Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I don't care about adjustability. I like the rake my truck currently has. I just want a suspension setup that will mimick the ride qualities of a late 60's chevy truck. Even at the sacrifice of handling. These new trucks are just too firm/harsh for my liking.

 

 

Im in the same boat as you. I want the smoothest ride possible. Why is everyone taking the 6112 into consideration when it doesnt even exist yet? Or am i missing something?

I have owned several pickups and full sized cars over the past few decades and it has been my experience that tires make the greatest impact on ride "smoothness". Stock shocks with premium highway tires will provide greater comfort (IMO) than aftermarket shocks with any of the stock tires. However, if you want to use your truck for activities beyond those expected of a car then it is fair to expect a truck-like ride.

Posted

Im in the same boat as you. I want the smoothest ride possible. Why is everyone taking the 6112 into consideration when it doesnt even exist yet? Or am i missing something?

 

Because it's a new front coilover system that has great reviews from Toyota owners that have the product.

 

Also it's ~$650 for a pair where Fox/King are closer to $1000/pair. Helps you save some $$ when you're looking for new UCA's as well.

  • Like 1
Posted

The 6112 systems on the Toyota ride better than the 5100 do. It comes down to the tuned spring that comes with the 6112 as well as the overall size and dampening ability. If you keep it on the stock/lowest setting, expect a pretty smooth ride.

Posted

Out of curiosity, how much are you guys paying to have front 5100s installed? If you have a good spring compressor, I'd guess it would be pretty straight forward. I was wondering if putting money into a complete coilover with tophats installed might seem like a better deal if you don't have to pay to have them installed - the difference in purchase price is reduced if you count install labor for the shock or shocks and springs that don't arrive assembled.

Posted

I had mine installed last Friday. Paid $138 for installation. Also had 285/65r 18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers put on. I had roughly 3" of rake and now right around an inch. I'm pretty happy with the outcome, rides like a truck should now.

Posted

Because it's a new front coilover system that has great reviews from Toyota owners that have the product.

 

Also it's ~$650 for a pair where Fox/King are closer to $1000/pair. Helps you save some $$ when you're looking for new UCA's as well.

NOT out yet for the Silverado lol

  • Like 1
Posted

Because it's a new front coilover system that has great reviews from Toyota owners that have the product.

 

Also it's ~$650 for a pair where Fox/King are closer to $1000/pair. Helps you save some $$ when you're looking for new UCA's as well.

NOT out for the Silverado yet lol

  • Like 1
Posted

Because it's a new front coilover system that has great reviews from Toyota owners that have the product.

 

Also it's ~$650 for a pair where Fox/King are closer to $1000/pair. Helps you save some $$ when you're looking for new UCA's as well.

NOT out for the Silverado yet lol

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

NOT out for the Silverado yet lol

 

You're correct, that's why I said it has great reviews from Toyota owners, not Chevy owners.

 

But per MRT, it'll be out beginning of 2017 for Ford & GM.

 

Edited by ChevyRoofer
  • Like 1
Posted

I had mine installed last Friday. Paid $138 for installation. Also had 285/65r 18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers put on. I had roughly 3" of rake and now right around an inch. I'm pretty happy with the outcome, rides like a truck should now.

Any photos of your new setup?

Posted

Any photos of your new setup?

I'll see if I can get some uploaded after work today

Posted

I'm sure that this has been brought up somewhere in the last 45 pages lol, but has anyone had experience with changing the setting in the front down a notch? Is it a full tear apart job, or an easy swap? Since installing the shocks I have started up a business and my truck is now a work truck, put an aluminum contractor cap on (300lbs+) with about 3-500lbs of tools, ladders and wire in the back any given day. Currently it is set to the 3rd highest setting and I would like to drop to the second, or stock height. It sits level to lower than level in the rear without a significant amount of material in the back.

 

Also would there be any reason to think the shocks may wear prematurely or have any issues in general with having a load of 500lbs constant from now on? I assume not, either way not much I can or will do about it ha.

 

Thanks

  • Like 1
Posted

You can add rear helper springs or air bags...that will keep the back up and probably cost as much as paying someone to take the struts off, adjust them down, reinstall and realign.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I'm sure that this has been brought up somewhere in the last 45 pages lol, but has anyone had experience with changing the setting in the front down a notch? Is it a full tear apart job, or an easy swap? Since installing the shocks I have started up a business and my truck is now a work truck, put an aluminum contractor cap on (300lbs+) with about 3-500lbs of tools, ladders and wire in the back any given day. Currently it is set to the 3rd highest setting and I would like to drop to the second, or stock height. It sits level to lower than level in the rear without a significant amount of material in the back.

 

Also would there be any reason to think the shocks may wear prematurely or have any issues in general with having a load of 500lbs constant from now on? I assume not, either way not much I can or will do about it ha.

 

Thanks

 

That would be a full tear apart, gotta compress the spring and move that lower adjustable perch for the spring. Might be more effective to do the helper spring or bags like was already suggested unless you do it yourself.

Edited by jrob56
  • Like 2
Posted

post-163062-0-80363800-1475775906_thumb.jpg

This is with Bilstein 5100 at max height with 285/65r 18 on stock rims. Slight felt rub at full lockpost-163062-0-45806900-1475775933_thumb.jpg

Driveway is sloped down, still has roughly an inch of rake.post-163062-0-01110200-1475775965_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-80363800-1475775906_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-45806900-1475775933_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-01110200-1475775965_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-80363800-1475775906_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-45806900-1475775933_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-01110200-1475775965_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-80363800-1475775906_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-45806900-1475775933_thumb.jpg

post-163062-0-01110200-1475775965_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,221 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems.   True story. One winter day no long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses more gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...