Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Problem: Truck while in 2 wheel drive will sporadically and temporarily tug briefly to the right causing a noticeable pull in the steering wheel to the right. It is only noticed between the speeds of approximately 40-50 MPH. There may be tugs at lower speeds but it is too small to be certain. The tugs do not occur over 50 MPH. The issue cannot be reproduced by the driver. There can be one tug or two to three sequential tugs. The vehicle is problem free prior and after the tugs. The force of the tugs can be mild, moderate or heavy. The tugs are noticed daily closer to the 42 MPH and 50 MPH marks in higher gear while coasting without acceleration or deceleration. For example, truck is accelerated to the 40-50 MPH range and acceleration is softened to allow for coasting in that speed range; the transmission will typically be in a lower gear, higher rpm, for a few moments until it up-shifts to the next higher gear and lower coasting rpm; the sporadic tugs are typically noticed in the lower gear, higher rpm range (1650). It seems that maybe the tugs are more prevalent during the first 5 to 10 minutes of operation from a sitting, parked position (cold engine or hot engine is irrelevant, it appears). Weather and pavement conditions do not affect the problem. Truck tracks straight when not tugging to the right. Problem started around 24,000 to 25,000 miles.

 

Vehicle: 2015 Chevy Silverado, 2500 HD, WT, 6.0L Gas, manual 4x4, dual cab, long bed, tow package, plow package with 26,000 miles currently.

 

Troubleshooting done so far by dealer: (1) corrective alignment; (1) alignment check after corrective alignment; tire rotation; swapping the two tires in front right to left; suspension check; front brake removal, check and lubrication. The dealer is currently stumped.

 

Summary: Dealer has checked for radial pull, mis-alignment, tire pressure and brake issues. The closest guess that I have is from someone else's thread of: passenger side CV shaft going bad. They had what appeared to be the same tugging issues and the CV shaft did not give the tell-tale audible noises of failure. Their passenger side CV shaft just went bad, they changed it and posted that problem was mostly likely solved. I don't know though. Any thoughts??

Posted

If it pulls to the passenger side, the problem lies in the drive train on the drivers side. If you slam on the brakes the truck stops straight with no lock up?

  • Like 2
Posted

Traction control having a fit and applying passenger side brakes to correct something it feels is going on?

  • Like 2
Posted

My bet would also be something with the traction control system with what they have fixed/ruled out so far

  • Like 2
Posted

Here is an update: While going down a straight, dry road around 40 MPH, I put it into 4 wheel high for approximately 15 seconds and then put it back to 2 wheel high. The shift was smooth and no problems. After I did that, I drove for a week and have not had the tugging. I will continue to update for the next three weeks. With this new information does that help you guys diagnose?

Posted

In reply to: "If it pulls to the passenger side, the problem lies in the drive train on the drivers side. If you slam on the brakes the truck stops straight with no lock up?"

 

-With hard to severe braking, the truck stops straight and has no lock up.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

2015 Sierra 3500 4x4, single rear, extra cab, long bed. I noticed this a few months ago, it went away, and now it is back. Very similar problem; the truck occasionally and very briefly pulls to the right. The first time it happened I thought a gust of wind had hit me. It is not a jerk, more of a gentle tug, kind of like someone reached over and pulled the wheel a couple of inches to the right and let go. Only lasts half a second. THIS TIME, however, I realize it happens when the truck shifts. Just happens in the higher gears, maybe the top two, maybe the top three. I have not narrowed it down in that regard. So, yes, probably around 40 - 50 mph. To me, that definitely makes it a drive train issue. Has anyone else noticed this?

Edited by f6pilot
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi I own a 2015 3500 crew cab sb 6.0. I have noticed the same. Always after I leave work. I have oversized tires so I thought it was that. I'm glad I am not the only person that has noticed it. It was not doing it for a long time here and there. And nothing for a few months but did it just last week to me twice in a Mike Long stretch of Rd. I have not pursued anything with dealer because I feel like I won't get anywhere with them.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

UPDATE: 8/17/2017:

 

Ever since I initially engaged the 4 wheel drive in 4 high briefly and back down to 2 high several weeks ago, I have not had the noticeable tugging in the steering wheel. I do however, feel like I have to fight more with the steering. In which, I mean I have to keep both hands on the steering wheel because I feel it is swaying lightly. The sway is so minute however, I cannot tell if it is me imagining it or the road I am on. With that being said, there are other times that I feel the sway isn't there on the same roads. I have a feeling that it has to be with this newer 4x4 front end design. The older, most known design is the solid front axle but with this truck it is a differential that has driveaxles like that of a front wheel drive car. I believe they did this to give the truck excellent turning capabilities. I have a hunch that it is an honest to goodness engineering defect in the tolerance of the machined driveaxles. I suspect that it is rubbing, rubbing inward or trying to put itself into 4x4 mode on the passenger side without physical engagement of the 4x4 shifter. The reason I decided to try engaging and disengaging the 4x4 and the reason I suspect an engineering flaw is because someone told me that their newer 4x4 Chevy Colorado has a sporadic 4x4 engaging problem that the dealer cannot find. This person stated that, not always, but sometimes, if he turned the steering wheel hard enough in which he could hear and feel it hitting the max turn position, that the 4x4 would engage into 4 low. I hypothesis that the driveaxle or driveaxles are forcing their way into 4x4 mode at max turn radius and it is the 4 wheel drive low light coming on his electronic turn button control as a response to the system engaging and indicating that he is in 4x4 mode; not the turn button itself causing the deliberate normal operation of 4x4. This person I trust because he has higher, more consistent capability of observation than the typical person. Since my truck is so long, I often hit max turning position. I am currently working on a way to see if max turning radius with variables will cause the problem to reappear. I.E. flat surface max turn; mild to heavy grade max turn (on hilly driveways) going up or going down; right max or left max, etc. I going with an assumption that the max turn radius is re-positioning the passenger drive axle in such a way that at the right rpm and right speeds, it is attempting to engage 4x4, however it is luckily only rubbing, thus steering wheel tug and not engaging as I suspect if it did, it might flip the truck and or exploded the front end.

Edited by DHC331
  • Like 1
Posted

I also find this only happens in the first few miles of driving. The last two weeks I have been switching off the traction control when I start out and have not had the tug occur. ?????

Posted

I also find this only happens in the first few miles of driving. The last two weeks I have been switching off the traction control when I start out and have not had the tug occur. ?????

Excellent, no cost fix. Plus my truck seems to pull off the line smoother with the TC off.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

On the freeways, I keep TC off as well as grade braking assist off when unloaded. I've had the tug a few times as well, seems to happen on certain types of tarmac only. At least from what I've experienced. I use tow/haul mode when unloaded as well just to help keep up with varying traffic conditions and freeways with lots of overpasses. Instant torque with T/H, I love it.

 

Now stability control will save you in an emergency situation, but TC is just a nanny for unexperienced drivers. I had TC off during the middle of hurricane harvey here in Houston, I see no point in it besides to please the insurance and government overlords.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can someone tell me where the video processing module is in a 2023 Silverado? I'm getting conflicting results that it's in the front passenger area or the rear passenger area behind the seat.
    • Yes I agree, its what amounts to free advertising to let people know about his UOA testing company, and not that there is anything wrong with that but certainly that is a motivator for putting out videos about the science of oil as well as other topics such as oil and air filtration etc. The interesting part I found with his last video is not only the physics behind the reason for the varying wear due to a diesels working torque range causing more bearing load and that higher viscosity oil is of benefit, it was also that the chemistry behind the GM Dexos 0W-20 and the Mobil Dexos licensed 0W-20 are far enough apart that its showing up with a difference in wear even though the two oils are matched in viscosity and in that comparison viscosity was not having the finger pointed at it.    There are a few youtubers out there or one anyway that I have watched a bit of who has gone through the pains of accessing various countries manuals for a certain engine platform and while in the US/Canada it may say use 0W-20 or what have you for some Toyota product, in some other countries it sings a very different tune for the very same engine with the typical traditional oil viscosity/ambient temperature charts to help choose which oil viscosity is correct for the conditions the vehicle will be used in and in some cases its taken an engine in a US manual that states only use 0W-20 as per warranty coverage and yet that same engine in certain other countries may have up to a 15W-40 etc oil option that meets the spec. Another words the guy who is driving through Death Valley or Phoenix and south weather at 120f is often being fed a line of bs by the US system that has forced vehicle companies to restrict the warranty to a specific low viscosity oil for anterior reasons as well as the long drain interval suggestions.    Thankfully youtube is free ( yet anyway ) for viewers to sift through information and of course comes with the good and the bad ( truth and lies ) and we can choose to turn off/not watch what a person finds is bs or just not interested in the topic.         
    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...