Front end parts info and tips

[NVGMman]

Hello GMers! These weekend I had to replace the 4 MOOG control arms that I had installed last June as the rubber bushings were really cracked and fraying after only 9 months. I had purchased them thru Summit Racing and they warrantied all four and sent out new ones. However when I inspected them, all of the ball joints boots had holes/slits. Luckily I live 15 minutes away from Summit warehouse and they swapped them out yet we went through 8 boxes to get good ones as many of BJ boots were torn straight out of the new unopened MOOG boxes. The service reps and I were really surprised as they are usually always top notch. The lower arms had the new intregal boots which seem to be a thinner rubber compared to old style and upper arms had the double bump beehive boots. With that, always double/triple check your BJ boots regards of brand!

 

Since I was already working on the front end, I replaced both axles seals as they leaked, replaced CV axles as one had a torn boot and grease was getting flung everywhere and also the hubs even though they seemed to be good.  The seals were ACDelco 22761722 and they came out easliy using a slide hammer  (rented from AutoZone).  I purchased two brands of CV axles (NAPA MaxDrive and A1Cardone) both were new and the heavy duty version and were borh the exact same meaning NAPA is rebranded A1Cardone. I called Cardone to inquire difference between regular & HD versions a the only difference is the HD a thermoplastic outer boots and thicker bands; thats it but worth it due to a small cost difference

 Top shaft is out of NAPA box and Cardone the bottom.

 

As for the bearing hubs assemblies, I ended up going with Timken as they are Made in USA and are known for highly dependable and quality bearings. To my surprise as I remove the stock hubs, the OEM were Timken brand as seen on the wheel sensor and look identical to the new ones.  Question: are your hub assemblies Timken as well?  My '07 GMC 1500 Classic was made in Canada and I'm wondering if that matter compared to GM made in US ir Mexico.

 

Does anyone know if we need to preload the control arms prior to torquing them to spec? None of the instructions in the boxes or online mentioned preloading which is getfing the arms bolts snug then jacking them up to the level/angle where they normal are at. I found that type if info on car sites and did the assembly that way as thay could have been why my arm bushing were torn up in less than 9 months. 

Sidenote, I fillled up my front diff with Royal Purple 75w90 gear oil and  slightly over-filled as front was jacked up and in driveway. This caused me to freak out as the new seals were seeping out a bit but have now stopped. 

Also, I was able to rent all the unique tools I didnt have from AutoZone like the 200ft lb torque wrench (high for axle nuts), slide hammer (for seals n didnt damage axle housings at all), torsion bar unloader and front end axles sockets kit for the 36mm axle nut. 

Now this rig is ready for another 150k+ miles....

[5proms]

Nice work!  I also put MOOG upper and lower arms on my '05 Yukon XL 1500 4WD at about the 180,000 mile point about 3 years ago.  Haven't had any issues yet and I'm passing 230,000 mi.  Had both front hubs replaced much earlier, probably at the 130,000 mark, they were both humming a bit.  BTW, this truck was assembled in Janesville, WI, many consider that assembly plant the last of the good ones.