Jump to content

Anybody else park their truck?

Doug Rosewood

By Doug Rosewood
in The Off-Topic Bar

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply
aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted

yeah. I work from home and drive to job sites for inspections a couple times a week. I drive my beater grand am and expense the miles for work. So my truck lives in the garage all week and is mostly reserved for the weekends.

 

2015 Silverado (owned for 25 months): 20,xxx miles

2004 grand am: 180,000 miles

michigan2500hd Senior Enthusiast

michigan2500hd

Posted
Posted

I try to leave the 2015 parked as much as possible and drive the wife's winter beater Ford expedition when I don't need the trucks need anything towing abilities. She has a Pontiac G8 so it's not great in the snow. I've got about 26,000 on the truck.

 

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

Sierra 5.3 Enthusiast

Sierra 5.3

Posted
Posted

I don't because I don't have two vehicles. Even if I did, it would be debatable. What's the reasoning? Just to keep the miles off to keep the value up? What is it gaining you, a thousand or so on the trade in value, maybe? What is it doing to your other vehicle? How much is maintenance on it costing you? I can't answer these questions as it is not my situation, but just using logic it would seem that you are not really gaining that much value from doing this. maybe I am wrong. Regardless, I really like driving my truck and doubt I could park it for more than a few days before I would have to take it for a drive. Seriously, I sometimes just drive my truck to go for a drive. No real reason for leaving the house.

sdeeter19555 Senior Enthusiast

sdeeter19555

Posted
Posted

When I had a third car I did...truck gets worse mileage, was less comfortable, and takes longer in the commute (slower).

 

Not to mention the Subaru Outback I had was a whole lot better on snow and ice than the truck (studded snow tires and the old version of Subaru's AWD).

 

I did it some for miles, but mainly for convenience.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

gupster88 Enthusiast

gupster88

Posted
Posted

I don't since I only live 6 miles from work. I am on track to put 11,000 miles on my truck in it's first year and that's HIGH for me. It's only this high because I bought a camper this year and have been towing it back and forth to the lake plus I took some trips to Columbus this year. So I cannot justify the added cost of insurance, gas, and maintenance even on a beater.

 

If I lived quite a distance away from work, I'd definitely consider driving a work vehicle though.

aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted

I don't because I don't have two vehicles. Even if I did, it would be debatable. What's the reasoning? Just to keep the miles off to keep the value up? What is it gaining you, a thousand or so on the trade in value, maybe? What is it doing to your other vehicle? How much is maintenance on it costing you? I can't answer these questions as it is not my situation, but just using logic it would seem that you are not really gaining that much value from doing this. maybe I am wrong. Regardless, I really like driving my truck and doubt I could park it for more than a few days before I would have to take it for a drive. Seriously, I sometimes just drive my truck to go for a drive. No real reason for leaving the house.

 

My wife is a total nerd and ran all the numbers. We are saving more money by me having a beater than I would spend buying gas for the truck all the time. It really comes down to how many miles you put on the beater and if you have cheap enough insurance on it.

 

With the reimbursed mileage for work mileage- I have already received more than I paid for the car + gas.

 

Definitely isn't the answer for everyone, but for some it can save money.

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

I used my wife's car quite a lot to save on gas when I owned my '00 and '09. I intentionally purchased a '15 with the base engine to eliminate my need to drive the car!

cpttimerestraint Enthusiast

cpttimerestraint

Posted
Posted

I try to ride the bus to work 4 times a week. We use my truck for road trips, house projects and hunting so I still put 16k per year on it. I figure I would rather put the miles on doing fun stuff than commuting 40 miles per day to work. Since I have a lot invested in my truck, I want to make it last

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Daly Senior Enthusiast

Daly

Posted
Posted

Not driving your truck to keep the miles off is like not banging your gf to keep her fresh for the next guy.

 

I have 3 vehicles, 2 that are driven year round and I still put the miles on all of them. I don't buy them to look at them and vehicles are the worst investment you can have, so you might as well get everything you can out of them.

Sierra 5.3 Enthusiast

Sierra 5.3

Posted
Posted

 

My wife is a total nerd and ran all the numbers. We are saving more money by me having a beater than I would spend buying gas for the truck all the time. It really comes down to how many miles you put on the beater and if you have cheap enough insurance on it.

 

With the reimbursed mileage for work mileage- I have already received more than I paid for the car + gas.

 

Definitely isn't the answer for everyone, but for some it can save money.

That makes sense. Getting reimbursed for mileage would be a huge factor in wanting the best MPG.

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

Not here.....Downsize on vehicle so I can get killed on Hwy in commute? No thanks.......I will pay the gas and Insurance etc. and I am sure it will still be beneficial to only own 1qty daily.....as long as the daily driver can do it all? Which it clearly does!

mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted

Not driving your truck to keep the miles off is like not banging your gf to keep her fresh for the next guy.

 

I have 3 vehicles, 2 that are driven year round and I still put the miles on all of them. I don't buy them to look at them and vehicles are the worst investment you can have, so you might as well get everything you can out of them.

 

 

That's right son! Pound away, pound away!

aseibel Senior Enthusiast

aseibel

Posted
Posted

I have 3 vehicles, 2 that are driven year round and I still put the miles on all of them. I don't buy them to look at them and vehicles are the worst investment you can have, so you might as well get everything you can out of them.

 

I drive all mine too. But since you can only drive 1 at a time, you always have 2 sitting at home no matter what.

The difference is none of yours get good mileage, in fact your DD pick-up is probably the highest. so just like me, you are putting the majority of your miles on your most efficient vehicle.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...