Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

After getting my condenser replaced under warranty back in 2017 for the bad seam weld, the issue has return in the same exact spot.  My dealer has been great to work with over the life of my vehicle but their hands are tied in getting any of this repaired outside of my warranty (79,9xx).  At their suggestion, I called GM Corp and was assigned a Case ID but the rep basically said that wouldn't be helping me. This seems absolutely unacceptable that I'm expected to cover the $927 repair on a part that they've known to have issues. 

 

Anyone have luck getting a 2nd condenser replacement covered?

 

IMG_2712.HEIC

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Vehicle has now been in Dealer Service Department three days for the second time; unable to detect an obvious leak.  Service Department contacted GM Engineering today and confirmed there have been condenser issues. Condenser ordered and to be replaced, hopefully by end of the week. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

'16 Silverado LTZ with 92k and the condenser finally fully failed.  I have recharged the system several times and saw this coming, however...

 

... local dealer is asking $1650 for the repair!!!  2nd opinion dealer came in at $1350.  As mentioned on here, the although doing the work yourself is a PIA, isn't it worth the savings?  4-500 for parts, seals, gaskets, 3rd party re-charge and done.  Plus, if a man were to shell out $1350 for the GM repair, there is not much insurance that this shitty condenser won't fail again given the commonality of the problem across all trucks from this era.

 

Am I crazy?

Edited by dp454so
Posted

Condenser just failed on me on the same spot weld. 2014 88k miles, purchased new in Nov 2013. Only issue I've had.  Looking for options on DIY.

Posted
1 hour ago, DCazares said:

Condenser just failed on me on the same spot weld. 2014 88k miles, purchased new in Nov 2013. Only issue I've had.  Looking for options on DIY.

I thought about the same.  I DID end up finding non-GM shops to give quotes in the $745-810 range.  Insane compared to the GM shops.  This entire issue is disappointing from GM.  I don't have the time/tools to tackle this now but researched it a little.  There are some videos on YouTube that show this getting done by DIY'ers.

 

parts:  https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/v-2016-chevrolet-silverado-1500--ltz--6-2l-v8-gas/hvac--evaporator-and-heater-components

 

Good luck and keep us updated if you do it yourself.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just received a Murray condenser I ordered. I thought it would have the full seam weld but it's the same as oem. Should I return it and look for a full seam weld for peace of mind?

  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

Mine just failed on my 15.  Called GM, no help on it even though there was a known problem.  There was a class action lawsuit over it which required GM to pay for repairs apparently that mentions others can use this to recoup costs of the repair but it appears it's for a different failure than the one everyone is discussing here.  It says it covers everyone in the US for similar problems  https://www.classaction.org/media/won-v-general-motors-company-et-al.pdf

 

  I'm having an independent shop fix it, $800 so quite a bit less than the numbers I see other posting for the repair cost.   

 

 

Edited by Srode1
Posted

Out of all the problems with my truck, I really feel bent over and screwed by this one.

 

it’s really expensive to repair, they knew about it, and I’m on my 2nd failure in 63k miles. Insane

 

I for sure will never buy another gm truck because of this. And I’m not the type of guy to say that over a pile of nuts and bolts. I only disassociate myself with a brand or business if they are truely horrible.
 

Go **** yourself GM

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

it went out on our 2016 Suburban with 75k miles.  Our extended warranty covered it and the new magnaride shock that was leaking that they found during their inspection.

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine is out. Blowing warm air

 

2016 with 71,500 miles

 

Not happy 

 

Where do Iook to find the line failure ?

  • 1 year later...
Posted

About to replace my condenser this weekend on my 2018 Sierra SLT.

Same issue in the same location. Mine even has the silver bandaid from the factory.

To add insult to injury I found out my truck has the new 1234yf refrigerant. 

Thus I had to get new adapters for the fittings and can tap for my manifold gauges.

 

According to what I have seen, it takes 16oz of the 1234yf and 6.2oz of PAG-46 for a complete replacement. Not sure how much oil to add for the condensor replacement since most of it should be still in the system.

Posted
On 5/5/2023 at 10:45 AM, lonestardiver said:

About to replace my condenser this weekend on my 2018 Sierra SLT.

Same issue in the same location. Mine even has the silver bandaid from the factory.

To add insult to injury I found out my truck has the new 1234yf refrigerant. 

Thus I had to get new adapters for the fittings and can tap for my manifold gauges.

 

According to what I have seen, it takes 16oz of the 1234yf and 6.2oz of PAG-46 for a complete replacement. Not sure how much oil to add for the condensor replacement since most of it should be still in the system.

 

IIRC, a condensor is about a 2 oz PAG addition.  It's all a bit of a WAG anyway.  I'd go with about 1.5 oz and call it a day.  A 2018 is about old enough to just go ahead and change the dryer too. 

 

I'm kinda in your boat, in that I have all 134 stuff.  2 vehicles with 134 and the 2018 jeep with 1234.   I recently stocked up on 134 from Ebay.  CA has put enough regulations on 134 that the cost is going up and the handwriting is on the wall, eventually it's going to be regulated out of the state.  I'm not sure I have another truck in my future.  I'm 67.  My 2014 has enough rash on it to make it comfortable to park anywhere but still looks decent and I'm keeping it mechanically up on the step.  So, I may need 134 for another 10 years. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Just replaced mine I went with a aftermarket from carid right around $100 with shipping. Not that bad about 4 hrs. Taking breaks cause it gets pretty hot in my shop the only other cost was Freon and oil. If you remove two bolts that hold in the radiator it will tilt towards the engine and give you enough room to pull out the condenser after removing the transmission cooling lines and the two ac lines of corny 2016 gmc seirra is just out of warranty 109000 miles 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Very true.   However.  GM did give those trucks with the single speed case Terrain Mode.  Terrain Mode mimics 4LO minus the gear reduction and torque capability.  It uses the ABS/braking system to perform the operation.  It also gives these one pedal driving (sort of) when in Terrain Mode via the active brake during throttle lift.     Does it have its limitations over a true 2 speed case?  Sure.  But it works.         
    • Of course actually engaging four wheel drive is step one or even daring to use a ramp like that with a two wheel drive and getting into a mess because of it. As to 4 low, these last few years if its a GM half ton it may not even have low range. A lot of the newer pickups have a lot lower first gear in an automatic transmission then they once did as it was common at one time for a gas engine truck or even the older diesels to just sit there and bog the engine due to the torque converter stall point and not enough torque was generated on reasonable traction to even spin a tire or get out of its own way up a steep grade and 4 low HAD to be used to get enough power to four tires to get them turning. These days traction control systems may hinder a vehicle in a situation like that although that means a tire or tires are spinning so in some ways the traction control can reduce wild spinning and anyone can correct me on that but I think some vehicles cut traction control off in low range ?.    By the sounds of it and you may have the proper equipment but if your responsible for helping vehicles out if they are not able to get out under their own power, I would say to be using a nylon tow rope or have one available so that one is able to give a bit of a run to help sling shot them some initial momentum as most tow straps are made out of polypropylene and impart way too much shock load if used to jerk a stuck vehicle into motion but are totally fine to use if going more from almost a dead pull with the tow vehicle and they are a lot less expensive to replace if damaged. That and some soft shackles to hook onto closed loop tow hooks on the truck your pulling as well as you having the proper shackle insert in your truck so there are no bad accidents with metal clevises joining things together or chain on the end of a tow rope or tow balls being hooked onto etc flying and causing damage or worse if it lets go. Its always a challenge pulling people because some are clueless and will over run the tow rope or strap and drive over it or that risk of ramming into the back of the tow vehicle so usually a few instructions are needed to clue in the driver of the stuck truck. Yeah ... have fun out there 😉
    • In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...