Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
32 minutes ago, Ethan Fernaays said:

Agreed would be just my luck that the replacement would begin leaking at 36001 miles

I wonder if a dealership would agree to actually do it 

Posted
1 minute ago, Rfg14silverado said:

I wonder if a dealership would agree to actually do it 

GM sure as hell wouldn’t pay for it, but I’m sure you could have Safelite or whoever do it. Still sounds like a lousy idea to me though.

Posted
31 minutes ago, Ethan Fernaays said:

Did u get a replacement window?  has your leak been resolved?  

No, I got it sealed on December 26th. It started leaking again a week later. I took it back, but at that visit realized my dealer was clueless. So I made an appointment with another dealer 30 min away that was much more knowledgeable on the phone. 
 

Still haven’t made it in to that appointment. Window was still leaking last week, but less. Then it rained the past few days hard, and it’s not leaking now. So weird. 

Posted
9 hours ago, econometrics said:

Oddly, it’s rained like the flood here the past week off and on, and my previously-resealed-leaking-still-window didn’t leak. ??‍♂️???‍♂️
 

Yet, whenever I have a little morning dew on the top of the truck, I see a drip on the sliding frame corner. ?

That's when I noticed it the first time and after the caulk job, it would only drip after morning dew, not rainstorms or washes. Haven't noticed any drips since the new E4 window last week or so. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

They are putting my headliner in as I type this.  I stopped by the dealership earlier when the pulled the glass.  I found two cracks through the frame that the service manager failed to notice.  They are putting my headliner in today and maybe the window this afternoon or the morning.  I'll pick it up on Monday at this point for a total of 79 days out of service if this is all the warranty work I have to get done.  They did tell me that I haven't been driving the loaner much. Apparently most of the people given loaners drive the heck out of them.  I did notice all of the steel hardware that holds the seat on the rear of the cab is rusting.  I will also say that their glass crew did a great job removing the window in one piece and did not put a single scratch anywhere that is exposed(there is one scratch through the paint exposing primer behind where the window seals).  

Edited by JohnCasey
Posted

So after I found water in my cab yesterday 5 days after my new window was installed I took it by the dealership this morning. Service manager wants it this afternoon. Talked to GMC to reopen my case. And here is a good one for you guys. The guy at GM said he had never heard of this issue. And was blaming the work that the glass installer had done. I had to laugh and then proceeded to educate him. Also pointed out this website for him to look at and gain more education. Of course I think he is lying about not hearing about this before. And no loaner car for me, damn. The adventure continues.

  • Haha 1
  • Sad 1
Posted

UGH!  Took my truck in for the seatbelt recall and the dealership found a lot of moisture under my rug.  The source:  Rear window.  The first attempt to reseal the window failed and waiting to see how the second attempt goes.  so far they had to remove and dissinfect my carpet twice now to prevent mold from growing.

Posted
22 minutes ago, Nocar said:

UGH!  Took my truck in for the seatbelt recall and the dealership found a lot of moisture under my rug.  The source:  Rear window.  The first attempt to reseal the window failed and waiting to see how the second attempt goes.  so far they had to remove and dissinfect my carpet twice now to prevent mold from growing.

They will never fix it with sealant, i dont think a single person has had that hack fix performed and had it last more than a week if even that.

Posted

They sealed mine three times before I convinced them that it needed a new window.  Today they removed my window and I found not one but two cracks through the plastic frame at the edge of the slide guide rail. Good Luck.  I'm on day 75 and they want to give the sealant on the new window 48hrs to cure so I won't get my truck back until Monday-79 days out of service.

Posted
I have read through so many posts on this topic, most people arent posting the type of rear window they have.  Are folks with the fixed rear window experiencing same issues?  I could care less about the sliding rear window will really never use it.  Wondering if I should just have it replaced with a fixed glass unit.

That’s why I ordered mine without it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
They sealed mine three times before I convinced them that it needed a new window.  Today they removed my window and I found not one but two cracks through the plastic frame at the edge of the slide guide rail. Good Luck.  I'm on day 75 and they want to give the sealant on the new window 48hrs to cure so I won't get my truck back until Monday-79 days out of service.

That’s nuts they should have compensated you some way or another


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, BIGDOGx said:

They will never fix it with sealant, i dont think a single person has had that hack fix performed and had it last more than a week if even that.

Mines been sealant fixed since August. Worked on the first attempt and still dry today. Competence (or incompetence) of the techs doing the job probably plays a huge part. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not happy my window is caulked though.

Posted

The caulk joint was very poorly done with mine in the fix each time. I’m actually going to see if they need that window or if they are going to junk it. The pro I saw on the repair after having the window out was the caulk tube tip was cut with too narrow of an opening and wouldn’t allow the caulk to flow out and cover the entire joint from truck body to window glass. Ha they don’t that there would have been no was for the water to enter cracked frame or not. The way the window sits with the spoiler they really would have. A hard time Caulking it properly.  Why GM didn’t have the spoiler come 3/8-1/2” down below the window top and terminate on the glass vertical surface instead of the Horizontal joint is beyond anything this plumber can figure. 

Posted
17 hours ago, JohnCasey said:

The caulk joint was very poorly done with mine in the fix each time. I’m actually going to see if they need that window or if they are going to junk it. The pro I saw on the repair after having the window out was the caulk tube tip was cut with too narrow of an opening and wouldn’t allow the caulk to flow out and cover the entire joint from truck body to window glass. Ha they don’t that there would have been no was for the water to enter cracked frame or not. The way the window sits with the spoiler they really would have. A hard time Caulking it properly.  Why GM didn’t have the spoiler come 3/8-1/2” down below the window top and terminate on the glass vertical surface instead of the Horizontal joint is beyond anything this plumber can figure. 

Lol, even as a guy who works in music industry, works on my farm, and does extensive home remodeling -- the first thing I thought of was this exact thing -- why in the hell would they run this angle directly for water to hit a seam? Makes zero sense. Water will find a way through the smallest hairline crack. Just common damn sense.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 267 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...