Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Identical issue here with my 2018 Suburban.  Took around 15 visits to the dealer for them to finally solve the issue by replacing the antenna amplifier.  Shortly after we had issues with the engine mounts and a leaking rear air shock.  Had them replace the vehicle under the Lemon Law and opted for the same vehicle just the 2019 model.  Guess what?  Same exact key fob issue with this one as well.  At least this time they knew what to do.  They replaced the antenna amplifier last year and all was good...until yesterday.  Got in the car and it wouldn't start...keyfob not found message on dash.  Also passive locks wound't work again and remote range was about 20 feet from the vehicle (line of site).  Called up dealer and made another appointment to have it replaced yet again...I can't imagine my luck is that bad and that many others out there aren't experiencing issues like this.  It has to be more wide spread.  I sure hope they figure out what is actually causing this.  I ordered the BlueDriver and am going to give that a shot too just in case.  At least I found others that are having the same issue this time.  Two years ago when we were first experiencing this issue I couldn't find anything online regarding others having similar issues.

Edited by tsviper
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On ‎2‎/‎1‎/‎2020 at 5:27 PM, Kelbster E said:

UPDATE:

 

With the knowledge I gained from this forum, I tried the local GMC dealership one more time.  This time, and with a different employee, they acknowledged a reported problem and advised that GM engineers are investigating, and they offered to replace the AMPLIFIER. The employee said another customer with the same vehicle had all the problems I reported and replacing the amplifier solved his issues.
 

A new amplifier was installed in my Yukon yesterday. No problems since and a much improved range. I’ll update the group if any issues return.

AAD26DAD-797F-4055-863D-3B8C9686452B.jpeg

Mine is doing it more and more now. Do you think any programming needs to be done once the amplifier is replaced? I was thinking of swapping the part out myself.. Its only about 25 bucks. Just waste too much time going to the dealer

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Well I changed out the amplifier and it works for now. Let’s see how long it lasts. Cheap part made in China. Very easy job.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 9/24/2020 at 2:38 PM, Bob2C said:

Well I changed out the amplifier and it works for now. Let’s see how long it lasts. Cheap part made in China. Very easy job.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Our 2016 Suburban is doing the same thing.  How hard is it to change out the amplifier and where is it located.  Do you have a part number?

Posted
Our 2016 Suburban is doing the same thing.  How hard is it to change out the amplifier and where is it located.  Do you have a part number?

Easy to do. 20 min. Below is the part I used. They make 2 different parts with different frequencies depending on your RPO code. Got mine from rockauto.

23b74764d9509694de28e16b38dbaf5d.jpg
39a7086cac85127fd6f8b24ac9dda125.jpg
20c3df537bd1d4b9b2917800f0a6fea7.jpg
4542300d2755222d8a37c4a724d9f1d0.jpg
de67a652f2b75c742a2975dd08882711.jpg
6f08483ccd64acb9ea0c643ad495de93.jpg
d805f703a820d18a331ef24d0824d810.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
19 hours ago, Bob2C said:


Easy to do. 20 min. Below is the part I used. They make 2 different parts with different frequencies depending on your RPO code. Got mine from rockauto.

23b74764d9509694de28e16b38dbaf5d.jpg
39a7086cac85127fd6f8b24ac9dda125.jpg
20c3df537bd1d4b9b2917800f0a6fea7.jpg
4542300d2755222d8a37c4a724d9f1d0.jpg
de67a652f2b75c742a2975dd08882711.jpg
6f08483ccd64acb9ea0c643ad495de93.jpg
d805f703a820d18a331ef24d0824d810.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Bob!

Posted
Thanks Bob!

You might not have to take off the pillar panel behind the back door. The burb is longer and should have enough pull down room of the headliner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 minute ago, Bob2C said:


You might not have to take off the pillar panel behind the back door. The burb is longer and should have enough pull down room of the headliner.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, makes sense.  I'll have to see what part number I need and go from there. :)

  • Like 1
Posted

I've a 2017 Tahoe and have this same issue with just one of my two remotes. Tried replacing batteries etc but nothing seems to help.

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
I've a 2017 Tahoe and have this same issue with just one of my two remotes. Tried replacing batteries etc but nothing seems to help.

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk



More than likely it’s the amplifier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

More than likely it’s the amplifier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rgr, Tanks. I've a warranty with dealer, ill take it in if part is more than $50

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
Rgr, Tanks. I've a warranty with dealer, ill take it in if part is more than $50

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk


Part is 20 bucks from rock auto. I was under warranty too but I hate to have anyone work on it. I would have greasy hand prints all over my headliner. I just know it. I am ver particular about my cars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Part is 20 bucks from rock auto. I was under warranty too but I hate to have anyone work on it. I would have greasy hand prints all over my headliner. I just know it. I am ver particular about my cars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Even better info! I'm going to order today. Thanks again Bob

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
Even better info! I'm going to order today. Thanks again Bob

Sent from my SM-G988U1 using Tapatalk


Make sure you get the right one for your vehicle. They make 2 different frequencies. I would suggest looking at the one in your vehicle. This way there is no issue


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Still going strong here. No issues after replacing. Anyone who replaced the amplifier having any issues?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...