Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
This is great news pgamboa, I followed all of your videos on the tow mirror swap (which I will contact you about after I complete my console :fingersx:) and with your thoroughness and attention to detail I am highly confident that your console PnP will be a success.
 
So when can I get one? :rolleyes:

I’ll have ordering instructions soon. Usually via PM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

Ok, it's on!! The passenger seat is unbolted and tilted into the back seat, the jump seat is out and the front ash tray panel is removed.

 

Being a mechanical guy this was all too easy.  I suspect removing the harness from the jump seat won't be too bad and that is next, but what I am really concerned about is the necessary wiring. I have a 2016 SLE but a bought a 2017 Chevy console with a charging lid. The first thing I find to be different from what is being described here by b18cx , pgambo and others is under my passenger seat I have this large connect and a usb, no 6 pin.

 

Can anyone tell me if this is similar to what they've encountered? 

 

Thank You,

Large Conn.JPG

USB.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted
The console kit comes with a harness. It is designed to plug into the IP harness behind where the ash tray would be. The plug in for the jump seat/short console plugs in below the seat. So clearly some rewiring would be necessary. The IP harnesses are different part numbers so it is unlikely that there is a plugin behind the IP if no full console is factory installed. I plan on adding a console to mine in a few weeks so I'll find out how all of this will work. I think all plugs could work except for some USB plugs. Cannot simply splice USB wire I don't think. USB with console has 2 separate plugins at the K74 Human Machine Interface Control Module.
Do you know were I can get information about the HMI (Human Machine Interface) USB ports?

Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk

Posted
8 hours ago, Roadglider said:

Ok, it's on!! The passenger seat is unbolted and tilted into the back seat, the jump seat is out and the front ash tray panel is removed.

 

Being a mechanical guy this was all too easy.  I suspect removing the harness from the jump seat won't be too bad and that is next, but what I am really concerned about is the necessary wiring. I have a 2016 SLE but a bought a 2017 Chevy console with a charging lid. The first thing I find to be different from what is being described here by b18cx , pgambo and others is under my passenger seat I have this large connect and a usb, no 6 pin.

 

Can anyone tell me if this is similar to what they've encountered? 

 

Thank You,

Large Conn.JPG

USB.JPG

This is correct.  This is the 16-Way X314 Connector and USB.  This is what feeds the jump seat.  What most have done is:

 

Remove the jump seat harness completely.  This will give you the mate connection to the X314 and USB Connections.  Reuse what can be reused from the jump seat harness into the console.  This includes the USB cable.  The 6-pin connection is what feeds the USB Hub.  This 6-pin has left/right audio signals for the 3.5" Aux port, commons, power and ground.  There is also an Aux detection signal there as well.  You should have enough connections from the Jump Seat harness to get (2) - 12V lighter plugs hot...  Again, this is by reusing the jump seat harness.  For the USB Hub, you can either get the inside console hub OR the front HUB.  You can get them all working but this requires some new USB cables if you want to get them all working (including the Glove box USB).

 

I am a few days of completing a Plug and Play harness for this.  So let me know where you at with this and if you are wanting to get this done this weekend.

7 hours ago, Eliot said:

Do you know were I can get information about the HMI (Human Machine Interface) USB ports?

Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk
 

The HMI has (2) available USB Ports.  A Green port (feeds the glove box USB) and a Black port.  The Black port is what is routed to under the passenger seat.  The USB hubs takes a Grey USB port cable.  If you have a 16/17 console, the front USB Hub should have 2 ports in the back.  This is an input and an output.  Input takes a grey cable, output takes a black cable.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:

This is correct.  This is the 16-Way X314 Connector and USB.  This is what feeds the jump seat.  What most have done is:

 

Remove the jump seat harness completely.  This will give you the mate connection to the X314 and USB Connections.  Reuse what can be reused from the jump seat harness into the console.  This includes the USB cable.  The 6-pin connection is what feeds the USB Hub.  This 6-pin has left/right audio signals for the 3.5" Aux port, commons, power and ground.  There is also an Aux detection signal there as well.  You should have enough connections from the Jump Seat harness to get (2) - 12V lighter plugs hot...  Again, this is by reusing the jump seat harness.  For the USB Hub, you can either get the inside console hub OR the front HUB.  You can get them all working but this requires some new USB cables if you want to get them all working (including the Glove box USB).

 

I am a few days of completing a Plug and Play harness for this.  So let me know where you at with this and if you are wanting to get this done this weekend.

The HMI has (2) available USB Ports.  A Green port (feeds the glove box USB) and a Black port.  The Black port is what is routed to under the passenger seat.  The USB hubs takes a Grey USB port cable.  If you have a 16/17 console, the front USB Hub should have 2 ports in the back.  This is an input and an output.  Input takes a grey cable, output takes a black cable.  

I need to get the truck back to driving condition asap and that just basically means the passenger seat reinstalled. However, I don't mind leaving the center console "loose" and taking it back out again.  Althought if possible, I'd like to skip the step of removing the passenger seat.

 

So, my plan this morning is to connect up the jump seat harness as you described and test fit the console and the additional front bracket (I'm not sure of the order of operation yet - bracket to con first or viceversa). With the console in, I'll test what I connected and then reinstall the passenger seat. From there I'll wait to see what you have to offer for a PnP harness. I too am not crazy about cutting harnesses up if there's alternative methods.

 

How long do you think to launch and do you have a ballpark cost?

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted
I need to get the truck back to driving condition asap and that just basically means the passenger seat reinstalled. However, I don't mind leaving the center console "loose" and taking it back out again.  Althought if possible, I'd like to skip the step of removing the passenger seat.
 
So, my plan this morning is to connect up the jump seat harness as you described and test fit the console and the additional front bracket (I'm not sure of the order of operation yet - bracket to con first or viceversa). With the console in, I'll test what I connected and then reinstall the passenger seat. From there I'll wait to see what you have to offer for a PnP harness. I too am not crazy about cutting harnesses up if there's alternative methods.
 
How long do you think to launch and do you have a ballpark cost?
 
Thanks!

Maybe a week. The harness I used in my truck was made specific to have tied to their appropriate circuits. The PnP version will have a couple of workarounds built into the harness so that no extra running of wires will be necessary.

The ONLY circuit I cannot integrate is the charging icon indicator.

Ballpark cost is ~$135.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 3
Posted

Another delay today. I oversized the wire gauge for the power and grounds into the connector. Also discovered that one of the terminals I’m using is not fitting exactly right. It “works” but I don’t feel comfortable releasing in this state.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • Sad 1
Posted
On 10/25/2017 at 8:16 PM, pgamboa said:

078b8ac1281de2e34e2352451ad7d1a8.jpg

Finally found some time! My Plug and Play Harness is complete. When I tested before putting the console in, everything worked.

After wrapping everything and installing the console, the 3.5” Aux port is the only thing not working. I made a last minute modification and this may be the reason the aux port is not working.

So tomorrow, I’ll take it out again and recheck. But I am ALMOST there!

Stay tuned!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wahoo!  I’m ready for this mod next!

Posted
3 hours ago, pgamboa said:


Maybe a week. The harness I used in my truck was made specific to have tied to their appropriate circuits. The PnP version will have a couple of workarounds built into the harness so that no extra running of wires will be necessary.

The ONLY circuit I cannot integrate is the charging icon indicator.

Ballpark cost is ~$135.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It sounds great and the icon is no big deal as most phones show on the screen that they are charging. 

 

When it's ready I am a guaranteed sale!!

 

Thanks!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, pgamboa said:

Another delay today. I oversized the wire gauge for the power and grounds into the connector. Also discovered that one of the terminals I’m using is not fitting exactly right. It “works” but I don’t feel comfortable releasing in this state.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Understood.

 

I trust you are going to continue development though and produce them... I'll wait as patiently as I can. :fingersx:

 

Meanwhile, I have mine in with the following functions: front 110v, two 12V and one USB. For now, this is just fine. We can drive and charge-up and I have the look and feel inside that I've always wanted. (I've been on the fence about buying one of these trucks for almost 2 years! Got this one in a hurry two weeks ago on a modest budget and in a hurry when another family vehicle got totaled)

 

Anyway, I'll be writing up the mechanical part as I did it in case others follow on. For now here it is installed this morning. Note the Chevy silver side pieces... I need to swap them to the wood grain... if anyone knows where to find those as individual parts - Thanks!

 

 

20171028_131608.jpg

Edited by Roadglider
...pic
  • Like 1
Posted

may sound a little crazy to you guys but would it be possible to swap out the center console for a jump seat? I have an ltz and would like to take out the center console and put in a jump seat but wasn't sure what all is left exposed under the center console once you take it out.

  • Like 1
Posted
32 minutes ago, Lambert999 said:

may sound a little crazy to you guys but would it be possible to swap out the center console for a jump seat? I have an ltz and would like to take out the center console and put in a jump seat but wasn't sure what all is left exposed under the center console once you take it out.

You'll have a bare spot in the middle floor board where the carpeting is not there. Easily covered with a weathertech floor mat. You'll also need the ashtray piece of the dash. Couple on here have done it, just go back a couple pages.

 

Shameless plug: I have a black leather jump seat available if you're interested and black ashtray piece. No scratches or marks. Roughly one month old. PM if interested

Posted
may sound a little crazy to you guys but would it be possible to swap out the center console for a jump seat? I have an ltz and would like to take out the center console and put in a jump seat but wasn't sure what all is left exposed under the center console once you take it out.
Me and marv just did that I trade him my jumpseat for his center console. There's a few dash peices you will need

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Posted
10 minutes ago, Hogtiming said:

You'll have a bare spot in the middle floor board where the carpeting is not there. Easily covered with a weathertech floor mat. You'll also need the ashtray piece of the dash. Couple on here have done it, just go back a couple pages.

 

Shameless plug: I have a black leather jump seat available if you're interested and black ashtray piece. No scratches or marks. Roughly one month old. PM if interested

the bare spot is what I was worried about I wasn't sure if there'd be carpet under the center console. I will get back to you on the jump seat not sure if I want to go through with it because of there being the bare spot lol

Posted
9 minutes ago, Lambert999 said:

the bare spot is what I was worried about I wasn't sure if there'd be carpet under the center console. I will get back to you on the jump seat not sure if I want to go through with it because of there being the bare spot lol

You can always check to be sure, but others have stated there being no carpet. Could be covered with a mat over the center hump though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sad thing is that this doesn't have to be the case. LSPI can be solved without a reduction in TBN. Swap Ca for Mg.  Cats are not a issue if the OEM can get a ring and valve guide seal even at SN levels of SAPS. Dizzy is purring like a kitten with a bowl of warm milk. 200K of Full SAPS oil and zero detonation issues and nice a clean inside and out. This shouldn't be an issue. It isn't 1920.    Tell ya what AMSOIL SS is excellent at, internal cleanliness. The new formula is even a step up from their already outstanding cleanliness levels. Can't say the OEM offering is quite that clean. There marketing suggest the SS is cleaner.     That is the only defense with at shelf oil. Nothing wrong with them if you ignore the marketing and OEM 'recommended' OCI and use a thimble full of common sense. 😉 You go sir. 
    • I started with a folding cover by BAK PAC on my 2500. It went bad after close to 5 years. Bent and vinyl coming loose. Contacted BAK and they gave me a very good discount on a Revolver. Had it a number of years. Mostly outdoor storage. Some garage storage. Vinyl started to come loose. Still under warranty so they replaced to cover. Sold the 2500, bought the 1500 and got another revolver for it. Had it a couple years now and no issues. I store it indoors. Got a bit of discount when buying it as well. If you are seeing problems, contact BAK or real truck and let them know. Customer service was pretty good. But I think they changed their warranty.
    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...