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Do you change your oil yourself?


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Posted

I seen where some one cut a slit on the treads to allow for the oil to drian all the way out

This or cross drill the threads...

 

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Posted

i just ordered a Fumoto F107N and a Adapter from ebay, thanks for the idea, i would have never know about them if it weren't for this post,

Anyone know if we have to have the adapter for our trucks?

Posted

What's the big deal about an oil change or the stupid plug used? Been changing oil for almost 50 years and have the confidence to know exactly what is in the crankcase and that the plug is properly torqued which is more than can be said going to the dealer or a quickie-change place..

 

And the dealer can keep the 4 free oil changes with Dexos blend, went to full synthetic at 1K, even threw back dealer's offer of 4 free filters because all they stock are those plastic core "E"s. No appointment necessary, I change mine when I want with the oil and filter I want. Gloves on, drive up the ramps and drop the oil, the filter (double checking the gasket has been removed) into the pan....plenty of room to operate and not a drop remains in the pan.........plug and new filter torqued in and 8 qts., new Mobil 1 down the filler.....start engine, back off ramps. Pour oil back into original containers, throw out gloves and drop off at Auto Zone. Less than 20 minutes start to finish.

 

Red tape band around the 15mm box wrench makes it easy to find and a spare drain plug always at the ready in case original misplaced or dropped in oil to be retrieved later with a magnet.

Posted

Don't forget to grease your outer tie rod ends... cause most dealers seem too lol.

 

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Posted

My wife's and my DD are traded before warranties are up. Hyundais with 10 years 100k warranties. I have been buying at the same dealer for 20 years, Hyundai's and GMC dealer, they earned my trust, for the money not worth the hassle. Our toys l do myself one a year, Mobil one.

Posted

Glad I saw this thread. I've never heard of the Fumoto valve, but find it interesting. If I can pick one up for $25 or less, I may do it.

Posted

OEM plug.

 

Change my own, always have. Not just cost but my choice of products, done right, no waiting, driving. Use a 5 gallon bucket for old oil with a screw cap and spout that had hydraulic oil in it, won't tip over.

 

Take a funnel and zip tie a straw to the inside from top to out the bottom of the funnel to stop gurgling. No gurgling when emptying old oil or filling crankcase from 5 quart containers.

 

Use a plastic desk pad for all fluid changes, spills wipe up easy.

 

Super Power cleaner for spills when needed. :happysad:

 

Posted

Don't forget to grease your outer tie rod ends... cause most dealers seem too lol.

 

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The zerks usually don't get touched until the first 3K oil change and I can examine the boots to gauge the rate of usage. And that's another area where you don't want a quickie fill artist with an air powered grease gun to burst the boots or slop grease near the front rotors.

Posted

The tie rods are also sent out dry. .. or mine were. They would have the assembly grease like when you buy a new one but that's it. Maintenance isn't rocket science.. well apparently to some people it is lol. Grease will leak over time.. it really doesn't matter lol. Be more concerned that the kid in the lube bay greases your bleeder screws lol.

 

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Posted

Can anyone recommend a torque wrench that can be used to accurately torque a drain plug to 18 ft/lbs? My wrench won't go that low, and I believe you don't want the required torque at the bottom end of the scale of your wrench to get an accurate reading. I've been looking around but haven't found one that 18 ft./lbs would be in the middle of the scale. But then, I'm probably not good at finding stuff, or so says my wife.

Posted

Can anyone recommend a torque wrench that can be used to accurately torque a drain plug to 18 ft/lbs? My wrench won't go that low, and I believe you don't want the required torque at the bottom end of the scale of your wrench to get an accurate reading. I've been looking around but haven't found one that 18 ft./lbs would be in the middle of the scale. But then, I'm probably not good at finding stuff, or so says my wife.

 

I've always just did it by feel. I turn it until it's not turning anymore and then give a little bit extra TQ to make sure it's tight. It tightens it without over tightening it. Never had a problem having the oil plug leaking rather from not being tight enough, working itself loose from one change to another or wearing down the o-ring.

Posted

I used to change my oil but, My truck has free oil changes for now, once that runs out I dunno what I'll do, depends on what offers they have, unless I can save like $30-40 I can't justify DIYing it. My wifes Mazda 6, the dealer always has $39.99 full synthetic oil change coupons. I can't really buy the oil and filter for much less than that on sale. I figure it's under warranty, the dealer does all the service, if there is a problem I figure you can say well dealer you sold it and maintained it, fix it.

Posted

I run full synthetic. Most of the oil change places including the dealer that offer specials are only good for up to 5qts on the refill, they hammer you for the surcharge on the extra 3qts. Seeing how my dealer used a pneumatic wrench and overtightened the oil filter on the last free change, i quit going there. Wally World has either Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum on sale whenever i need it. It takes me 30 min to do my own oil change.

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