Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So this evening I added 1/2" spacers on top of my existing 2" Bilstein level. Ride seems the same as before. I'm going to let the shocks settle back overnight before I take fender well measurements. I'm also going to schedule an appointment for an alignment this week.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

So here's the before and after, stock to now.

 

Stock Rancho Shocks:

* Front Left -- 35.75"

* Front Right -- 35.75"

* Rear Left -- 39.25"

* Rear Right -- 38.75"

 

And then, after Bilstein highest setting, a MotoFab 1/2" spacer on top of that, and 33" Toyo tires:

* Front Left -- 38.875"

* Front Right -- 38.875"

* Rear Left -- 39.5"

* Rear Right -- 39.5"

 

Very close to level, I'm pretty satisfied.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

4 wheel parts...it's not straight forward to find, but they did offer that deal.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

I tried that deal with them about 6 months ago or so placed an order got a call that the shocks wouldn't fit my truck. Hope it works for you as it didn't for me.

Posted

I tried that deal with them about 6 months ago or so placed an order got a call that the shocks wouldn't fit my truck. Hope it works for you as it didn't for me.

I'm driving on them, have been? Had no issues with them...

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

Tell me if this is a dumb idea. Could I get the 5100's for the front and the 5160's for the rear for the time being and then when the 6112's come out switch them? At least wouldn't be a total loss getting all 5100's around and have to buy a complete new set when I upgrade. Thanks!

Posted

I have a 2014 Chevy LTZ Double cab with 5100's front and rear. I was wondering how many miles people are getting on these shocks. Mine are at 60000 and they seem to be getting worn out. The ride is pretty hard (jolting) when going over bumps. It always sounds like something is loose in the suspension to me but I can't find it. There always seems to be something wrong with the suspension on this truck that I can never figure out. And it does vibrate at highway speeds.

Posted

Tell me if this is a dumb idea. Could I get the 5100's for the front and the 5160's for the rear for the time being and then when the 6112's come out switch them? At least wouldn't be a total loss getting all 5100's around and have to buy a complete new set when I upgrade. Thanks!

Good plan if they come out soon, if not nothing lost. I finally just bought 5100s, got tired of waiting. I ran across posts in 2014 of guys saying if you can hold out the 6112s will be out soon.

Posted

Good plan if they come out soon, if not nothing lost. I finally just bought 5100s, got tired of waiting. I ran across posts in 2014 of guys saying if you can hold out the 6112s will be out soon.

Dang 2014, I would have given up if I was waiting since then!

Posted

I'm hoping that the 6112's come out soon, itching to do something to my suspension but want to go with a milder approach then I have with previous builds.

Posted

So here's the before and after, stock to now.

 

Stock Rancho Shocks:

* Front Left -- 35.75"

* Front Right -- 35.75"

* Rear Left -- 39.25"

* Rear Right -- 38.75"

 

And then, after Bilstein highest setting, a MotoFab 1/2" spacer on top of that, and 33" Toyo tires:

* Front Left -- 38.875"

* Front Right -- 38.875"

* Rear Left -- 39.5"

* Rear Right -- 39.5"

 

Very close to level, I'm pretty satisfied.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

How did your CV and drive line angles work out with that?

Posted

 

How did your CV and drive line angles work out with that?

I'm 2WD. Upper ball joint is at a noticeable angle, but not near any extreme. I'd like to get new UCA's to correct that down the line. Probably just wait til these ball joints are tired and replace with new UCAs.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Just installed 5100's in all corners. I don't have a spring compressor so I had a local shop install the front's. When I got home I noticed this gap by the upper spring seat. Any suggestions on a way to rotate it into place without removing and compressing the spring? I'm sure it's probably unnecessary but I'm a little ocd and I know this will bother me until I fix it (next time I buy a compressor and do it myself from the start).

post-167364-0-41784100-1483591043_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-41784100-1483591043_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-41784100-1483591043_thumb.jpg

post-167364-0-41784100-1483591043_thumb.jpg

Posted

Just installed 5100's in all corners. I don't have a spring compressor so I had a local shop install the front's. When I got home I noticed this gap by the upper spring seat. Any suggestions on a way to rotate it into place without removing and compressing the spring? I'm sure it's probably unnecessary but I'm a little ocd and I know this will bother me until I fix it (next time I buy a compressor and do it myself from the start).

 

 

You can try to compress the springs with ratchet straps - generally unsafe but if you are not removing the top hat not much risk involved.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 628 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...