Jump to content

Center console swap?

quickvert1

By quickvert1
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

2017_whitez71 Enthusiast

2017_whitez71

Posted
Posted
21 minutes ago, JorgeGomez4462 said:

I try to slide it away but it seems to get stuck on something. Where should I press down for it to fully slide out? I was in there for a good 3 hours I feel dumb and still couldn't get it out. Thanks for your help!

Red clip only slides away about a quarter of an inch.  It will not come completely out.  Then you press down on the black tab and pull connector out.  I know sometimes it helps to push the connector down a little and then push the black tab in and then pull connector out.

 

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

darkfox1
darkfox1

OK.. mine's in.   Here's a writeup, cos I haven't seen one so far.   1. remove the "ash tray" and cig. ligther in your dash with 3 t-10 torx screws, and 2 clips. 2. Remove the radio trim, clips i

dla
dla

I always wanted a RCSB with buckets and a center console...   Received and installed mine yesterday. Very straight forward, thanks for all who posted instructions and part numbers.   Possibly to h

o7bodybagged
o7bodybagged

Finally the console is complete now ready for the install and see what other problems I run into

Posted Images

JorgeGomez4462 Enthusiast

JorgeGomez4462

Posted
Posted

What black tab? Pic? Sorry I'm just so frustrated but if you guys have done it I know you have experience. And the things I unplugged from the jumpseat, will they just plug into the console? Like a plug and play type of deal? Thanks!

markusarealuis Enthusiast

markusarealuis

Posted
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, JorgeGomez4462 said:

What black tab? Pic? Sorry I'm just so frustrated but if you guys have done it I know you have experience. And the things I unplugged from the jumpseat, will they just plug into the console? Like a plug and play type of deal? Thanks!

From what I understand it is not plug and play, you will need to create a wiring harness by using the jump seat harness and splicing into the console harness.  I am by no means an authority but these guys on here can give you the specifics.  Try reading through pages 74-76 and you will see the splice method.  I will be attempting this this weekend.  

 

I think the black tab they are referencing is directly in front of the read slide securement?  But I am not sure since I have yet to pull my jump seat out :).  Don't get frustrated you can do it bro!  Be patient and take a break when you feel like destroying the connector :).  

Edited by markusarealuis
TenofMe Enthusiast

TenofMe

Posted
Posted
On 10/15/2017 at 6:49 PM, Criscone said:

Finally did it! Everything works like a champ. $520 though but so worth it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does your charging lid charge, and does it show the indicator on the screen?

markusarealuis Enthusiast

markusarealuis

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, markusarealuis said:

From what I understand it is not plug and play, you will need to create a wiring harness by using the jump seat harness and splicing into the console harness.  I am by no means an authority but these guys on here can give you the specifics.  Try reading through pages 74-76 and you will see the splice method.  I will be attempting this this weekend.  

 

I think the black tab they are referencing is directly in front of the read slide securement?  But I am not sure since I have yet to pull my jump seat out :).  Don't get frustrated you can do it bro!  Be patient and take a break when you feel like destroying the connector :).  

I think this is the black tab they are referencing. 

Connector.PNG

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted
So I push down on that tab and it will slide out?


No, pull up on the red, then push in on the black tab. Anything with red tabs you pull them up first. It’s a safety lock essentially


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted
Does your charging lid charge, and does it show the indicator on the screen?



No idea, the iPhone X doesn’t come out until end of month so I’ll know then. Trying to find a friend with a wireless charging phone to test it before hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
JorgeGomez4462 Enthusiast

JorgeGomez4462

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys! I finally got my jumpseat out and installed my Center Console! A very special thanks to Pgamboa for all of the help. He basically did it all! Very helpful guy. Looks awesome and everything is working except the rear cig for people in the back and the 3 front USB but I was okay with those not working since I don't need all of those things to work. Thank you @pgamboa I couldn't of had done it without you! Thanks for your time and all of your help! This guy knows what he's doing.

Edited by JorgeGomez4462
moreyg1228 Enthusiast

moreyg1228

Posted
Posted

If someone is near Fort Myers, FL area that can do this, I'd pay you guys to do it for me when I'm ready to do it. I can definitely remove the current bench seat but when it comes to connectors and splicing, i'd rather not screw around with electrical 

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
If someone is near Fort Myers, FL area that can do this, I'd pay you guys to do it for me when I'm ready to do it. I can definitely remove the current bench seat but when it comes to connectors and splicing, i'd rather not screw around with electrical 

I am trying to figure out a harness that will be Plug and Play. I think I am almost there or will get it as close to Plug and Play as possible.

The issue is that I am finding (2) different connectors under the passenger seat... based on year and options.

I am hoping to get mine done like how the factory would have done it, but I have some ideas on how to make very close to PnP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
H-town Silver Bullet Enthusiast

H-town Silver Bullet

Posted
Posted

I am trying to figure out a harness that will be Plug and Play. I think I am almost there or will get it as close to Plug and Play as possible.

The issue is that I am finding (2) different connectors under the passenger seat... based on year and options.

I am hoping to get mine done like how the factory would have done it, but I have some ideas on how to make very close to PnP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds good...
I've had a console just sitting in my garage for months and have yet to start installing it. Was thinking of ripping out harness in jump seat and just taking the console to my local audio store that did all my radio upgrades for over the last 10 years.

I bought a plate that eliminates the usb up front and just has 2 12V and the 110 cutout. I use an adapter in my 12V so I can quick charge my Samsung. Plus, as long as usb in console works, I'm ok w that! (Never used the usb in jump seat)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
Sounds good...
I've had a console just sitting in my garage for months and have yet to start installing it. Was thinking of ripping out harness in jump seat and just taking the console to my local audio store that did all my radio upgrades for over the last 10 years.

I bought a plate that eliminates the usb up front and just has 2 12V and the 110 cutout. I use an adapter in my 12V so I can quick charge my Samsung. Plus, as long as usb in console works, I'm ok w that! (Never used the usb in jump seat)

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


If you remove the jump seat harness, you’ll find a USB Cable and a 6-Pin connector. It’ll look like this below.

This is all you need to get the USB Hub working. For the 12V Cig lighters, there will be (2) you’ll have from the jump seat harness. This can be used to feed any (2) plugs in the console. Under your AC controls... you’ll find the connections for the 110V outlet and another 12v Plug. Those can be used to feed the the front of the console.

The only thing remaining at that point is the front USB Receptacle and (1) 12V Plug left without a feed.

b3c752c276391c39a74187da3ee8d55b.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • parthery
      BAK MX4 EZ-Lift Install and Review

      By parthery · Posted

      I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • KARNUT
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Thanks not an answer 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      /facepalm
    • Chuck FB
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Same here, first I bought a few filters to get me going right after I bought my truck to do some short distance initial oil changes, then realized I could buy a case lot for less as they drop the price if filters or trans oil etc is bought by the un opened case lot as well as the discount for buying the vehicle there. So I have filters for a while but its good to know going forward, knowing to expect it to be a different part number and looking filter at the dealer and not be confused over it and think they are handing me the wrong part.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Winter Returned

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Saw Inglewood was in the National New last night for hail. Allot of hail. front end loader level hail. 😱

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...