Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
This thread started Nov 14, 2018. It's been 18 months and windows are still leaking. 
 
We need a poll for what will come first:
 
1) Statement from GM on why the window frames crack and what the actual solution is
 
2) Vaccine for Covid19

[emoji23] Definitely the Vaccine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 2
Posted
On 5/13/2020 at 10:18 AM, hotrodz37 said:


Wow that’s bad. I went through a similar situation, bad caulk job that I got to stop leaking myself. Mine came along with damaged interior panels, paint chips and the sunroof shade no longer working.

Rear window was replaced this past week due to cracks in the frame all damaged panels replaced and feel like I’m whole again. The new tech did a fantastic job and there are actually less rattles in the truck then before which I am thankful for.

Poured all day yesterday and new window is dry - for now.

Fayuo E4 is the replacement and I have heard of people having good luck with those. If it begins to leak, most likely going to fix it myself this go round.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm tired of checking for water leakage every time it rains......after 14 mos. if it doesn't leak, it ain't gonna leak.

 

Fayuo E4 is for the glass and has nothing to do with the frame. Too bad not more pictures of the interior of the frame itself. And what's with this sealant? The number of casualties seem to be dropping off with time.......could it be that GM has already solved the problem but the solution too costly to retrolfit, let alone by half a$$ed attempts by inexperienced personnel at some dealerships? So all you get is the cheapest quick and dirty fix

 

I examined my frame and window carefully to compare what I could see in photos of failures. The top frame of my rear window is .065 cm or almost 3/10 of an inch thick at the spots where it typically cracks. Pretty thick to spontaneously crack....could be there is a rev on the frame and not the glass. In addition the whole frame is secured with black silicone rubber, not the snot they used to seal my leaking Silao Avalanche. Sealed to the body so tight there is no way in he!! that the dealer can remove that frame without breaking it apart and not practical to use the OEM silicone for field repair replacement installing a new frame because of prep time on surfaces, inconsistencies in bead placement and cure times........that's a job best suited for a GM robot on a freshly painted and cured surface and not some quickie job with a layer of crap they lay on top of leaking sealant that has already been compromised.

 

DSCN0948.JPG.51a11a92ad7678f784a4aaef7e05d786.JPGDSCN0950.JPG.b29127b1d48e45b963a3eb56c68d5ac5.JPGDSCN0953.JPG.1b705c81ab2140eb014466f53d6cfa86.JPG

 

 

Posted

Purchased a 19 Sierra at4, unfortunately I fell victim to this window leak. The truck is been at the dealership since May 8th, so its been about 10 days. Waiting on the bolts that hold the rear roof spoiler to the roof, my understanding is that the bolts have to be replaced after removing the spoiler. So that being said these bolts are on backorder with no ETA on arrival to the dealership. The truck does sit inside so I don't have to worry about more water getting in the truck, and they did give me a Camaro to drive in the mean time. But my question is has anyone had to wait for these bolts to come in and how long did it take to get some? 

Posted

Bamx31, iam with you there man, mine has to have the whole rear window replaced. Brand new 2020 LT TB, they have to basically disassemble the rear cabin, seats taken out, all trim removed, haven't even made the first payment. If they damage anything, they are replacing (plastic trim) or fixing it( paint damage). .

Posted

I'm not 100% sure, I'm assuming it has something to do with sealing the spoiler to the truck better than what the assembly line put on. 

Posted

@Nelly13 iam asking becuase i just fixed mine not too long ago, put a ton of blue gasket maker around the nut, hopefully it doesnt leak. The dealer gave me some nuts to put on there, he also said they are a one time thing. The ones he gave me didnt look like the ones that came off the truck(they were smaller and different design), so i just reused the originals, time will tell.

Posted

Yeah my service advisor told me they redesigned the nuts to pull the spoiler closer to help seal it better, as I've been told. Just hope they get the nuts soon. Driving a Camaro is fun but doesn't compare to these trucks. 

Posted

Nelly13 ill ask him to order me some also! Yeah these t1s are badass, i love my truck man, these little problems are annoying, but hell, nothings perfect or made to last forever. Lets enjoy it while we can. Hopefully you'll get yours back soon. 

Posted

I have a 2020 Silverado 1500 Z71 LT. It's certainly not a first-year problem because mine is leaking too. Same place everybody else is talking about, on the passenger, side upper right-hand corner of the rear window itself, not the slider. I live in California, the only way I noticed it was the hard water deposits dried up on the window after I washed it the second time. Not a major problem but has to be taken care of because it will get worse. I hate taking my Factory original built vehicle to those clowns at the dealer to half-ass a repair or r/r the window. It'll never be like the factory installation... But maybe that's a good thing!

Posted
2 hours ago, Nelly13 said:

Yeah my service advisor told me they redesigned the nuts to pull the spoiler closer to help seal it better, as I've been told. Just hope they get the nuts soon. Driving a Camaro is fun but doesn't compare to these trucks. 

Mind getting a part number for these redesigned nuts?  I hate walking into my dealership without something like a TSB or part number in hand and everyone claims to know nothing about it.  

Posted
21 hours ago, T1 slave said:

I have a 2020 Silverado 1500 Z71 LT. It's certainly not a first-year problem because mine is leaking too. Same place everybody else is talking about, on the passenger, side upper right-hand corner of the rear window itself, not the slider. I live in California, the only way I noticed it was the hard water deposits dried up on the window after I washed it the second time. Not a major problem but has to be taken care of because it will get worse. I hate taking my Factory original built vehicle to those clowns at the dealer to half-ass a repair or r/r the window. It'll never be like the factory installation... But maybe that's a good thing!

Then mine must be an odd one as that's the area I have been checking since I read this post, turns out mine is on the drivers side!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...