Jump to content

Center console swap?


Recommended Posts

11 hours ago, pgamboa said:

If can see the backside of the triple USB receptacle (found on 2014/2015), I’m fairly certain the connection to get it working is the same as 2016/2017. On 2016/2017, the front USB is a Dual. It is a hub which is why the 6-pin connector underneath the USB is needed. On the Dual receptacles, the are (2) Mini USB A jacks on the backside. One of them is an Input (left side - takes the grey USB plug) and the other is an output (right side - takes a black USB plug). This black USB plug can then be routed to the Dual USB Receptacle w/ 3.5” aux port in the inside of the compartment. This is a daisy chained method.

 

Also allows you to keep the USB in the Glove box.

 

I am a few days from finalizing this... just waiting for the correct color USB cables. Once I retest everything, I’ll make up the 42-way connector and plug my jump seat harness into the from the console harness.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

If you could show me how to make this I would be your friend for life lol.....better still just let me drive up to Dallas and I could watch you install it on yours and then I could tackle mine with your supervision?  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow!!! That looks incredibly good!!  After reading this thread, I am pretty concerned about doing the wiring - "4 pin this, 6 pin that" splicing wires, brown USB connectors, I really am feeling overwhelmed....



I was super nervous as well to. But once I had both consoles next to each other/upside down, I removed the entire harness from jumpseat and laid it out on the new console. It all started coming together super easy. I’m no electrical wizard either.. the pictures posted made it super simple


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Criscone said:

 

 


I was super nervous as well to. But once I had both consoles next to each other/upside down, I removed the entire harness from jumpseat and laid it out on the new console. It all started coming together super easy. I’m no electrical wizard either.. the pictures posted made it super simple


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Okay, that is what I will do as well flip them both over and try and figure things out then....I really don't need the USBs to work in the front I do want all the things inside the console to work, and maybe the 12v outlets in front?  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, that is what I will do as well flip them both over and try and figure things out then....I really don't need the USBs to work in the front I do want all the things inside the console to work, and maybe the 12v outlets in front?  

Yep.. it’s not too bad. Once you have both harnesses out, it’ll make sense. The harness routes to the lid and getting in those cavities to remove it sucks. Getting the harnesses out is a pain and one of the driving reasons why I wanted to leverage the 42-pin connector that’s on the front of the Full Console. Using the jump seat harness, I’ll cut the opposite end off, install a 42-Pin mate connector and plug into the front the console connector. This way, I won’t have to remove the harness in the full console and it remains instant.

On the 12V plugs, there are 4 total. If you look at the either harness, you’ll see two large Violet/Yellow Strip. What most are doing is simply splicing 2 - 12V into each of those wires. I’ll take it a step further as the drawing shows the 4th Plug drawing power from its own circuit from the X51L Fuse Panel. When I’m done, it’ll be wired up just like it did if it came from factory... that’s the plan at least.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


Yep.. it’s not too bad. Once you have both harnesses out, it’ll make sense. The harness routes to the lid and getting in those cavities to remove it sucks. Getting the harnesses out is a pain and one of the driving reasons why I wanted to leverage the 42-pin connector that’s on the front of the Full Console. Using the jump seat harness, I’ll cut the opposite end off, install a 42-Pin mate connector and plug into the front the console connector. This way, I won’t have to remove the harness in the full console and it remains instant.

On the 12V plugs, there are 4 total. If you look at the either harness, you’ll see two large Violet/Yellow Strip. What most are doing is simply splicing 2 - 12V into each of those wires. I’ll take it a step further as the drawing shows the 4th Plug drawing power from its own circuit from the X51L Fuse Panel. When I’m done, it’ll be wired up just like it did if it came from factory... that’s the plan at least.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pgamboa, you really know your stuff.  I would love to do the plug and play method you are describing but I think that may be beyond my capabilities.  If I do it the splice method will I need to remove both wiring harnesses (jump seat wiring harness and new console wiring harness)  - to create one that will plug directly into the under the seat connector?  Also, where did you get the 42-pin female connector?  

Edited by markusarealuis
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, markusarealuis said:

Pgamboa, you really know your stuff.  I would love to do the plug and play method you are describing but I think that may be beyond my capabilities.  If I do it the splice method will I need to remove both wiring harnesses (jump seat wiring harness and new console wiring harness)  - to create one that will plug directly into the under the seat connector?  Also, where did you get the 42-pin female connector?  

You will need to completely remove the jump seat harness. You do not have to completely remove the console harness. You can unplug the items needed on the console and make the necessary changes and then plug it back in. I found some of the plugs hard to get to and then realized you don't have to unplug them to do the work. With your new console upside down and the jump seat harness laid next to it, it becomes pretty clear what needs to go where. With the write up and pics I did back on Page 74-76 its pretty straight forward. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pgamboa, you really know your stuff.  I would love to do the plug and play method you are describing but I think that may be beyond my capabilities.  If I do it the splice method will I need to remove both wiring harnesses (jump seat wiring harness and new console wiring harness)  - to create one that will plug directly into the under the seat connector?  Also, where did you get the 42-pin female connector?  

I got it from Mouser. It was one digit off in the part # from what I needed because the correct one is no where to be found. The difference in the connector is the “keying”. No biggie though. I was able to shave off portions of the connector to get it to fit. “Keying” is done so that you cannot Plug Connectors in the wrong spot.

I’ve got a wiring diagram made with pics to illustrate what I’m doing, a video to be made as well.

I also made a cross reference sheet of both connectors showing all the circuits on each. It’ll also show what circuits are present in each so that you’ll see what needs to be added. The good thing is that all the circuits in the jump seat harness ARE present in the Full Console Harness. So this will make for an easy “plug in” scenario.

What will be left at that point is landing the wireless charging lid circuit, compartment lamp circuit, wireless charge indicator circuit, and the last 12V circuit from their originations to the 42-way connector.

If I recall, they come from:

X51L Fuse Panel - Wireless Charging Lid
X51L Fuse Panel - (1) - 12V Plug
BCM - Wireless Lid Charging Indicator

I’m not home right now but will continue working on this over the next few days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, b18cx said:

You will need to completely remove the jump seat harness. You do not have to completely remove the console harness. You can unplug the items needed on the console and make the necessary changes and then plug it back in. I found some of the plugs hard to get to and then realized you don't have to unplug them to do the work. With your new console upside down and the jump seat harness laid next to it, it becomes pretty clear what needs to go where. With the write up and pics I did back on Page 74-76 its pretty straight forward. 

Thank you very much b18cx.  I will pull the jumb seat out this weekend and give it a shot as long as my front bracket comes in by then.  I will reread your posts on 74-76 again. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


I got it from Mouser. It was one digit off in the part # from what I needed because the correct one is no where to be found. The difference in the connector is the “keying”. No biggie though. I was able to shave off portions of the connector to get it to fit. “Keying” is done so that you cannot Plug Connectors in the wrong spot.

I’ve got a wiring diagram made with pics to illustrate what I’m doing, a video to be made as well.

I also made a cross reference sheet of both connectors showing all the circuits on each. It’ll also show what circuits are present in each so that you’ll see what needs to be added. The good thing is that all the circuits in the jump seat harness ARE present in the Full Console Harness. So this will make for an easy “plug in” scenario.

What will be left at that point is landing the wireless charging lid circuit, compartment lamp circuit, wireless charge indicator circuit, and the last 12V circuit from their originations to the 42-way connector.

If I recall, they come from:

X51L Fuse Panel - Wireless Charging Lid
X51L Fuse Panel - (1) - 12V Plug
BCM - Wireless Lid Charging Indicator

I’m not home right now but will continue working on this over the next few days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay thank you!  I will keep reading and try to eliminate any stupid questions I have.  I have to wait until the bracket comes in anyways before I begin the process.  You guys are a tremendous help!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know if this console swap can happen with an E-Assist model or if there is any difference between what’s under the E-assist model and a regular model?

It looks like I have some type of ventilation system underneath the jump seat.

I already can’t use intakes/intake tubes so I just want to make sure before I try this mod out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi! I have a 2017 Silverado LT that I bought about a month ago. I already have the floor console but can't seem to get one clip off from the jump seat. I have posted a picture. It looks like it has a red clip but have been trying to get it off for an hour. Is it an unplug and plug in to the console? Thanks!

image.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slide the red tab away. The push down on the black tab on top. These are sealed connectors (inner seal) so sometimes you have to work them out. But that red lock tab is extra assurance to prevent it from coming loose n


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.