Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just got done dropping my car off to the dealer and after a lengthy conversation they described exactly what they have been doing for the fixes and just like every other dealership they have done many.  They stated that the leak isnt necessarily a defect with the window, the problem has been linked to issues under the spolier.  They have been dropping the back of the headliner and pulling the spolier off, inspecting the top rail of the glass and plastic above the slide to see if there are any cracks.  they then apply a generous amount of sealer over the top of the rail and around all points where the spolier and third break light penetrate the roof to create a seal and button it back up.   They stated that most of the leaks are from the spolier which would make sense since both 19 and 20s are affected.  They havent had any come back for additional problems.    I dont know how confident I am, but its the only option I am being given at this point.  

Posted (edited)

Welp - just got mine back. After two months to the day waiting for the new headliner & rear window (and front window they cracked taking out the headliner.) So I must say it does look good. All the grime and goop from the shitty half ass TSB fix is gone. No bad scratches to interior trim, just two minor ones not worth bitching about. The front overhead console was not put in correct and hanging out. I had to bang that in. Also some greasy hand prints on the plastic but none on the new headliner thank goodness. However the gear shift lever is lose as shit. It wasn't that way when I dropped it off. Going to take it back for that. So 60 days out of service on this second leak, 14-ish or so on the first leak and DIC failure, I'm sitting at 70+ days out of service.


The lemon case is still ongoing. GM sent a letter to my lawyer asking for my loan account number, title & registration, lien holder, etc. Not sure what that means. We shall see soon I hope.

 

Just a reminder to all - hang in there. This does suck but pick your poison. I work with two other guys. They got the RAM & the Ford. I got the Chevy. Guy with the Ford Raptor ($80,000 truck) has oil leaks in the engine, and seams popping on his $2000 leather seats. Guy with the RAM has the Limited and has chrome trim on one side, black on the other - the fancy 12" computer locked solid, and his dealer is calling him a liar saying the chrome trim was there when they sold it. NOT trying to defend GM. I'd like to take a baseball bat to whatever engineer designed the window/roof with holes in it. Just saying it sucks on all sides and all manufacturers.

Edited by SamDSJR
  • Like 4
Posted
10 hours ago, Centrebaseball said:

I guess the moral of the story is, if you don't get a good vibe from the first dealer, don't be afraid to run like hell to another one. 

Yes, this is the truth. This is what I did. I took mine to the closest, biggest dealer first. The service adviser was clueless. And the ensuing work they did lasted about a week. 
 

Going 30 miles up the road to a different dealer on Thursday. I called them and quizzed them intently on the phone. They knew what they were talking about. ??

Posted
1 hour ago, Ethan Fernaays said:

Just got done dropping my car off to the dealer and after a lengthy conversation they described exactly what they have been doing for the fixes and just like every other dealership they have done many.  They stated that the leak isnt necessarily a defect with the window, the problem has been linked to issues under the spolier.  They have been dropping the back of the headliner and pulling the spolier off, inspecting the top rail of the glass and plastic above the slide to see if there are any cracks.  they then apply a generous amount of sealer over the top of the rail and around all points where the spolier and third break light penetrate the roof to create a seal and button it back up.   They stated that most of the leaks are from the spolier which would make sense since both 19 and 20s are affected.  They havent had any come back for additional problems.    I dont know how confident I am, but its the only option I am being given at this point.  

Wow, drop us the name of your dealer. They sound like the most knowledgeable of any dealers people have had to work with in this thread. 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, econometrics said:

Wow, drop us the name of your dealer. They sound like the most knowledgeable of any dealers people have had to work with in this thread. 

Except if it’s really only the spoiler I am not sure that explains why it’s only slider windows that are leaking. 

Posted

Finally, I can post! This forum would not let me join saying I was answering the security question wrong over and over but I guess the FB option worked.  Anyways, wanted to post here to mark it for myself, I own a 2020 LTZ 1500 Duramax (couple weeks, 1000 miles).  Mine leaks on the drivers side but can't notice any wetness on headliner, floor was soaked under rear seat, work a lot so can not be without my truck too long but my dealer will be getting an ear full regardless.  Thank you to all of the members for all of the information.  I read through about 10-20 pages random spots of the 99!

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, Ethan Fernaays said:

Just got done dropping my car off to the dealer and after a lengthy conversation they described exactly what they have been doing for the fixes and just like every other dealership they have done many.  They stated that the leak isnt necessarily a defect with the window, the problem has been linked to issues under the spolier.  They have been dropping the back of the headliner and pulling the spolier off, inspecting the top rail of the glass and plastic above the slide to see if there are any cracks.  they then apply a generous amount of sealer over the top of the rail and around all points where the spolier and third break light penetrate the roof to create a seal and button it back up.   They stated that most of the leaks are from the spolier which would make sense since both 19 and 20s are affected.  They havent had any come back for additional problems.    I dont know how confident I am, but its the only option I am being given at this point.  

They all say this to ease your concerns. Then when it leaks again from the window, they will replace the window. If it was from the spoiler, the solid glass windows would also leak and they wouldn't be replacing so many windows.

  • Like 2
Posted
1 hour ago, Bo Evans said:

Finally, I can post! This forum would not let me join saying I was answering the security question wrong over and over but I guess the FB option worked.  Anyways, wanted to post here to mark it for myself, I own a 2020 LTZ 1500 Duramax (couple weeks, 1000 miles).  Mine leaks on the drivers side but can't notice any wetness on headliner, floor was soaked under rear seat, work a lot so can not be without my truck too long but my dealer will be getting an ear full regardless.  Thank you to all of the members for all of the information.  I read through about 10-20 pages random spots of the 99!

Remember it is GM's crappy design and lack of testing that caused the issue, not your dealer.  You get more flies with honey than with vinegar...

Posted
1 minute ago, cltsig said:

Remember it is GM's crappy design and lack of testing that caused the issue, not your dealer.  You get more flies with honey than with vinegar...

That’s true most of the time. I’m questioning my dealerships techs skill level after performing the tsb twice and it still leaks and then telling me they can’t make it leak. Also really gets under my skin when I’m told that parts are nationally backordered but I’ve seen people with the same problem get theirs fixed under warranty within two weeks and I’m going on 73 days waiting for the exact same parts and I’m “supposed” to be on some kind of Priority List. If my dealership pushed this hard enough it would have been repaired by now. 

Posted
9 hours ago, econometrics said:

Wow, drop us the name of your dealer. They sound like the most knowledgeable of any dealers people have had to work with in this thread. 

Van Bortel Chevrolet in Macedon NY.

  • Like 1
Posted
40 minutes ago, UGADawgs said:

They all say this to ease your concerns. Then when it leaks again from the window, they will replace the window. If it was from the spoiler, the solid glass windows would also leak and they wouldn't be replacing so many windows.

I couldn't agree with you more, they are going to say or do whatever they can to ease concerns.    They did say that if this fix fails they then have to remove and reseat the back window unit.    They are also claiming that they are seeing solid windows with the same leak as well.  I am wondering now after researching this topic if there could possibly be two issues at play here.   A spoiler seal issue which would impact all model years regardless of fixed/slide windows, and a defect with the slide windows themselves.   I tried to get a good look at the top of the plastic above the slide unit to see if there I could see any cracks but without risking damaging the headliner, I couldn't get a good enough view up there.   Its a sad state of affairs anyway you look at it.  So many folks that have spent so much hard earned cash on these vehicles and GM is sitting on it without a real solution.   Because it is not a "safety issue" they aren't going to be forced to do a recall and repurchases are out of the question because a leak in theory can be "fixed".    I will keep everyone posted as my journey continues, but I have to say that I am skeptical at best with the proposed fixes.

Posted

I've been following this thread for a few months, so decided to join to share my experience...

 

2019 Silverado (slider window), purchased at the end of March.

 

Realized it was leaking in November when headliner was soaked and there was water on the inside of the door and on the rear seat (not sure how I didn't notice it before).  Brought it in to the dealership, they had their "water leak expert" guy look at it and "seal" it, which was putting some sealant along the window.  Rained again a week or so later, still leaking - not as bad, but still has water coming in.  Took it back to the dealership, had the same guy come out and basically do the same thing.  Week later, still leaking, same amount as before.  I immediately call, didn't hear back.  It was around the holidays, so I waited for it to rain again, and then called again.  They left me a VM saying they'll contact their "water leak expert" again and have me come back.  I called and left a message saying I'd like to take a different approach to this since attempt 1 and 2 clearly didn't work.  They never called me back.  I left at least two more messages with the person I was dealing with. 

 

I decided to open a case with Chevy as several as you suggested.  My customer rep reached out to the dealership and said I'd have to bring it back in for an "updated diagnostic" even though it's already been in there twice.  She also mentioned that the service manager said that a new window wouldn't necessarily be covered by a warranty.  So I guess it's fine that a brand new truck is leaking water.  We left it at I was going to call and make an appointment, but considering calling my rep back and saying I'd prefer to go to a different dealership at this point especially since there are closer ones to my house.

Posted
2 hours ago, Bo Evans said:

Finally, I can post! This forum would not let me join saying I was answering the security question wrong over and over but I guess the FB option worked.  Anyways, wanted to post here to mark it for myself, I own a 2020 LTZ 1500 Duramax (couple weeks, 1000 miles).  Mine leaks on the drivers side but can't notice any wetness on headliner, floor was soaked under rear seat, work a lot so can not be without my truck too long but my dealer will be getting an ear full regardless.  Thank you to all of the members for all of the information.  I read through about 10-20 pages random spots of the 99!

I’m having the same problem with Tapatalk. I’ve been using them for years. They all the sudden don’t like my E-mail. Wouldn’t let me post.

Posted
45 minutes ago, cltsig said:

Remember it is GM's crappy design and lack of testing that caused the issue, not your dealer.  You get more flies with honey than with vinegar...

I have bought 3 times as many trucks (all GM) as the average person and have dealt with enough of these kinds of issues and the dealer sold me the unit knowing of this issue, there has been a TSB out for over a year now.  IMO, they should fix the ones on the lot before selling them.  I am not trying to get flies, I am trying to get what I paid for and that is not a truck that leaks that has been in my possession for 2 weeks... 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,075 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...