Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm going to the dealer on Thursday to get it looked at. I will let you know what they say.

I took mine to the dealer previously, they couldn't reproduce it, as it only happens occasionally on my truck.

Posted

 

A shot of WD40 on each side of the pivot point should eliminate that, it worked for me.

Apparently Chevy is going to replace my pedal. They said they couldn't replicate the noise.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I hesitated to post this but figured I might as well as it's at least mildly related. I noticed today that the throttle response on my truck is very dependent on my foot placement on the gas pedal. I tend to keep my heel between the gas pedal and brake which lets me rotate the top of my foot between the gas pedal and brake. This basically means that I'm pushing on the bottom of the gas pedal. I happened to put my whole foot on the gas pedal in basically a vertical orientation and the throttle is much more responsive.

 

I've probably driven this way my whole life and never noticed that any of my cars were sensitive in this manner. My truck only has 400 miles on it but the throttle response has always seemed very slow unless I really pushed on the pedal. With my foot position adjusted, the throttle feels a lot more responsive. I feel a little goofy writing this but figured it couldn't hurt to throw it out there.

I have the same issue, I broke my ankle back in the day and the foot has a slight right turn to it, so I always have put my foot where you are describing, and have noticed the same thing you are talking about.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

My '15 (build date 3/10/15) w/ adjustable pedals has an amazing amount of flex when pushing the pedal down. I need to find a small piece of .250" thick rubber to try this with mine.

Posted

My '15 (build date 3/10/15) w/ adjustable pedals has an amazing amount of flex when pushing the pedal down. I need to find a small piece of .250" thick rubber to try this with mine.

 

Old big rig/dump truck mud flaps work GREAT for this. My buddy is a mechanic for the PA Turnpike and picked me up one. Cut off a nicer section of the flap for a 2"x1"x0.25" piece and it works great for fixing this.

  • Like 1
Posted

2016 owner here (10/15 build date) - looked at mine after reading this, mine looks completely different But I do have the adjustable pedals.

 

Anyways mine looks more like a plastic cage/box and seems pretty sturdy especially at the bottom bolt everyone is referencing to shim.

 

See attached picture, note bolt at bottom and depth of plastic box coming out around it, this appears to be a different design.

post-157367-0-77216700-1466648507_thumb.jpg

post-157367-0-77216700-1466648507_thumb.jpg

post-157367-0-77216700-1466648507_thumb.jpg

post-157367-0-77216700-1466648507_thumb.jpg

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Bumping this thread because there has been some discussion about lack of power with the 5.3 liter. I firmly believe that everyone should implement the fix found in this thread regarding the gas pedal bracket flexing. It made my trucks "throttle response" much better--it was never an issue with AFM or the engine/tranny, it was the gas pedal flexing!!

Posted

Bumping this thread because there has been some discussion about lack of power with the 5.3 liter. I firmly believe that everyone should implement the fix found in this thread regarding the gas pedal bracket flexing. It made my trucks "throttle response" much better--it was never an issue with AFM or the engine/tranny, it was the gas pedal flexing!!

You put the piece of rubber under the pedal or do something slightly different?

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

damn, noticed this thread and shoved a paint stick behind it. Still some flex but not as bad. Definitely noticed the difference.

 

Someone should take the plastic housing out and 3d print a new one. It's astonishing they found that amount of play acceptable. It looks like it was done intentionally!

Posted

I cut a section off an old round table leg. A disc of hardwood about 4cm across and 1cm deep. Inserted at base of the plastic bracket assembly, pushed up behind it. To give yourself room to push it in, pull OUT on the gas pedal. Insert your chosen shim (imo, hardwood is the perfect material). Then let go of the pedal. The bracket will fall back against your shim and the flex will be gone.

I didnt even have to secure my shim in place. It just sits up here behind the bracket. If you make it big enough, it just wedges itself in there and doesnt move. You cant see anything once its in either.

Posted

I have a 2016 regular cab, no adjustable pedal, had same issue. I loosened the 2 10 mm. nuts that was on cheap aluminum bracket & stuffed old rubber floormat under right corner, tightened it down, no wobble anymore. Have not driven it yet, have a 55 mile round trip to work tonight, am confident this will help, will let everyone know. Gas pedal should not flex on ANYTHING! , nor should brake or emergency brake pedals for that matter. Very cheap design, probably done on purpose for throttle response.

Posted

Well, after driving truck to work & back, fixing the pedal made a huge difference. Truck does not hesitate when initial accelerating. I highly recommend everyone to look at there pedal & modify it. You will notice a difference. Thank you FL335i for bringing this up to everyone, would have never known if it wasn't for your sharing of information!!!! :driving:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know when I was looking around last year to see if someone handled Amsoil gear oil to buy at the retail level which of course means full price. I found an independent shop that works a lot on GM/Duramax pickups and they did not bring in the 75W-85 as they just stuck to the 75W-90 for the front and rear as a standard practice for the HD trucks which makes sense anyway for the higher hp/torque diesel and pulling heavy loads in four wheel drive. I haven't changed my diff oils yet but still plan on using the 75W-85 for the front diff as I highly doubt I will be beating on the truck and figured for my use type the bit thinner oil would be to my benefit for the winter for that slightly less drag. Very different weather here all winter vs northern Washington near the coast, that's for sure. 
    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...