Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Crazy this thread still is going strong. Guess my brother and I did good.

 

DBcooper this fits the 6.2 or the 5.3 and mine is on my 5.3 as well as my brothers.

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

 

 

FYI, If anyone has a 2015 and the 2 front studs are not there for using the cover, the GM part number for these studs are #16616691. You need 2. List for 4.10 each.

Anyone got a pic of the studs used for mounting this cover? Looks like a mod that I just have to do...

 

Took another look with a light and think I found them. I cut out the area of the pic where I think the studs are... (I can't find the software to use to mark in a photo that some use).

 

mounting%20studs.jpg

post-98478-0-92426200-1448250614_thumb.jpg

post-98478-0-92426200-1448250614_thumb.jpg

post-98478-0-92426200-1448250614_thumb.jpg

post-98478-0-92426200-1448250614_thumb.jpg

Edited by No Tyme
Posted

Any more information were the mounting studs goes ???? maybe some photo's showing the stud 's .

Posted

Any more information were the mounting studs goes ???? maybe some photo's showing the stud 's .

This is the above photo without the cut out locations showing the studs... Just compare the photo to the one above and you can see the black plastic studs, one on each side of the intake. Hope this helps.

 

coverstuds.jpg

Posted

Question for those of you who have painted this cover... I received mine today and it is scratched and has a couple of spots where the paint has been rubbed off. The seller is willing to credit me $10 but I am unsure of how to paint this item as it is plastic... Any problems with the paint melting being this sits on the top of the motor? What paint did you us? Clear coat???

Posted (edited)

Question for those of you who have painted this cover... I received mine today and it is scratched and has a couple of spots where the paint has been rubbed off. The seller is willing to credit me $10 but I am unsure of how to paint this item as it is plastic... Any problems with the paint melting being this sits on the top of the motor? What paint did you us? Clear coat???

I received mine the same way as you got yours.. I was upset. But since I was getting my handles painted I told my painter to paint the cover.. no issues what so ever. Looks like I just installed it. Mine was color matched to the code in my glove box

post-145646-0-51731200-1448343648_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-51731200-1448343648_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-51731200-1448343648_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-51731200-1448343648_thumb.jpg

Edited by Silver ice 6.2
  • Like 1
Posted

I received mine the same way as you got yours.. I was upset. But since I was getting my handles painted I told my painter to paint the cover.. no issues what so ever. Looks like I just installed it. Mine was color matched to the code in my glove box

I see. So your painter used the same paint as he use on the door handles. I wasn't sure if the heat under the hood would cause an issue. So far how is yours holding up? Looks great by the way!

Posted

Thank You for the photo's . where the best place to order from ? I'm thinking a red color for a black truck , what do you guys think ? Any information is helpful

Posted

I see. So your painter used the same paint as he use on the door handles. I wasn't sure if the heat under the hood would cause an issue. So far how is yours holding up? Looks great by the way!

If the hood and fenders can handle the paint temps than so can the cover. The cover does not get as hot as you would think.

 

 

Thank You for the photo's . where the best place to order from ? I'm thinking a red color for a black truck , what do you guys think ? Any information is helpful

I have a black truck and left it the stock silver the cover came in. Do what you like.

post-133203-0-01054700-1448374515_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-01054700-1448374515_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-01054700-1448374515_thumb.jpg

post-133203-0-01054700-1448374515_thumb.jpg

Posted

I see. So your painter used the same paint as he use on the door handles. I wasn't sure if the heat under the hood would cause an issue. So far how is yours holding up? Looks great by the way!

Done right painted parts under the hood will be just fine.
Posted

My Engine Cover showed up yesterday. I had just finished detailing the truck and slipped it on. Figure I'll leave the Cadi. emblem on for now. In the future maybe a BMW Roundel.

post-149169-0-87359100-1448455416_thumb.jpg

post-149169-0-87359100-1448455416_thumb.jpg

post-149169-0-87359100-1448455416_thumb.jpg

post-149169-0-87359100-1448455416_thumb.jpg

Posted

My Engine Cover showed up yesterday. I had just finished detailing the truck and slipped it on. Figure I'll leave the Cadi. emblem on for now. In the future maybe a BMW Roundel.

I shot mine today with Krylon... The cady emblem was the first to go for me... Waiting on my bowtie from AZ, went to CA, now in PA... WTF? Maybe it will find it's way home for Xmas...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...