Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
22 minutes ago, BamaBen said:

Mine went in for the 5th repair attempt yesterday.  This time they're replacing the rear window with a new one and they said they're gong to redo the spoiler for a 4th time.  I'm going to ask them for a water hose before I ever leave the lot.

 

Thanks to @Jeepincbum55 I'll make sure I check the level on the rear window replacement when I pick it up. 

What is up with my account?   oye.  It appears my tapatalk account for this site is out of sync with my browser account.   Anywho....  Jeepincbum11 and 55 are me   :) 

 

As for the GAP.  It was a huge difference between left and right.  You can see the frame behind the window near the drivers side top of the glass compared to the passenger side.   The arrows are sitting on the spoiler where the spoiler stops and the window is supposed to start.

 

I asked the dealer if they were happy with the work of the third party glass shop and the service guy is like "HUH".   Service guy didn't even check it out.   So i walked him out and said, what are we going to do about this?   He didn't know how to reply.  So back to the dealer it goes to get the window removed and or reset or replaced.

 

What sucks is this one doesn't leak (YET)  :) 

 

 

gap.jpg

gap2.jpg

Posted
Went in for my first rear window leak repair job last week, service rep said they've done a few now with success. 
The work invoice shows they applied hi-tech sealer to top of rear window and redid the spoiler bolts...per Chevy Bulletin 18-NA-383. 
Still leaking as much now (if not more) when I washed it a few days later.  Scheduled to return next week for round two! 
 
THIS SUCKS CHEVROLET, IT"S A DAMN SHAME....YOU ALMOST BUILT A GREAT TRUCK!
 
Considering all the comments and failed repair attempts I'm losing more confidence in CHEVROLET with every post!! 
I'll be spreading the word to be on the lookout with every Silverado owner I speak to! 
 
GREAT MARKETING CONCEPT, CHEVROLET!!!!! 



GM*** owners. It’s both Chevy and GMC trucks that leak


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
Posted

So my saga may have finally ended...

 

After the 5th repair attempt, it is NOT leaking.  They replaced the entire back glass and remounted the spoiler again.  After major rain here all day, it bone dry in the cab.  I did check the glass install and it's level and square.  The only different thing that I can see is a bead of clear sealant was run between the top of the glass and the cab frame.  You wouldn't notice it if you didn't know it was there.

 

So maybe...just maybe...my 2 year issue is over.  We'll see how long it holds up.

 

As for GM, they have until the 26th to respond to our demand letter.  I will have to decide to move forward with a suit or drop the case if I don't hear from them after Monday.  It's been in repair for 41 days total, which triggers the law in Alabama.

Posted

Lots of rain today. Mines still dry. Fingers crossed.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

Posted
So my saga may have finally ended...
 
After the 5th repair attempt, it is NOT leaking.  They replaced the entire back glass and remounted the spoiler again.  After major rain here all day, it bone dry in the cab.  I did check the glass install and it's level and square.  The only different thing that I can see is a bead of clear sealant was run between the top of the glass and the cab frame.  You wouldn't notice it if you didn't know it was there.
 
So maybe...just maybe...my 2 year issue is over.  We'll see how long it holds up.
 
As for GM, they have until the 26th to respond to our demand letter.  I will have to decide to move forward with a suit or drop the case if I don't hear from them after Monday.  It's been in repair for 41 days total, which triggers the law in Alabama.
Maybe you finally got a Bama fan to fix your truck instead of somebody who supports Auburn or LSU

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Haha 2
Posted

Just came across this again after testing it several times with no leak and washed my truck not to long after seeing this poll, now it's leaking on the passenger side. I don't see any damage to the headliner, or carpet on inspection just a small leak from the rail for the slider.

 

The truck is a 1/20 build Silverado RST with rear slider and defrost.

 

I also noticed 9 cracks, yes NINE CRACKS!, on the rail visible from the inside of the truck when looking at the slider from the passenger side.

 

I never go in that seat so I don't know when it started, all I know is the last time I inspected it was in February/March of this year with no cracks or leak and now yesterday found them. Hopefully it just started and this is resolved quickly.

I hope the dealer can see it today so it can get parked inside or plastic covered, they have to call me to schedule it because of the potential service time, can't just walk in unfortunately.

 

Ugh. Fingers crossed that it will be replaced due to being able to see cracks and the new bolts installed for the spoiler since they aren't reusable.

 

Posted

Mine goes back in to the dealer tomorrow. I took it there after telling them the problem, last week. They called me first thing in the morning and tell me there’s a TSB for that problem (no kidding) and they have to order bolts.

So I drove it in there, left it overnight for them to do that!!!!!?!??!.

Anyway, bolts are in. Getting “fixed” tomorrow. Why do I get the feeling this is the beginning of a long painful saga?

Hope I’m wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I read thru the thread pretty extensively since my leak started. Ugh my luck.

I really don't want to go down lemon road with this truck over something so simple but yet obviously something gm is somehow struggling with.

I lemoned my 2018 f150 and got my 2020 rst. I LOVE THIS TRUCK so much more then the Ford and don't want to lose it over this crap, but if it isn't fixed under nj lemon law guidelines then it may be a last resort. I have a year and 14k miles left so there's hope, I had 4 months from issue continuation on the f150 and just dumped it.

 

So my observation seems to be: 

2 leaks, 1 on the broken slider or 1 in the spoiler. The second of which is less common.

A select number of leaks are fixed with the sealant, but some seem to leak still

Most seem ok with a replaced window provided it's installed professionally

Others get relief from the non slider being installed.

 

So with what is going on with my truck I hope that the window is replaced from the get go. 9 cracks are visible inside the cab and went there when tested last month out of precaution or even visible in the past rain storms. I then would like to see the tsb done on the new window.

 

If that fails then I will try and either get it fixed again or just shell out the 500ish bucks for the non slider from a local glass shop. That seems to be the best fix to the crap issue if the new window fails imo and I didn't even want the slider, I just wanted Sirius and the garage opener lol.

 

So for those that had gone with the non slider option, out of preparedness I have a few questions. @Leevon I saw you did this. Any news?

1, what did you pay?

2, how has it helt up?

3, did you have to modify a wiring harness or just pull the fuse for the slider?

 

I just want a confirmation on that stuff so I know what needs to be done in a worst case scenario so I can get my truck back.

Thanks in advance

Edited by Bigfoot98
More info
Posted
3 hours ago, Bigfoot98 said:

I read thru the thread pretty extensively since my leak started. Ugh my luck.

I really don't want to go down lemon road with this truck over something so simple but yet obviously something gm is somehow struggling with.

I lemoned my 2018 f150 and got my 2020 rst. I LOVE THIS TRUCK so much more then the Ford and don't want to lose it over this crap, but if it isn't fixed under nj lemon law guidelines then it may be a last resort. I have a year and 14k miles left so there's hope, I had 4 months from issue continuation on the f150 and just dumped it.

 

So my observation seems to be: 

2 leaks, 1 on the broken slider or 1 in the spoiler. The second of which is less common.

A select number of leaks are fixed with the sealant, but some seem to leak still

Most seem ok with a replaced window provided it's installed professionally

Others get relief from the non slider being installed.

 

So with what is going on with my truck I hope that the window is replaced from the get go. 9 cracks are visible inside the cab and went there when tested last month out of precaution or even visible in the past rain storms. I then would like to see the tsb done on the new window.

 

If that fails then I will try and either get it fixed again or just shell out the 500ish bucks for the non slider from a local glass shop. That seems to be the best fix to the crap issue if the new window fails imo and I didn't even want the slider, I just wanted Sirius and the garage opener lol.

 

So for those that had gone with the non slider option, out of preparedness I have a few questions. @Leevon I saw you did this. Any news?

1, what did you pay?

2, how has it helt up?

3, did you have to modify a wiring harness or just pull the fuse for the slider?

 

I just want a confirmation on that stuff so I know what needs to be done in a worst case scenario so I can get my truck back.

Thanks in advance

I did it myself, so the cost was the window and materials, if I recall  less than $300.  If you're not experienced with this kind of DIY I would find a glass company.  There are some specialty tools.  I sold the truck, but I am 100% sure it was a permanent fix.  No mods, the window regulator / cable assembly got thrown in the trash so no need to pull a fuse.  Hope that helps.  This is nuclear option though, if you're willing to go that route, just seal it up correctly first.  IT CAN BE DONE.  The dealers are just doing a piss poor job.  

Posted

Dropped mine off this morning. Gave me an Equinox...better than the Encore I got last time but I still can’t tow my damn boat. Supposed to be 81 degrees tomorrow. 

Posted

Just got an update for my truck.

Even with 9 cracks gm won't approve a new window. Cheap c@*&suckers.

So they are having their body guys do the window seal tsb.

 

They also found the previous dealer that I had issues with didn't properly fix their screwed up alignment. Instead of correcting the out toe on the right side they put them both out to make the truck go straight. So now for the bast 1.8k miles I was driving on the outside edges of the tires so they are rotating and did an alignment on my dime again but they gave me the report and she is perfectly straight. And I never have to pay for an alignment again so that's nice too.

 

They said they'll have the new bolts tomorrow but the seal is complete and it will be water tested after the cure time. Honestly don't know what to think about they whole ordeal. Really wanted a new window and the tsb done to it but we'll see what happens.

Posted

Thanks @Leevon

Hope it doesn't come to it but of I have to I will have the local glass shop do it.

I want to keep the truck and if it means shelling out 500 with labor to keep it I'll just keep calling gm and harass them into free stuff or something if possible and have it done.

 

It's just such a stupid f@<×÷$# design they made with the window frame and I can't figure out why they won't fix it. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Bigfoot98 said:

Even with 9 cracks gm won't approve a new window.

Wow.  That's hard to believe.  Is there any way to escalate that decision to a higher level?  I know once, a long time ago, there was something like a regional manager that was the next step if the dealer wasn't getting it right.  Probably don't exist any longer, but unless the cracks are just cosmetic, which I can't see how that could be, I can understand why they won't replace the assembly.  Unless, maybe they have none?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...