Rear window leak

UGADawgs · March 31, 2021

That's why I'm going to order one with a solid rear glass and no sunroof after they fix the rusty rear ends.

todd308 · March 31, 2021

Picked mine up for the rear window leak fix this evening, there's so much sealant balled up in the gap between the top of the rear window and spoiler, and smeared on the window/spoiler I hope there was still some left to fix the actual leak!. Talk about piss poor workmanship.

JohnH4260 · March 31, 2021

1 hour ago, todd308 said:

Picked mine up for the rear window leak fix this evening, there's so much sealant balled up in the gap between the top of the rear window and spoiler, and smeared on the window/spoiler I hope there was still some left to fix the actual leak!. Talk about piss poor workmanship.

Did they remove the top trim piece with the center mounted brake light, or just inject sealer between the plastic spoiler and glass? Then try and clean it up afterwards.

Jav_eee · March 31, 2021

2015-up

I’m a member of the Ford forums and leaky rear windows are hardly brought up. Like, since joining 2 months ago I haven’t seen one post about them. My opinion is that the GM trucks leak a hell of a lot more than the Fords.

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Transient · March 31, 2021

I’m a member of the Ford forums and leaky rear windows are hardly brought up. Like, since joining 2 months ago I haven’t seen one post about them. My opinion is that the GM trucks leak a hell of a lot more than the Fords.

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I suspect Facebook fact checkers will that such a comment as false, [emoji38]

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LightProbs · March 31, 2021

Still no fixes other than the patch jobs from the dealership or DIY? This worries me; ordered my 2021 Sierra Elevation on the 15th...

todd308 · March 31, 2021

6 hours ago, JohnH4260 said:

Did they remove the top trim piece with the center mounted brake light, or just inject sealer between the plastic spoiler and glass? Then try and clean it up afterwards.

Yeah they did remove it, you can see inside on the seatbelt slot panel and all the blue crumbs (headliner insulation maybe?) inside on the back seats they were definitely inside messing around. Thankfully they didn't wreck anything inside.

Can't say as I'm impressed overall, with GM either. I had them check out squealing brakes while it was in there. They could reproduce the issue repeatedly at all 4 wheels. The repair order says they called technical assistance and "found they deemed it normal operation"

todd308 · March 31, 2021

2 hours ago, LightProbs said:

Still no fixes other than the patch jobs from the dealership or DIY? This worries me; ordered my 2021 Sierra Elevation on the 15th...

Yep, first time they try the sealant gimmick, if that doesn't work they evidently replace the rear window, which is what should be done the first time. 2021 owners are reporting the issue as well on the facebook groups, both US and Mexico made trucks. I'm sure it's cheaper for GM to pay a tech $15/hr and $13 for a tube of Kent sealant and hope it works at least long enough that you get beyond 3yr/36,000, then the correct fix is on your dime. Enough guys report that the sealant fix either doesn't work, or only works for awhile that it's clearly a bandaid fix.

Pacfanweb · March 31, 2021

9 hours ago, Jav_eee said:

I’m a member of the Ford forums and leaky rear windows are hardly brought up. Like, since joining 2 months ago I haven’t seen one post about them. My opinion is that the GM trucks leak a hell of a lot more than the Fords.

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Maybe the new GM's leak worse now. They've only had this window setup for 2 years now. (3 model years, I guess)

But I am a water leak/wind noise/sunroof repair specialist, and 2 Ford dealers locally are my biggest customers, and I can tell you without hesitation that OVERALL...not just talking the back glass only, but OVERALL LEAKS, it's not even close. F150's leak like it's a contest to see how many they can have. And I love them for it.

The only consistent leaks I see in GM trucks are the shark fins (pre-2019) and back glasses (now), which are turning out to be a pretty big issue. Other than that, on the GM's you only see the odd sunroof drain, or body seam, etc...same random stuff you see on anything else, but not much of it at all.

F150's leak from: Sunroofs. A/C drains (these FLOOD the interior). Rear window. Rear cab vents. Roof seams. Body plugs.

Combine that with the fact that their big panoramic sunroofs also break like someone gets paid for it.

And that's just the things from MY area of the repair field.

So yeah, the newer GM back glasses might be worse than the Fords...but overall leaks? They aren't.

And I can tell you this: Since Ford went to the aluminum body and the current style back window in 2015, I've diagnosed easily over 100 of them leaking that had to be replaced. That's me, just one person, at 2 dealerships. (they are big dealerships, in fairness) You know how many F-150's there are, so if I'm seeing that many, there are a LOT.

Details: On the 2015-up 150's, the sliding glass upper and lower "tracks" are GLUED to the window. Not part of the frame like they used to be. So the glue comes loose, water gets between the window and the track. Only possible repair is replace the glass. That's why they leak.
I will also say, I've seen a TON of them that leak a little....but maybe that particular truck had a bigger leak from the cabin vent, so I fixed that and told them to keep an eye on the glass. But many, many of them at least "seep", and the customers don't even know it.

So that's where I'm coming from when I say the GM's don't leak as much. Yeah, their back glasses might be worse, but overall, they are not.

Pacfanweb · March 31, 2021

4 hours ago, todd308 said:

Yep, first time they try the sealant gimmick, if that doesn't work they evidently replace the rear window, which is what should be done the first time. 2021 owners are reporting the issue as well on the facebook groups, both US and Mexico made trucks. I'm sure it's cheaper for GM to pay a tech $15/hr and $13 for a tube of Kent sealant and hope it works at least long enough that you get beyond 3yr/36,000, then the correct fix is on your dime. Enough guys report that the sealant fix either doesn't work, or only works for awhile that it's clearly a bandaid fix.

It IS kind of a bandaid.....HOWEVER: If you take the time and do it with with the Kent Hi Tech Clear sealer, it should last a LONG time.

Kent is great stuff. But you have to either be familiar with it as I am, or take a little extra time to "get it right" ....take a window tool (or even your little finger in a latex glove) and "work it around" to make sure it covers all the potential leak spots.

IF you do that, they don't come back. I've not had a single one come back from leaking at the top of the glass where that plastic piece cracked beneath it.

The TSB does say that they only "suggested" the Kent and other products might work. I think that's where you might get into trouble, if someone tries to use silicone or something else inappropriate. They might work, but they sure as hell won't look as good, as the awful pics a few posts behind this one indicate. That is TURRIBLE workmanship right there. I can't believe anyone let that go back to the customer like that.
I highly recommend the Kent sealer for this. Once you put it in there, it "flows out" a bit and has a nice, shiny finish to it. Looks far better for those eagle eye folks who want to get up next to the gap and see what was done.

The other thing is, the TSB only pays 1.9 hrs. I can beat that time, but you have to be humping to do it, and this is what I do. I can beat the time and you can't tell I've been there, other than your truck doesn't leak anymore...or if you stick your eye up to the gap between the window and spoiler and see the sealer.

A tech in the shop who only does one here and there, he's probably not going to be able to beat the time, and not going to be happy about it, and that can affect workmanship. YMMV, as always, but it varies more with many different techs doing the same repair than if you use a specialist or glass company.

But that's just my opinion.

JohnH4260 · March 31, 2021

3 minutes ago, Pacfanweb said:

It IS kind of a bandaid.....HOWEVER: If you take the time and do it with with the Kent Hi Tech Clear sealer, it should last a LONG time.

Kent is great stuff. But you have to either be familiar with it as I am, or take a little extra time to "get it right" ....take a window tool (or even your little finger in a latex glove) and "work it around" to make sure it covers all the potential leak spots.

IF you do that, they don't come back. I've not had a single one come back from leaking at the top of the glass where that plastic piece cracked beneath it.

The TSB does say that they only "suggested" the Kent and other products might work. I think that's where you might get into trouble, if someone tries to use silicone or something else inappropriate. They might work, but they sure as hell won't look as good, as the awful pics a few posts behind this one indicate. That is TURRIBLE workmanship right there. I can't believe anyone let that go back to the customer like that.
I highly recommend the Kent sealer for this. Once you put it in there, it "flows out" a bit and has a nice, shiny finish to it. Looks far better for those eagle eye folks who want to get up next to the gap and see what was done.

The other thing is, the TSB only pays 1.9 hrs. I can beat that time, but you have to be humping to do it, and this is what I do. I can beat the time and you can't tell I've been there, other than your truck doesn't leak anymore...or if you stick your eye up to the gap between the window and spoiler and see the sealer.

A tech in the shop who only does one here and there, he's probably not going to be able to beat the time, and not going to be happy about it, and that can affect workmanship. YMMV, as always, but it varies more with many different techs doing the same repair than if you use a specialist or glass company.

But that's just my opinion.

How difficult is it to remove the headliner in the rear to get access to the spoiler bolts? And after the job, do you have to put on new spoiler bolts so the bolts don’t become a leak point? Thanks.

Pacfanweb · March 31, 2021

9 hours ago, Jav_eee said:

I’m a member of the Ford forums and leaky rear windows are hardly brought up. Like, since joining 2 months ago I haven’t seen one post about them. My opinion is that the GM trucks leak a hell of a lot more than the Fords.

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https://www.f150forum.com/f118/rear-window-loose-leaking-431738/

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/2015-f150-fx4-supercrew-rear-window-leaking-326564/

Multiple other links for window leaks in that thread

https://www.f150forum.com/f2/2015-lariat-rear-sliding-window-leak-310443/

https://www.f150forum.com/f12/rear-power-sliding-window-top-track-loose-418676/

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/sliding-window-gap-453048/

I could keep going, but trust me when I tell you, "it's a thing". Might not be as bad as the GM truck windows, but it's significant.

JohnH4260 · March 31, 2021

How difficult is it to remove the headliner in the rear to get access to the spoiler bolts? And after the job, do you have to put on new spoiler bolts so the bolts don’t become a leak point? Thanks.

Pacfanweb · March 31, 2021

1 minute ago, JohnH4260 said:

How difficult is it to remove the headliner in the rear to get access to the spoiler bolts? And after the job, do you have to put on new spoiler bolts so the bolts don’t become a leak point? Thanks.

Not bad. You take the 2 coat hooks loose. Remove the C pillars. Pop the headliner down, you have to kind of get your hands up over the headliner and "help" the clips break free for the overhead light. Then you just kind of bend it down and you can get at the bolts/nuts.

The TSB says replace the nuts, because the new nuts have new sealer on them...I guess they don't trust random techs all over the country to put new sealer on the old nuts, lol.
But if you have enough sense to reseal the nuts, you don't need the new ones. Plus, I seal the holes from the outside while I have it off. Just makes sense to me.
To seal the nuts on the inside, (which I still do even though I also seal it on the outside) I use 3M Windo Weld Ribbon Sealer, 08612. Just clip off a small piece and kind of wrap it around the stud, then run the nuts down and it's sealed forever.

To prep the "channel" at the top of the window for sealer, I take a folded up blue (can get them anywhere) shop paper towel soaked in brake cleaner. Push it down in the gap and use a screwdriver or plastic interior tool to run it back and forth to get all the dirt.

Note: No matter what you use for solvent, do NOT get it on the outside of the plastic trim over the sliding glass. The shiny part. It will dull it and it won't ever be shiny again. So don't let your paper towel touch that. Otherwise, it won't hurt the paint or the glass.

diyer2 · March 31, 2021

While I feel your pain for this problem I will add this.

My 93 Silvy had a manual sliding rear window. It leaked a little water but never sealed good enough to stop air noise. I masked it off and sealed it shut with 100% Silicone clear. No problem for many years.

Wouldn't have a rear slider even though it's a nice feature. Not needed with A/C IMO.