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Door ajar

205harleyman
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GMTrucktech11 Enthusiast

GMTrucktech11

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Chevy9 said:

 

What if the motor or harness (corrosion) is not the problem.

I looked and saw no corrosion.

 

Is there a way to test the motor?

All connections/ harness on the the door were checked, and look brand new, put grease anyways aswell.

 

Still had same problem.

 

The window does not roll down, window switch buttons do not work, the horn when locking does not work, and the window lock button does not work?

 

 

Interesting to say the least... Just to clarify, do any of the Windows function with the drivers door switch?  What codes do you have if any?  Most will set some type of "U" code for communication faults.  These will help dial in a potential issue. It sounds to me like there is more going on here than my example.  I'll help out as much as I can. 

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74Sprint17SierraATX
74Sprint17SierraATX

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cu

ram1067
ram1067

damn proverbial  "ever since" you change the oil........  

kmyndiuk
kmyndiuk

Update on mine. I pulled the entire wiring harness out of the door and did a continuity test. The green/yellow wire seemed to be an issue. Circuit 6134 Which is the linear interconnect network (commun

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Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, GMTrucktech11 said:

Interesting to say the least... Just to clarify, do any of the Windows function with the drivers door switch?  What codes do you have if any?  Most will set some type of "U" code for communication faults.  These will help dial in a potential issue. It sounds to me like there is more going on here than my example.  I'll help out as much as I can. 

 

The switch does not put any windows down.. Other doors switches and windows work individually.

 

There are no codes showing, all clear.

 

Very strange, the first post after he did an oil change it was noticed, I had an oil change as well, but not sure if that had any effect in it.

Very strange combination..

 

- Door open signal showing on dash

- Driver side window switch for all windows - no power -

- The window lock button - no power -

- The horn when locking the vehicle (locking/alarm work)

 

another earlier post someone suggested to change the motor, and someone did, but it didnt work for them.

 

Very strange that these are all related #1.

 

Thanks for the help

 

 

 

 

 

 

REDOO2000 Enthusiast

REDOO2000

Posted
Posted

I had same problem. The truck was 3 months old. Window was rubbing on the door harness. Chevy changed the whole harness out. I had same exact issues. Constantly told me to roll window down and then up and couldn’t lock door from outside

U won’t get a horn to lock because the truck thinks the door is open.

My door harness was shorted and melted

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, REDOO2000 said:

I had same problem. The truck was 3 months old. Window was rubbing on the door harness. Chevy changed the whole harness out. I had same exact issues. Constantly told me to roll window down and then up and couldn’t lock door from outside

U won’t get a horn to lock because the truck thinks the door is open.

My door harness was shorted and melted

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

What did they change - Do you know the part number ?

 

 

GMTrucktech11 Enthusiast

GMTrucktech11

Posted
Posted
58 minutes ago, Chevy9 said:

 

What did they change - Do you know the part number ?

 

 

I don't know the part numbers of hand but I do know there was a harness option when I replaced the pig tail.  According to your information I would definitely take a close look at the harness, especially where it passes near the window regulator.  If there are no codes it would lead me to believe there is a power/ground issue. Use a meter and check for voltage on the 12v supply to the window switch with the key on. If you don't have any power I would bet the harness is shorted and blew a fuse. 

kmyndiuk Enthusiast

kmyndiuk

Posted
Posted

Update on mine. I pulled the entire wiring harness out of the door and did a continuity test. The green/yellow wire seemed to be an issue. Circuit 6134 Which is the linear interconnect network (communication with the BCM). Replaced wiring harness with GM#84290987. Problem solved.

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GMTrucktech11 Enthusiast

GMTrucktech11

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, kmyndiuk said:

Update on mine. I pulled the entire wiring harness out of the door and did a continuity test. The green/yellow wire seemed to be an issue. Circuit 6134 Which is the linear interconnect network (communication with the BCM). Replaced wiring harness with GM#84290987. Problem solved.

You know, now that you mention it I think I previously stated GMLAN network and I misspoke.  It was the LIN wires I found corrosion in and the green/yellow wire to be more specific.  I'm glad that solved your issue.  Sorry I misspoke but glad for the resolution.

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, GMTrucktech11 said:

You know, now that you mention it I think I previously stated GMLAN network and I misspoke.  It was the LIN wires I found corrosion in and the green/yellow wire to be more specific.  I'm glad that solved your issue.  Sorry I misspoke but glad for the resolution.

Thank you, I think most likely I have that same issue.

kmyndiuk Enthusiast

kmyndiuk

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Chevy9 said:

Thank you, I think most likely I have that same issue.

It is actually not that tough of a fix. Found the door panel removal on YouTube and the harness is pretty straight forward unplug and replug. Took maybe an hour to remove and replace.

  • 3 weeks later...
dli608 New Member

dli608

Posted
Posted

I had the same issues with my 2014 silverado LT and it was caused by wiring harness damage where it exits the door. Four wires were damaged. The rubber boot showed a small intrusion in the area of the damaged wires. I suspect that the very slow seat belt retention allowed the seat belt latch to get wedged between the front and rear door and and when the front door was closed the latch  penetrated the harness. I replaced it myself in about an hour. Watch the youtube on inner door panel removal. I removed the speaker and the window channel on the front side for easier access. $75 for the harness 

  • 3 months later...
Todd40 Enthusiast

Todd40

Posted
Posted
On 7/23/2018 at 2:18 AM, Smittyrules99 said:

Hi

Hi singleup, I have a 2014 1500 High Country with 168,000 kms on it, giving me the exact same problem. Are you referring to the wiring harness located in the accordion style boot between the door and the frame of the cab? 

Or is this only accessible by taking the door panel off? 

Really would rather not go to the dealership on this any info would be a great help.

 

Thanks

I have the same truck.  Mine just started doing this. Did you get yours fixed? 

Chevy9 Enthusiast

Chevy9

Posted
Posted
On 2/1/2019 at 2:30 PM, Todd40 said:

I have the same truck.  Mine just started doing this. Did you get yours fixed? 

 

Yes.. on my truck it was - Wire Harness - GM (23171548)

It is easy to take door panel apart. If you take it to GM/Chevy dealer they charg 1.5 hours to change it..

 

 

  • 4 months later...
RickertsRed New Member

RickertsRed

Posted
Posted

So I’m reviving this thread because I had a very similar issue just recently and the fix was simple so hopefully it’ll help you guys.

 

My ‘17 Sierra 3500 started with the door ajar issue, I tried slamming it, playing with the accordion wire harness in the door frame, I even took the door panel off and pulled apart all the connectors to see if there were loose or frayed wires or possible corrosion. Pulled out a multimeter and checked everything; all good. None of the above fixed my problem.

 

Then I started getting the “service trailer brake” and “trailer disconnected” randomly. Sometimes with a trailer attached, sometimes without. Seemed odd to me, but I didn’t even bother troubleshooting.

 

Next I started getting “Service Stabilitrak” randomly and sporadically.

 

Ok ok now I’m thinking WTF is going on here. So I disconnected both batteries and pulled every single fuse and reset it (checked to see if it was popped in the process). I didn’t even check to see which fuse I pulled, just pull, inspect, replace.

 

The length of the whole battery and fuse process took me about 2 beer, throwing a ball for the dog periodically, playing referee for two toddlers who love to fight and VIOLLA... the door ajar, trailer brake, and stabiltrak all fixed in one swoop.

 

Hope this helps the next guy.

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