Jump to content

Do you change your oil yourself?


Recommended Posts

Posted

If its under warranty, the dealer does all maintenance. I do this because it keeps the dealer and/or manufacturer from being able to use the "maintenance related failure, no warranty for you!" card. Once the warranty expires, then its all on me.

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 95
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I changed mine for the first time a few weeks ago. It was very easy, excapt I was not expecting how far the oil would shoot out of the drain and I got some on my driveway. Oh well, that is why I should have had more cardbaord underneath. It cleaned up easy enough.

 

I have never in my life paid for an oil change - always have done it myself. Never used a torque wrench or fancy plug - just common sense. Tighten it enough but dont over tighten and strip it or crack it. Hand tighten only on the filter and lube the gasket with some oil before seating it. The Fram ones with the grippy stuff make sure you can get it on good and tight by hand.

 

I took the free oil changes, but to change the oil in this truck with synthetic would probably run $100. I bought several of the 5-qt Mobil 1 jugs when they were running the rebate checks. Paid something like $12 for 5-qts.

 

I have been meaning to ask about the grease zerks. Are the tie rods the only place that gets greased?

Posted

I almost always do my own unless the weather sucks when i need it done. I'll be using my 4 free ones first, then switching up to my own schedule. I generally do it at 5-6000km, but with the larger capacity (8L) will be doing it at 10,000km, or the oil life monitor, or 6 months - whichever is sooner. Never hurts to get under the vehicle a couple times a year at least to see whats what.

Posted

I used to do my own oil changes but with quicklube places and stuff all over I have not in about 10 years. Not that I can't or don't want to. I just figure for the mess and getting rid of the used oil its worth my 29.99 to have someone else deal with that. I watch them like a hawk though and never let them try to upsell me.

 

 

 

If its under warranty, the dealer does all maintenance. I do this because it keeps the dealer and/or manufacturer from being able to use the "maintenance related failure, no warranty for you!" card. Once the warranty expires, then its all on me.

 

It is always nice to throw them the business to if they treated you well too. I like my dealership and have a good relationship with them so even bring in doughnuts for sales, service & parts departments when I go, hey I just got a free service why not. Sometimes $25 in doughnuts will buy a lot more good will down the road.

Posted

 

I have been meaning to ask about the grease zerks. Are the tie rods the only place that gets greased?

Yes the tie rod ends are all that you can grease. I find a lot of dealers don't grease them either... just like how they only hit the easy ones on the front ends that were fully greased. I didn't do the "free changes"... going to town for them to make a mess of my truck is a lot larger inconvenience than the 15 minutes it takes me in my shop to do it...

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

When you use the quick oil change places, after its done, make sure you crank the engine, then let it sit for a minute BEFORE you let them show you the oil level on the dipstick. That way the filter is full and not empty when they check the oil level in the pan.

 

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

Posted

if so do you:

 

1) Use the original drain plug?

2) Use a magnetic drain plug?

3) Use a Fumoto easy drain plug?

4) Use a ez-drain drain plug?

 

 

For years I used a magnetic drain plug. But I heard of items 3 and 4 and thought I might give them a try.

 

What say you?

I use the EZ drain valve with the 90 degree fitting. Have had no issues at all over the past 25k miles with it. I will definitely buy them for all my cars in the future. Sure it drains slightly slower, but there is zero mess and no tools needed. I just open the valve and go do other stuff in the garage or inside for a little bit.

Posted

See no real need for changing the factory drain plug. I buy the filter (Wix) and M1 at wally world and have my local small oil change place do the work. $20.00 for the labor and oil disposal. See no real need for me to crawl around under there. However I do want to make sure the M1 and good filter are used so this is my system.

How long are you guys going on oil changes? Do you think the DIC does a good job of gauging the interval? Got 1500 miles here and oil change counter is at 79% which if my math is correct (1500 divided by 21% = 71.43 miles per percent x 100 percent equals 7143 miles) means it will be at zero at approx 7000 miles. I have done a very large amount of remote start and city driving "stop and go" plus pulling my trailer so I guess the silly thing figures all that into its equation? Check out these pics. This 6.2 with 8spd is a real gas miser I can hardly believe how good it is!

Posted

I change the oil on my truck every 5k miles. I use the factory filter and mobile 1 oil. I would also change it once a year if I didn't drive enough miles a year for the light to come on.

Posted

.

How long are you guys going on oil changes? Do you think the DIC does a good job of gauging the interval?

The beauty of the OLM is that the change interval will vary with how you are using the truck.

 

I usually do it at the first convenient time after it gets below 20%.

Posted

Thanks for the input. I may go ahead and do the first oil change around 5000 miles. What do you guys like for the oil filter? I read an article somewhere that said some aftermarket filters do not contain the proper check valve inside the filter and could damage your engine?

Posted

 

Call me ridiculous but I like to change my oil as much as possible, every 6 months even if not at mileage.

 

Anyone else do this?

 

No, not ridiculous........I do mine even sooner sometimes, all depends on what type of driving I do, lots of stop and go or not getting up to temp gets done sooner. I've drained and looked at the oil under those conditions, yikes!

Posted

 

Call me ridiculous but I like to change my oil as much as possible, every 6 months even if not at mileage.

 

Anyone else do this?

 

And just think.... my OLM hit 0% a little while ago and what did i do? Reset it and keep driving.... oh the humanity! Lol. I run expensive synthetic in this bucket and I have tracked every single oil change from infancy with analysis..... i'm not worried about my oil too much.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...