Transmission Fluid Change

[txab]

Are you sure you can't get the pan off by simply jacking the back end of the tranny up a bit? It works on many models. Yes you fill through the dip stick tube.

[Hexa Fox]

3 hours ago, txab said:

Are you sure you can't get the pan off by simply jacking the back end of the tranny up a bit? It works on many models. Yes you fill through the dip stick tube.

Thanks for answering that, this means I can just bolt the pan back up the assembly dry which makes it a lot more convenient then what I was going for...

 

Anyway I am just not personally comfortable taking a floor jack to the transmission, and my father said the same thing. Also if you take a look at this video, the underside of my truck looks exactly the same as this one. Just skip to 4:30 if you want to get right to what I am talking about. 

 

 

[txab]

When removing the pan keep it somewhat level and bring it forward. If you tilt it downwards too much you'll not clear the internal parts. You only need an inch or so additional clearance. Some people pry downwards on the crossover as well. If you have to remove the exhaust from the manifolds, hope you don't snap a bolt

 

The 2012 you're viewing is a totally different transmission. You've got a 4L60E

[Black02Silverado]

53 minutes ago, txab said:

When removing the pan keep it somewhat level and bring it forward. If you tilt it downwards too much you'll not clear the internal parts. You only need an inch or so additional clearance. Some people pry downwards on the crossover as well. If you have to remove the exhaust from the manifolds, hope you don't snap a bolt

 

The 2012 you're viewing is a totally different transmission. You've got a 4L60E

Exactly.  I was able to get my pan down the same way.  You can't really tilt it, you have to kind of turn it and then just level lower it to clear. 

[sefiroxx]

Normal process:
- obtain transmission/radiator hose barb that allows you connect a hose to the top of the radiator
- run hose to 5 gallon bucket
- identify how much new fluid, but 1 g extra and hold until the very end
- funnel to the transmission dip stick tube.
- (Option run car until no more fluid in tube, drop pan, replace filter)
- run car, adding fluid, until pink on out put
- reconnect everything
- set car on level surface, idling, add from extra 1 G until mid way on the dip stick

Typically, filter changes are not required. They are there to prevent catastrophic failure in case of minor failure of a secondary part (piece of clutch flaking off). Typically, when you have enough material to clog the filter, you already have an failing tran and will be pulling it for repair/reman anyway.

[Hexa Fox]

Hey guys, really appreciate all the replies. I am going to print out the directions from Sefiroxx right now. I am thinking I am going to change the transmission fluid again at 150,000 assuming I still possess the truck then. I will probably not mess around with the pan at all then. 

 

The mention of the filter and failure makes a lot of sense. I have watched people cut them open many times before and they complain because there is a lack of paper and instead like a 'net' material. So it would make sense that it is there to collect parts from the transmission degrading rather than contaminants from the oil. I only bought a gallon of Dexon VI off of Amazon to get me started. I thought if I stopped in various auto stores someone would have it on sell but they do not. 

 

Also for better or worse my father is liking the transmission route better. Something just scratches me the wrong way with taking a hydraulic jack to my transmission. Can you guys tell me where the bolt(s) to the bracket is to allow the transmission to be lifted?

 

I know I say it a lot but I really do appreciate it guys. I might have gotten in over my head without a community like this to help out. Just so you guys know I have been taking pictures this entire time, but my @$$-a-phone was taking those "Live Photos" where it takes like three seconds of video instead of a still picture. I have it turned off now, so if I get any good ones I will document. 

[Black02Silverado]

Here is a write-up I posted on another forum. 

 

Truck Mod Central How to thread.

[Hexa Fox]

10 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

Here is a write-up I posted on another forum. 

 

Truck Mod Central How to thread.

I realize I get off topic too much, but this makes me want to sell my truck. The underside of my truck looks terrible compared to this. Thanks for sharing though it is interesting. 

 

Also my pan has an recess like this one does but it is solid, there is no drain bolt. 

 

I know this is the old body style but looks a lot like mine underneath. (Guessing why you sent it). 

 

So he removed the driveshaft and shift cable then what? Able to get the pan to slide off to the right towards the passenger side?

[txab]

Your only lifting on the tailshaft housing. Only raising it a little. In the process you're just titling the engine/trans assembly upwards. You can only go so high, because the transmission housing will "bottom out" against the trans tunnel of the body basically. There are videos that show the process.  The rear trans mount bolt(s) must be removed to allow the tailshaft to rise. It will move very easily. If you reach the point where it no longer is raising up, stop! Continuing to attempt to shove it any higher will cause damage. Again we're only talking and inch or so probably. As Nick notes in his link you need to remove your front shaft. Again the pan is not going to come out at a drastic angle. Pan will drop down and you should be able to slide it whichever way you need to work it out. Be aware there are shift solenoids with wiring that you can get hung up on if you're too aggressive. It's really a pretty simple job. The worst part is getting the filter seal out. 

 

You can also put on an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, price ranges from $20-$30

[Hexa Fox]

23 hours ago, txab said:

Your only lifting on the tailshaft housing. Only raising it a little. In the process you're just titling the engine/trans assembly upwards. You can only go so high, because the transmission housing will "bottom out" against the trans tunnel of the body basically. There are videos that show the process.  The rear trans mount bolt(s) must be removed to allow the tailshaft to rise. It will move very easily. If you reach the point where it no longer is raising up, stop! Continuing to attempt to shove it any higher will cause damage. Again we're only talking and inch or so probably. As Nick notes in his link you need to remove your front shaft. Again the pan is not going to come out at a drastic angle. Pan will drop down and you should be able to slide it whichever way you need to work it out. Be aware there are shift solenoids with wiring that you can get hung up on if you're too aggressive. It's really a pretty simple job. The worst part is getting the filter seal out. 

 

You can also put on an aftermarket pan with a drain plug, price ranges from $20-$30

Yeah I actually thought about putting an aftermarket pan on mine to increase the capacity of fluid. I decided against it because of the clearance issue and possibility of other problems. I figure if my transmission gets out of this alive I will just change it again around 150,000 miles and just forget about dropping the pan so hopefully will not regret getting one with a drain plug. 

 

Anyway the guide that Nick? sent from the other Nick? takes off the shift cable, front drive shaft, and heat shield then is able to get the pan off without doing anything else? Forgive me, but you make it sound like he also jacked up the transmission in addition to this? 

[txab]

Nick's rig has more clearance between the exhaust and the pan than your rig. Some vehicles it's not an issue. On my '04 I raised the tail to gain additional clearance. In his pictures you can see what the pan catches on and can judge how much additional clearance you'll need.

 

If you want to remove the exhaust. Soak nuts in Kroil or PB Blaster

[Hexa Fox]

2 hours ago, txab said:

Nick's rig has more clearance between the exhaust and the pan than your rig. Some vehicles it's not an issue. On my '04 I raised the tail to gain additional clearance. In his pictures you can see what the pan catches on and can judge how much additional clearance you'll need.

 

If you want to remove the exhaust. Soak nuts in Kroil or PB Blaster

I have not decided yet. My father said he tried to break one of the exhaust bolts loose and it would not budge. I will talk to him tomorrow and see what he thinks. I like Sea Foam Deep Creep for penetrating fluid, it has not failed me yet. Also always does good during experiments and trials. Probably will use my torch or heat gun to try and heat them up too. 

[Hexa Fox]

Sorry I made so many new posts, I hit the maximum for uploads and had to separate them. I hope this is okay. I still have a ways to go and appreciate the support of everyone from this community, especially txab and Black02Silverado. I was trying to get decent pictures, while holding a flashlight, and trying to not get my phone funky. Here is what I am working with. I thought about starting a new topic for documentation, but I am not even finished yet. 

[Hexa Fox]

Not sure if it is a big deal but a couple of these gray plastic wrapped around the screws are broken. It looks like there only purpose is to hold the wiring in place and it is still pretty secure. Not going to lie, could have very well broken them getting the pan off. 

I was able to pry away the shift linkage using using a C-clamp. I know it is hard to see but it is on the tip of the bracket that holds the shift linkage in place and on the other side of the front drive shaft. 

[Hexa Fox]

This is again difficult to see, but gives you a different angle. This worked pretty well, but did have to pry the bracket that holds the shift linkage a good deal away. It was pretty close to touching the front drive shaft before the pan would come out. Also the drive shaft kept wanting to turn while trying to secure the C-clamp.

This is the C-clamp I used and the box of the new filter, gasket, and seal. I will let you know what size it is when I figure it out myself. The first one I tried was too small. I do not think I can do any real damage this, way as you do not need to put a lot of pressure on the front drive shaft to get the bracket that holds the shift linkage to shift over. I decided to go ahead and take it off though in fear that it might do damage if I do not get to it for a couple more days.