Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
4 minutes ago, Tomtom87 said:

So it seems now that the real source of the leak are these spoiler bolts that are not properly sealed with the sealant? So water passes through them and soakes the headliners?
 

That is correct.  And the TSB does not really address the spoiler bolts all that well.

Posted
33 minutes ago, Andrew David said:

That is correct.  And the TSB does not really address the spoiler bolts all that well.

Well that seems to be a much simpler solution than the original TSB. Would of saved alot of owners some headaches and trouble if thats the case?

 

Did GM redesign the bolts or do they instruct the dealers to apply sealant every time before the bolts are reinstalled?

Posted
2 minutes ago, Tomtom87 said:

Well that seems to be a much simpler solution than the original TSB. Would of saved alot of owners some headaches and trouble if thats the case?

 

Did GM redesign the bolts or do they instruct the dealers to apply sealant every time before the bolts are reinstalled?

If they do it obviously is not right since my truck has been back 4 times for it leaking lol

Posted
So it seems now that the real source of the leak are these spoiler bolts that are not properly sealed with the sealant? So water passes through them and soakes the headliners?
 

I’d say that the spoiler is ONE source of the leaks. The other is clearly the sliding window frame cracking.
Posted

Had my 19' Sierra repaired a while back. Was leaking on both sides, passenger side was worse. Dealership I use did a great job. Have to look really hard to see the sealer that was put on the back glass. The tech that works there does all of my warranty work on all my vehicles. He always does excellent work. Have never had to return any for the same issue twice. Has not leaked since repair was done. I did ask about the spoiler and if he thought that it could also be leaking from there. He said that he has not had one yet to be leaking from the spoiler, all he has seen were the back glass leaking. He has done so many he can't count.

Posted

Just got my 2019 sierra back from getting the TSB for the spoiler bolts done and low and behold it still leaks. I guess they didn't even check it before telling me it was fixed. It will be going back Monday morning. Looks like this is going to be a long aggravating road. I knew I should have just bought another Honda!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted
Just got my 2019 sierra back from getting the TSB for the spoiler bolts done and low and behold it still leaks. I guess they didn't even check it before telling me it was fixed. It will be going back Monday morning. Looks like this is going to be a long aggravating road. I knew I should have just bought another Honda!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Does anyone have this supposed TSB for the spoiler bolts? I have the one for the window, but didn’t know one existed for bolts on our trucks.
Posted

Never heard of the spoiler leak issue. As I stated in my earlier post, the tech I use said he has not had one in with the spoiler leaking, it has always been the rear glass leaking, caused by cracks in the plastic frame that is sandwiched between the body and the glass. Not saying they don't leak, but the tech that did mine said none of the spoilers were the issue, and he has done a lot of these trucks.

Posted (edited)

So my rear window is cracked but i sealed it up and the spoiler bolts, it does not leak anymore. my dealer said he would replace the window he has seen where the plastic frame is cracked in 3 places. Is it just going to crack again if i get it replaced? Or should i just go ahead and do it. Id hate to see my interior get torn up just for the window frame to crack again. Thanks in advanced fellas and hope yall get yours fixed.

Edited by abraham Lincoln
Posted
1 hour ago, abraham Lincoln said:

So my rear window is cracked but i sealed it up and the spoiler bolts, it does not leak anymore. my dealer said he would replace the window he has seen where the plastic frame is cracked in 3 places. Is it just going to crack again if i get it replaced? Or should i just go ahead and do it. Id hate to see my interior get torn up just for the window frame to crack again. Thanks in advanced fellas and hope yall get yours fixed.

Nobody can answer until GM comes clean on why they are cracking.

Posted
1 minute ago, UGADawgs said:

Nobody can answer until GM comes clean on why they are cracking.

So you're saying its pretty much pointless, it'll just crack again? 

Posted
13 minutes ago, abraham Lincoln said:

So you're saying its pretty much pointless, it'll just crack again? 

I am saying that only GM knows and won't say.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,979
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    rayredbone
    Newest Member
    rayredbone
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 441 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...