Jump to content

Weight capacity of 20 inch Denali HD wheels


Recommended Posts

Posted

I currently have a 2015 Ford F 350 King Ranch with 20 inch wheels and 3750 tire rating. I carry a truck camper that uses most of that tire rating. I am looking to get a 2016 Denali 3500SRW. I know they only come with 18 inch wheels. Was looking to get the Denali 20 inch wheels and put the same 275 Michelin tires that are on my ford. Was wondering if anybody knew the 20 inch Denali wheels are up to the task. In short, looking for a load rating on those wheels. Thanks in advance!

 

Hank

Posted

I'm not positive on any numbers but I imagine it'll be fine since they are forged like the 18's on the 3500 srw. I did the same thing on my 3500, I'm just waiting on my 275 65 r20 Duratracs. The reason the 3500's come with 18's to my understanding is because its easier to get 10 ply load range E tires in a 265, where as the 3/4 tons only require an 8 ply tire. Hope this helps! 71159da064e4df00a3cfe0f88639a9f3.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

I currently have a 2015 Ford F 350 King Ranch with 20 inch wheels and 3750 tire rating. I carry a truck camper that uses most of that tire rating. I am looking to get a 2016 Denali 3500SRW. I know they only come with 18 inch wheels. Was looking to get the Denali 20 inch wheels and put the same 275 Michelin tires that are on my ford. Was wondering if anybody knew the 20 inch Denali wheels are up to the task. In short, looking for a load rating on those wheels. Thanks in advance!

 

Hank

 

Lower load rating with the 20" wheels than the 18" wheels. Load index for the stock size LT265/70/18 Michelin LTX A/T2 tires is 124. That equates to the tire having a load rating in lbs. of 3580lbs. The 20" wheel/tire combo uses a Goodyear Wrangler SRA LT265/60/20, load rating of 121, 3267lbs. 3500HD run the 18" because of higher load capacities provided by the tire/wheel combo.

 

I'm not positive on any numbers but I imagine it'll be fine since they are forged like the 18's on the 3500 srw. I did the same thing on my 3500, I'm just waiting on my 275 65 r20 Duratracs. The reason the 3500's come with 18's to my understanding is because its easier to get 10 ply load range E tires in a 265, where as the 3/4 tons only require an 8 ply tire. Hope this helps!

 

 

2500HD are 10 ply as well. See above.

Posted

 

Lower load rating with the 20" wheels than the 18" wheels. Load index for the stock size LT265/70/18 Michelin LTX A/T2 tires is 124. That equates to the tire having a load rating in lbs. of 3580lbs. The 20" wheel/tire combo uses a Goodyear Wrangler SRA LT265/60/20, load rating of 121, 3267lbs. 3500HD run the 18" because of higher load capacities provided by the tire/wheel combo.

 

 

2500HD are 10 ply as well. See above.

That's essentially what I was getting at, and I know when I bought my 2012 Cummins it had 8 ply tires on a 17" rims when I drove it off the lot. I guess I just assumed that held true for these trucks on 3/4 tons. Alot of 275 65 R20's are loadrated up to 3750lbs a tire, or a 126 load index; essentially why I'm upgrading my tires to that size.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

if you can get a dually,,, You will NEVER look back !

Posted

Got my 275 65 R20's on today, big improvement! And load rated higher then the SRA's that came on the factory 18's. Didn't even have to crank the bars to fit them and they don't rub at all! :thumbsup:43ffdbfbace833756b29d6b04e04696c.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Posted

Yep, GM takes the easy way out, the load rating on the 18in. TIRES is higher since GM uses junk SR-A tires, simply putting quality tires on the 20's will get you where you need to be.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I know; crap pictures.   Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit.   I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away.   In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations. 
    • You don't want to become predictable now, do you? 😏
    • Fully warm, coolant temp >194, closed loop.   Run time can be anywhere from just reached operating temperature to having driven 30+ miles.   The O2 chart (which is a feature I just discovered after reading) for the bad idle seems to be "most" of the time. For the little time I've been watching it (scanning and driving! watchout!) I can't seem to isolate any cause or condition yet.   It definitely idles rougher sometimes than others and so far what I've seen is the rougher idles are always rich. But not enough to set a CEL.   In other news I replaced the starter solenoid. Everything on this truck is such a PITA. Starter "snout" is mangled up with the torque converter inspection cover which is tangled up with hard cooling lines and the driveshaft. But I got 'er done without too much swearing...I just go into everything now knowing it's going to be a frustrating mess.   The starter solenoid replacement kicks off the next round of work: AC, injector rebuild, cat, exhaust. I'm just going to do it all. But first:   I don't know what my fuel pressures are. I can't definitively say the issue is the injector without first verifying fuel pressures and any leakdown. I "rented" a test kit ($199.99 at O'Really's ...intentional misspelling). They don't "rent" tools anymore, they charge you for the tool and then you return it when you're done. No joke. It is listed as a rental on the receipt but the guy told me there's no difference between renting and buying  now, you just return it when you're done and they refund the credit card. Mmmkay, whatever.   I will rule out fuel pressure issues (too much), and any leaking (that's how I'll know the problem is inside the intake). I think someone said the return line could be plugged or not flowing and that could cause high fuel pressure (and too much fuel being pushed through injectors). I'll cross that bridge if I get high readings.   As of now I'm ready to tear off the intake cover, extract the injector, and have it sent off to be rebuilt just so I can rule that out.
    • What are the conditions of this rich idle? Warm or cold engine? Run time? Does every idle look like this or only sometimes?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...