Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I apologize if this have been covered, but after reading so many posts on the topic, I want to make sure I fully understand what is and is not functioning after the swap.

 

If I understand correctly:

 

  1. Everything inside the console fully functions with the connectors/harness that is used for the old jump seat console.
  2. Do the connectors/outlets on the back of the console function? If not, can they become operational with a modification?
  3. The front usb ports can be used for charging with a modification
  4. The front 12V outlets can be used, but require you to tap into a 12V source.
  5. Has anyone gotten the 110V outlet to function?

 

Thanks in advance for the help. I just purchased a 2014 Silverado 2LT 4x4 Friday, and this is one of few missing items I wish it had (but the price was too good to pass up).

 

Nick

Posted (edited)

I'm going to guess this all depends on what you start with. My truck (LT) came with the 110V plug in the dash down low next to the ash tray. I also had a cigarette plug there as well. Mine was as easy as just transferring these over to the new console. I doubled up the lighter plug by soldering another set from the left over harness. The other stuff in the jump seat convert over to the new console. You will also have to run power to the console light in the box. When all is said and done, the only thing not functional is the front 3 USB ports in the front of the console. You can run a couple cables and get power only for charging, but they do not seem to work for integration into the stereo. Hope this helps, good luck.

Edited by krdeal
Posted

Got mine done this weekend. Came out great. Thanks for all the contributors on this forum. I don't have USB functionality on the front 3. I did Bilsteins, Console swap, and Katzkins. It was a lot to take on in one sitting. I thought it would be easier to knock out the Katzkins and center console together. Looking back, it was enough work that I probably should have done the jobs separately. The console swap isn't bad, but combined with Bilsteins (3 hours) and Katzkins (12 hours), it was overwhelming.

 

As far as the console swap by itself, I followed the directions in this thread and had very little trouble. The wiring is easy, but you have to think, plan, make sure everything will fit, etc....Make sure you have a good soldering iron, shrink wrap, and wire strippers for 20 Gauge wire. Someone could write down a super detailed description about wire colors and exactly what to do, but it's mostly intuitive.

 

Basically completely remove all the tape and salvage the USB cable from the jump seat. Unplug the console USB and let in hang in place. Plug in jump seat USB in its place. This will plug in to the harness under the seat as it did before.

 

Cut 12-14 inches off the jump seat harness. Solder all similar colors. There will be two extra (purple and yellow 14 gauge I think) on the jump seat harness side and one on the console side for the light (20 gauge blue and red). Tape up the purple and yellow. They will not be used.

 

Salvage one cigarette lighter harness from the jump seat and cut with 8 inches of wire. Cut the ashtray cig plug where you have enough room to solder/splice it. Solder the additional cig lighter harness to the existing one along with the 20 gauge light wire. I think I had to extend the light wire with some salvage wire as well. Now, where there was originally one cig plug with full time power, you will now have 2 cig plugs and the console light in a three way splice.

 

This gets everything but the front USB's working. I ran out of parts, brain power, and patience to attempt this.

 

So inverter is plug and play. USB under lid is plug and play. Rear cig, under lid cig, audio are fixed with the soldering of the harness. Additional front cig and light are spliced into existing cig.

Posted

Does the center console have any room to run a duct to the rear?

Posted

I apologize if this have been covered, but after reading so many posts on the topic, I want to make sure I fully understand what is and is not functioning after the swap.

 

If I understand correctly:

 

1. Everything inside the console fully functions with the connectors/harness that is used for the old jump seat console.

 

Yes, except the light. And you have to completely swap the USB cable over (plug and play).

 

2. Do the connectors/outlets on the back of the console function? If not, can they become operational with a modification?

 

Swapping out (cutting the jump seat harness and replacing the console harness) the harness gets the back cig plug working just like the jump seat.

 

3. The front usb ports can be used for charging with a modification

 

Yes, I didn't do this though. Mine are dead.

 

4. The front 12V outlets can be used, but require you to tap into a 12V source.

 

One of them will plug right in. But the console has 2 where the current ashtray has 1. You have to splice power from the other one and steal the connector with 6-8 inches of wire off the jump seat one. Also, splice the console light in here as well.

 

5. Has anyone gotten the 110V outlet to function?

 

It is plug and play if you have the inverter currently. There are two tiny harness clips.

 

Thanks in advance for the help. I just purchased a 2014 Silverado 2LT 4x4 Friday, and this is one of few missing items I wish it had (but the price was too good to pass up).

 

Nick

Posted

For the number 4 y can run a wire with the correct terminal from left block fuse. (it have a fuse already installed and nothing connect to it) then this way you have 2 x 12v with 15 amp on each. You can also do the same with the rear socket in console (the one for rear seat) but need to run a wire from right block fuse. There is also a fuse with nothing connect to it

 

Left block fuse is always powered and right block fuse is R.A.P. (powered 10 min after key is removed or until driver door is open.

 

Light and usb for charging can be tap on the front 12v socket

 

 

Posted

Anyone do this without the bracket to the dashboard? Any issues?

 

The bracket is not available anywhere at this time with no availability date.

Posted

Hopefully, I will tackle this tonight, I finally got all the pieces in that I needed. Wish me luck!!

Posted (edited)

I always wanted a RCSB with buckets and a center console...

 

Received and installed mine yesterday. Very straight forward, thanks for all who posted instructions and part numbers.

 

Possibly to help others, here are the part numbers I used...

 

22995066 Console - Jet Black w/chrome handle (inside 2 USB, 1 SD card slot, aux jack, 1 12V outlet) (rear 1 12V outlet)

22995093 Plate - Synthesis (front 2 12V outlets, 3 USB) with cup holder

22817347 Panel - Black (right)

22817349 Panel - Black (left)

22776807 Bracket (was told by two suppliers this is no longer available from GM)

 

Installed without bracket to dash for now. Console is very solid with no movement or vibration at all.

 

I did not need to remove either of the seats.

 

Used the harness from my jump seat and spliced in console lead to rear 12V outlet.

Existing 12V in dash split for two front outlets with console light powered from these outlets as well.

 

Everything works except the front USB's.


Photos...

post-146293-0-53736700-1440032058_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-91927500-1440032064_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-03693100-1440032070_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-22170700-1440032077_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-70803300-1440032219_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-97898700-1440032223_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-84944600-1440032229_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-99373000-1440032234_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-53736700-1440032058_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-91927500-1440032064_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-03693100-1440032070_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-22170700-1440032077_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-70803300-1440032219_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-97898700-1440032223_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-84944600-1440032229_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-99373000-1440032234_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-53736700-1440032058_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-91927500-1440032064_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-03693100-1440032070_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-22170700-1440032077_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-70803300-1440032219_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-97898700-1440032223_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-84944600-1440032229_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-99373000-1440032234_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-53736700-1440032058_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-91927500-1440032064_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-03693100-1440032070_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-22170700-1440032077_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-70803300-1440032219_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-97898700-1440032223_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-84944600-1440032229_thumb.jpg

post-146293-0-99373000-1440032234_thumb.jpg

Edited by dla
  • Like 7
Posted

Help please, I did my install last night, everything went very good, and everything is working except my front usb, I did use the #4 and #6 wires to the front usb, by jumping power from the cig lighter, but it isn't charging, do I need another wire in this, or what am I missing?

Posted

For usb charging you need to have radio option io4,io5 or io6 (because they are the only option that have a HMI behind the lower glove box) then you need to plug a mini usb male inside the usb socket until the HMI with the other side of cable that it is also a mini usb male

This cable can be done with 2 cable (cut and sold them togheter)

Or be bought but the only place I found some was on ebay and hard to find

 

Hope this will help for usb charging. And don't forget you need a usb cable AND connecting also pin 4 and 6 to ground and Positif voltage

Posted

I completed the console swap today. Thanks to everyone who has posted in this thread for helping out. Everything is wired and functioning with the exception of the front USB ports. I will work on that soon.

 

I ended up using parts of the harness that came with the console to make it a cleaner install. That worked out perfectly.

 

The only issue that I ran into is that my console plate did not include the cupholder :nonod:. I bought most parts from GM Parts Direct, but bought the plate from eBay because a seller had a brand new one with the ports for $85 an it was the right color. I didn't realize it was supposed to include the cupholder. If I order one separately, it looks like they are $120. I'm not too happy about that.

 

Putting that aside, I really like it. It fits perfectly and looks fantastic.

Posted

Awesome guys how much does it cost ya'll to do the swap?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 930 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...