Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted


Everyone’s Suspension moves one side during backing up. Recommend strapping back liner or I’ve heard heat gun will do it too


Sent from above


Wahhhhh [emoji2962][emoji2962] I did not know that. Imma try the heat gun one of these days. Thank you!!!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
Thanks, TXGREEK.  Will look for something with a 0 offset.

Did you go with 275x60R20s?

 

My first was 275/60/20 they rubbed with 2.25” level. Second rub was with +18 offset. Switched to +1 offset and all was good with 285/60/20 but slight rub on felt, zip tied it. Now I’m lifted and running 295/60/20 with same +1 offset wheels, Good luck

 

 

Sent from above

Posted

Btw, 20” wheels will ride slightly rougher than 18’s. In addition, you can get tires cheaper for 18’s rather than 20’s “AND!” You can find C rated in a lot of 18” tires with 33” tires

 

 

Sent from above

 

Posted

True.  And if I'd married an ugly woman I wouldn't have to worry about any other man wanting her...but sometimes we just want what we want.  LOL.

Posted
True.  And if I'd married an ugly woman I wouldn't have to worry about any other man wanting her...but sometimes we just want what we want.  LOL.


Ummm, ok. You better go out and get yourself whatcha want then.


Sent from above
Posted
2 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Ummm, ok. You better go out and get yourself whatcha want then.


Sent from above

 

Guess I overspoke.  I'd love to have a 4 or 4.5 lift...but cannot afford it right now.  I don't like the component wear issues with the level kits that I keep hearing.  So...for right now, I wanted to go with a 275x60R20 AT.  Since I've got to buy new wheels, I just wanted some ideas on what offset to buy.  I've now heard -12 and +1.  I'm not like some of you guys that buy set after set until one works.  And I cannot find consistent info on searches.  

Posted
Guess I overspoke.  I'd love to have a 4 or 4.5 lift...but cannot afford it right now.  I don't like the component wear issues with the level kits that I keep hearing.  So...for right now, I wanted to go with a 275x60R20 AT.  Since I've got to buy new wheels, I just wanted some ideas on what offset to buy.  I've now heard -12 and +1.  I'm not like some of you guys that buy set after set until one works.  And I cannot find consistent info on searches.  


My experience with the tire sizes and wheel Offsets I mentioned was after being leveled. I have no idea what will work just stock. The good thing about shopping for tires is that most tire shops will let you do a fitment test so you can make sure the bigger size will clear. I’d be very careful on the route you’re going making sure you don’t spend anything without being 100% positive. I would not strictly take strangers advice, I’d test it myself. Make sure that if you’re going with a bigger tires that you turn them left and right and imagine if you’re bouncing from a speed bump that you don’t want to rip your fender off or damage it by not having enough room for travel. Good luck


Sent from above
Posted

285/60/20 with 2” Moto fab leveling kit. Very slight rub on felt. Zip tied it back all clear. 

5F75F50A-E273-49E8-9106-E637B6A2633F.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Sakison said:

285/60/20 with 2” Moto fab leveling kit. Very slight rub on felt. Zip tied it back all clear. 

5F75F50A-E273-49E8-9106-E637B6A2633F.jpeg

I like that stance.  

Posted

I was very pleased at how it turned out. Was going to try 305/55/20 but the tire shop said they wouldn’t fit. I think these are actually about right. They look wide enough too. Oh yeah. Toyo open country R/T

Posted

Havok h112 20x12 wheels with 305/50/20 toyo proxes. Cognito uca, mini NorCal mod, zone 1.5” leveling kit under the strut, bilstein 5100 set to stock settings no rub. 

A2A3546A-6930-4E85-9DDF-E8EB716E355F.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Finally replaced tires with Bridgestone’s A/T Revo 3’s in 275/65R18’s size and replaced the shocks with Bilsteins’ 5100 series. 

 

 

71808639-7059-4A64-9F3E-A03837EC89F1.jpeg

Edited by GerryLP
grammar
Posted (edited)

Was surprised the RTs got me out of this, still impressed by these tires. Running em at 30 PSI. Went to go get a doe down a turn road surrounding a flooded rice field that was pretty much rotten. It got sketchy at times.  I should've taken pictures of the ruts left behind, they looked like tractor ruts. This pic doesn't show it cause it was at the end on higher ground. Oh side note i need fender flares.

 

 

IMG_4246.thumb.JPG.e859bc187d3860ce993a680535627507.JPGIMG_4240.thumb.jpg.cd36f98584e771b4374d31ff38e9d8d5.jpg

Edited by 5RWill
  • Like 5
Posted
Was surprised the RTs got me out of this, still impressed by these tires. Running em at 30 PSI. Went to go get a doe down a turn road surrounding a flooded rice field that was pretty much rotten. It got sketchy at times.  I should've taken pictures of the ruts left behind, they looked like tractor ruts. This pic doesn't show it cause it was at the end on higher ground. Oh side note i need fender flares.
 
 
IMG_4246.thumb.JPG.e859bc187d3860ce993a680535627507.JPGIMG_4240.thumb.jpg.cd36f98584e771b4374d31ff38e9d8d5.jpg


What size tires and lift? Any clean pics, looks like a nice truck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Thanks 1
Posted
13 minutes ago, jgraves13 said:

 


What size tires and lift? Any clean pics, looks like a nice truck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Still what's in my sig. 295/70/17 and Bilstein 5100s at max ride height, so 1.8" or so. Have headers in storage waiting for warranty to expire, morimotos and Rigid lights that i've neglected for years i'm about to install. Wish i'd have gone ahead and upgraded to Bajakit's chase kit. New UCAs, Kings, and Deaver leafs would've been nice. Buddy of mine in my dental class likes to go on wheeling trips so might be doing that come our two week break in May.

 

5BEE9ACB-0401-4A9F-9AAC-C7D81237C0AC_zps

C5E2D92B-B05D-4240-9AC1-C583A878D29A_zps

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Very true.   However.  GM did give those trucks with the single speed case Terrain Mode.  Terrain Mode mimics 4LO minus the gear reduction and torque capability.  It uses the ABS/braking system to perform the operation.  It also gives these one pedal driving (sort of) when in Terrain Mode via the active brake during throttle lift.     Does it have its limitations over a true 2 speed case?  Sure.  But it works.         
    • Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...