Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

BowHunter1 Enthusiast

BowHunter1

Posted
Posted

They return an email yesterday, took about twelve hours for the response. Here is what they said.

 

I can see that they just finished their batch and have 150 in stock as of today. Theres a chance yours has already shipped, checking with my rep to see if it has

 

Will let you know as soon as I hear back

 

Battle Born Offroad

www.BattleBornOffroad.net

M-F: 10AM-6PM

  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

After installing my 6112s on the highest setting, 5160s and 3/4" higher rear blocks, my '15 NHT measured  37.5" front and 40.25" rear from the ground to bottom of black fender trim. If I had known I'd still have plenty of rake without installing thicker rear blocks, I wouldn't have bothered. I still had 2" of rake. 

 

As others have mentioned, the ride difference on normal roads isn't drastic compared to stock, I do feel slightly more isolated from the bumps. I had a chance to go over some speed bumps and those are way better thankfully. I haven't had a chance to go off-road yet but the speed bump performance gives me hope. My truck has about 43k miles and all original shocks still seemed to be in good shape.

 

2BD783DC-5F2C-4B10-9E9B-6164D27611B5.thumb.jpeg.ad078ad9044620c1db70e53932c6ff9d.jpeg

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted

It doesn't look like it's 2 3/4" in the pic.

Try measuring from the fender to the bottom of the rim.

My 18 6.2 nht 4x4 has 6112 at max, 5100 rear and 1" shackle lift and is only 1" higher rear.

What was the rake before putting the shocks?

Is it 2wd?

Looks good though

Could always remove the block if you don't like it.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted
On 8/31/2019 at 3:28 PM, Red_5 said:

After installing my 6112s on the highest setting, 5160s and 3/4" higher rear blocks, my '15 NHT measured  37.5" front and 40.25" rear from the ground to bottom of black fender trim. If I had known I'd still have plenty of rake without installing thicker rear blocks, I wouldn't have bothered. I still had 2" of rake. 

 

As others have mentioned, the ride difference on normal roads isn't drastic compared to stock, I do feel slightly more isolated from the bumps. I had a chance to go over some speed bumps and those are way better thankfully. I haven't had a chance to go off-road yet but the speed bump performance gives me hope. My truck has about 43k miles and all original shocks still seemed to be in good shape.

 

2BD783DC-5F2C-4B10-9E9B-6164D27611B5.thumb.jpeg.ad078ad9044620c1db70e53932c6ff9d.jpeg

I don't even brake for speed bumps anymore...

My 6112's just laughs at them

  • Haha 1
Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Slash L86 said:

It doesn't look like it's 2 3/4" in the pic.

Try measuring from the fender to the bottom of the rim.

My 18 6.2 nht 4x4 has 6112 at max, 5100 rear and 1" shackle lift and is only 1" higher rear.

What was the rake before putting the shocks?

Is it 2wd?

Looks good though

Could always remove the block if you don't like it.

 

Unfortunately I don’t remember the before measurements. I just measured again from the middle of the “M” in the wheel emblem and rear measured 2.5” higher than the front.

 

Because I tow a fairly heavy trailer, I’m fine with the rake. Definitely not worth the effort to remove the taller blocks. I’m just surprised it isn’t closer to level.

 

My truck is a 4x4.

Yondu Enthusiast

Yondu

Posted
Posted
On 8/27/2019 at 10:35 PM, madsen203 said:

It’s true about the trade off. I’ve gotten used to the stiffer ride but overall, the handling has improved. The rear end is more planted and thus I have much less wheel spin/chirping when making a turn from a stop or on an off camber. 

 

Im happy with it but it is definitely more rough riding. I miss the smooth sailing over the tar strip and the like but when I hit a big bump or rough terrain while in a turn, I’m glad to have the 5100’s. 

 

Overall, I’d say it was worth it for what I was seeking. I bought a truck expecting a truck ride. If I wanted the caddy feel, I’d kept it stock. Maybe some progressive shocks vs digressive would be better for those who want a more comfortable, yet compliant ride.  

Stock definitely isn't a caddy ride.  

 

I bought a truck expecting a truck ride too. This is the firmest riding truck I've ever had though.  

 

17" Method NVs and 285/70r17s have been ordered.  Gittyup.  

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
On 9/1/2019 at 7:56 PM, Slash L86 said:

It doesn't look like it's 2 3/4" in the pic.

Try measuring from the fender to the bottom of the rim.

My 18 6.2 nht 4x4 has 6112 at max, 5100 rear and 1" shackle lift and is only 1" higher rear.

What was the rake before putting the shocks?

Is it 2wd?

Looks good though

Could always remove the block if you don't like it.

 

 

What's your measurement from the center of your wheels to the bottom of the fender liner front and rear? Center of the wheel measurement shouldn't be affected by wheel or tire sizes.

 

I don't have the instructions anymore but was wondering if it's possible the guy who assembled my 6112s compressed the springs too much with the nut on the top of the shock hat preloading the springs and reducing the front ride height. Just a thought.

dubwise Enthusiast

dubwise

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Red_5 said:

was wondering if it's possible the guy who assembled my 6112s compressed the springs too much with the nut on the top of the shock hat preloading the springs and reducing the front ride height. Just a thought.

Post up some pictures of how many of the snap ring grooves are showing on your shocks. That should let us know what height you are set at. 

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, dubwise said:

Post up some pictures of how many of the snap ring grooves are showing on your shocks. That should let us know what height you are set at. 

It’s definitely on the top position.

 

9845DC50-B2D7-47D7-BDA7-8B10789DCC01.jpeg

Edited by Red_5
dubwise Enthusiast

dubwise

Posted
Posted
54 minutes ago, Red_5 said:

It’s definitely on the top position.

 

9845DC50-B2D7-47D7-BDA7-8B10789DCC01.jpeg

Hmmm ya that definitely looks correct. Could it be somehow that your suspension is binding up? I see in the pic your suspension should be at full droop (assuming there is no jack under the LCA in pic) but it looks as though your UCA is not hitting the droop stop...? I looked at my spring p/n and its the exact same as yours.

 

For reference here's where I'm at with a 275/65R20 tire with Bilstein 6112s + 1/4 spacer (.5" lift & stock aluminum UCAs):

 

24" from fender to center hub.

39.75" from fender to ground.

  • Like 1
Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted
59 minutes ago, dubwise said:

Hmmm ya that definitely looks correct. Could it be somehow that your suspension is binding up? I see in the pic your suspension should be at full droop (assuming there is no jack under the LCA in pic) but it looks as though your UCA is not hitting the droop stop...? I looked at my spring p/n and its the exact same as yours.

 

For reference here's where I'm at with a 275/65R20 tire with Bilstein 6112s + 1/4 spacer (.5" lift & stock aluminum UCAs):

 

24" from fender to center hub.

39.75" from fender to ground.

There's something strange going on and I might have to do some research before digging in. My passenger side front is just over 23" from center of wheel to the bottom of the trim and the rear is 24.5" so less than 1.5" difference. Driver's rear is 25.25" and front is roughly 22.75", maybe closer to 23" but still under. Passenger side has the front to rear height difference I had expected. I was under the truck looking at the rears to see why there might be 3/4" difference from side to side but I don't see anything. Blocks have the thicker parts to the rear on both sides. No visible gaps meaning something wasn't put together right. The nuts on the front shock shafts both look to have a very similar amount of thread showing but I was having a hard time getting close enough to get a good measurement with them in the engine bay.

 

 

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, Red_5 said:

There's something strange going on and I might have to do some research before digging in. My passenger side front is just over 23" from center of wheel to the bottom of the trim and the rear is 24.5" so less than 1.5" difference. Driver's rear is 25.25" and front is roughly 22.75", maybe closer to 23" but still under. Passenger side has the front to rear height difference I had expected. I was under the truck looking at the rears to see why there might be 3/4" difference from side to side but I don't see anything. Blocks have the thicker parts to the rear on both sides. No visible gaps meaning something wasn't put together right. The nuts on the front shock shafts both look to have a very similar amount of thread showing but I was having a hard time getting close enough to get a good measurement with them in the engine bay.

 

 

3/4 rear variance could just be uneven surface?

I'm check my measurements tomorrow when I get back in town.

Could 1 leaf spring already be weakening or got a bad rear shock?

I'll also measure front coils and post as well. 

Doubt they could have been over compressed. 

I do know someone (Mexican homie) that intentionally took a torch and heated his s10 blazer coils back in the day cause low riders in SoCal was the thing to do. Needless to say I was told it rode like shit.

How's the rebound jumping on each side of rear bumper? 

Edited by Slash L86
Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

I haven't done anything else to figure out my odd measurements but after doing more driving, I think the ride is getting even better. I noticed that my body subconsciously tenses up when it knows I'm about to drive over bumps that I hit everyday and the hits just don't seem as bad as they once did. I still have less than 200 miles on the 6112/5160 setup and I'm more pleased everyday.

 

I think I read somewhere that the 6112 springs were softer than the OEM springs and I believe it. The truck does seem to lean slightly more in turns but it isn't bad. The truck now rides like I think a 4x4 truck that had a nearly $60k MSRP should ride. Money well spent. 

  • Like 1
slide187 Enthusiast

slide187

Posted
Posted

When I did all of mine with bilstein 5100’s i did notice that the drivers side measured very slightly lower than the passenger side. But in talking 1/8”-1/4” difference but I thought that typically has to do with a full fuel tank. As it’s less or not noticeable when she’s close to empty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,367 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • chfkief
      FS: Black Bear Performance AutoCal Tuning System

      By chfkief · Posted

      Do you still have?
    • 3CarSeatDad
      High Country Suburban build confirmation

      By 3CarSeatDad · Posted

      Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • revmanii
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By revmanii · Posted

      Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Core-Lokt
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...