I keep samples and catalogs, a small toolbox and a plastic tub with a lid that has towels and jacks, trailer hitch, jumper cables, etc. I have a soft tonneau cover that came on the truck when I bought it used, I don't know the brand but it has a big bowtie in the middle towards the tailgate so maybe it's an OEM GM part?

This soft cover, coupled with a few commercial grade floor mats down in the bed I have from a previous job, and my bed stays really dry and it's great. I'd like to get a little more security, and it would be nice to have more room to move around without rolling back the cover, so I have been considering hard bed covers (low ones that sit right over the top of the bed), and tall ones that some people call camper shells or toppers (with windows and a high roof, level with the cab roof).

What do you guys think is the best option for what I use it for, bearing in mind I need accessibility and water-tight more than anything else. Security is a plus but not worth spending over $1,500~ (to me). I know this is a pretty standard price for a camper shell, I have looked around a little, but I would also like to know what everyone else may think might be a better option for me?

Also, what do you guys think about the bed seal kits? Does it make the bed really hard to clean? Is it really a good thing to do? How water-tight can you really get it, with the big gaps between the tailgate and the sides of the bed?

 

Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

Posted

I have a 2014 LT Crew Cab with the short box, and I am a salesman who drives this truck all day every day for work. I keep samples and catalogs, a small toolbox and a plastic tub with a lid that has towels and jacks, trailer hitch, jumper cables, etc. I have a soft tonneau cover that came on the truck when I bought it used, I don't know the brand but it has a big bowtie in the middle towards the tailgate so maybe it's an OEM GM part?

 

This soft cover, coupled with a few commercial grade floor mats down in the bed I have from a previous job, and my bed stays really dry and it's great. I'd like to get a little more security, and it would be nice to have more room to move around without rolling back the cover, so I have been considering hard bed covers (low ones that sit right over the top of the bed), and tall ones that some people call camper shells or toppers (with windows and a high roof, level with the cab roof).

 

What do you guys think is the best option for what I use it for, bearing in mind I need accessibility and water-tight more than anything else. Security is a plus but not worth spending over $1,500~ (to me). I know this is a pretty standard price for a camper shell, I have looked around a little, but I would also like to know what everyone else may think might be a better option for me?

 

Also, what do you guys think about the bed seal kits? Does it make the bed really hard to clean? Is it really a good thing to do? How water-tight can you really get it, with the big gaps between the tailgate and the sides of the bed?

 

Thanks in advance for any help or advice!

I have a tonno pro hard fold, looks and keeps the bed dry like a soft cover but, has an aluminum skin below the vinyl that keeps people from just cutting the cover with a knife.... Keeps the bed dry and it's cheap $500 or less if you find a deal. I don't like the bed seal kits myself, it makes it too hard to wash the bed out IMO.

  • Like 2
Posted

I have a tonno pro hard fold, looks and keeps the bed dry like a soft cover but, has an aluminum skin below the vinyl that keeps people from just cutting the cover with a knife.... Keeps the bed dry and it's cheap $500 or less if you find a deal. I don't like the bed seal kits myself, it makes it too hard to wash the bed out IMO.

I think I'm leaning towards a camper shell, any experience with those?

Posted

After reading all of these comments I installed a Bakflip G2 and love it. Got it from ebay for $550 shipped and feel like I got a steal. Looks great and pretty water proof. Put a bedrug under it and it looks awesome!

Posted

I think I'm leaning towards a camper shell, any experience with those?

 

Joe, the camper shells have some advantages, but 2 big disadvantages. If you do a lot of in town or city driving you're going to hate the visibility, blind spots galore. Also if you have to store much in the bed and unless you're young and spry, you'll soon hate having to crawl on the tailgate and then on your knees to move things around in the bed as obviously you can't load anything over the side of the bed anymore.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just picked up a Bakflip Revolver X2 & bed rug.  First new items for the new truck & will install it tomorrow morning.  Will post picks once done. 

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, jsapp2013 said:

I have a peragon for sale. I onky used it for 5 months before i sold the truck

Could you post pictures and PM me the price? how much water gets in? I live in Florida so we see year round rain.

Posted

I just bought 2017 Silverado with the factory bed bars.  I’m looking for a roll up cover that will fit with them installed on the truck.  

 

PLEASE HELP

FDFD5151-2C14-4FB1-92B8-B7087E48ED58.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...