Jump to content

Rear window leak

Demon
 Share

Recommended Posts

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted
Don't believe I would use that. I have thought about it, though.
It certainly flows.  
Edit: the more I think about it, I don't reckon it would hurt. Kind of an expensive option, but if it works, it works. I would love to see if somebody used it, what the finished product looked like.
Don't know how much is in those, it might take two of those kits to do the whole thing. That's a pretty big gap to fill.
 
First one I did, I used just a squeeze tube of the Kent sealer. Took the whole tube. And it was a huge pain to squeeze out of there. I started buying them in caulking tubes after that. That's much easier


Someone on here used it that’s why I saved it not sure what post number it was


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Replies 3.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Rocz3cqg
Rocz3cqg

Sliding Glass or / and Stop Light Module reported Leaking Situation             Contacts

ShamrockShooter
ShamrockShooter

Well my 2019 early build leaker was replaced with 2020 hopefully not leaker. No signs of an leaks on the window or headliner of the 2020 so fingers crossed. Very impressed with the 10 speed after th

Thomcat
Thomcat

No leaker here so can't do a 100% verification, but the problem seems to be with the spoiler design, regardless of weather the sealer leaks or not, and any cracks in the trim make it worse.  

Posted Images

Pacfanweb Enthusiast

Pacfanweb

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 3/7/2021 at 7:28 PM, 2016 Sierra Owner said:

Only 1 slight problem with your pic of where the actual leak was. It may have been there but, I'll bet it was actually somewhere else on the window. When Mine was leaking (yellow arrow) the was about 3-4 inches to the left (leak was on the drivers side) of where you are pointing. I actually lifted up the headliner a bit and saw the water coming in. The window track that you see in your picture however acts as a gutter carrying the water (yellow line) to the left or right till it ends. That is what the arrow on your picture is pointing at. The end of the gutter in other words. Now when I had the TSB done at the dealer the leak actually moved from 6-8 inches from the top corner to the water coming in at the very top right corner. (orange arrow) 

image.png.c8c42373308b011ee6070cc89b6ebd91.png

 

Looking at that pic, that plastic channel where you have the yellow line, that's what cracks, and then it leaks.  Usually it's either cracked already in multiple places, or it's getting ready to be.  Usually it leaks just as your arrows show...HOWEVER, sometimes the plastic cracks all the way and you can actually see the crack below where your yellow line is.   And it'll leak right at that spot, too and won't usually run along the top of that ledge and down in the corner. 


I HAVE seen water come from where the orange arrow is.   That's just the windshield urethane there.   It's really hard to seal effectively.  When I see one of those, I just tell them to put a glass in it.  


Back to the plastic channel:  It is obviously glues to the glass.  Then the urethane bead goes between it and the body.   So when that plastic cracks, water runs down inside the crack and into your truck.   Pretty much the same concept that the Ford trucks are dealing with as well.   Except there's no getting to the top of their glasses to try and seal them. 

The sealer basically covers the top edge of that plastic channel, and as long as it stays adhered, it should seal it.   
As I've said, I have only had one come back on me...and the TSB says if the sealer doesn't work, then replace the glass.  They're just trying not replace as many as possible.  Can't blame them, it's roughly a 1000 dollar hit every time.   So even if half of them come back, they're saving money, and getting the trucks repaired faster as well. 

 

I suppose your mileage may vary depending on who's doing the repair, as to how it looks afterwards.  I strive to make it so you can't tell I've been there.  I usually can find some little sign that I was there, but most others will not see it.   But that's just me.   Nobody's perfect. 

Edited by Pacfanweb
  • Like 1
Spyderwebb Enthusiast

Spyderwebb

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, Pacfanweb said:

Looking at that pic, that plastic channel where you have the yellow line, that's what cracks, and then it leaks.  Usually it's either cracked already in multiple places, or it's getting ready to be.  Usually it leaks just as your arrows show...HOWEVER, sometimes the plastic cracks all the way and you can actually see the crack below where your yellow line is.   And it'll leak right at that spot, too and won't usually run along the top of that ledge and down in the corner. 


I HAVE seen water come from where the orange arrow is.   That's just the windshield urethane there.   It's really hard to seal effectively.  When I see one of those, I just tell them to put a glass in it.  


Back to the plastic channel:  It is obviously glues to the glass.  Then the urethane bead goes between it and the body.   So when that plastic cracks, water runs down inside the crack and into your truck.   Pretty much the same concept that the Ford trucks are dealing with as well.   Except there's no getting to the top of their glasses to try and seal them. 

The sealer basically covers the top edge of that plastic channel, and as long as it stays adhered, it should seal it.   
As I've said, I have only had one come back on me...and the TSB says if the sealer doesn't work, then replace the glass.  They're just trying not replace as many as possible.  Can't blame them, it's roughly a 1000 dollar hit every time.   So even if half of them come back, they're saving money, and getting the trucks repaired faster as well. 

 

I suppose your mileage may vary depending on who's doing the repair, as to how it looks afterwards.  I strive to make it so you can't tell I've been there.  I usually can find some little sign that I was there, but most others will not see it.   But that's just me.   Nobody's perfect. 

Wish I could have you work on mine...or at a minimum train the guy who ends up doing mine!  Sounds like you are well versed on the repair, thanks for sharing your knowledge and results

Pacfanweb Enthusiast

Pacfanweb

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Spyderwebb said:

Wish I could have you work on mine...or at a minimum train the guy who ends up doing mine!  Sounds like you are well versed on the repair, thanks for sharing your knowledge and results

It's all I do.  Self-employed, water leak, wind noise, sunroof repairs.  Currently I only go to one GM dealership.  The Ford dealers keep me too busy to do much more, lol

  • Like 1
SilverBlahdo Enthusiast

SilverBlahdo

Posted
Posted

Just got my 21’ z71 LT back from the dealer. Replaced the whole rear window at 350mi from a leak drivers side stating that there was missing  sealant at the top from the factory

Z71RAD88 Enthusiast

Z71RAD88

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, SilverBlahdo said:

Just got my 21’ z71 LT back from the dealer. Replaced the whole rear window at 350mi from a leak drivers side stating that there was missing  sealant at the top from the factory

 

I wonder if this sealant is in tight supply and they’re just spreading out the very little supply they do have on hand to get the trucks out the door? 

gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted

Happy to report that my 21 denali factory rear window did not leak while driving in rain that was a combination of wiper delay and wipers at high speed that wasn't fast enough for 8 hours driving thru TN, VA and IL yesterday at interstate speeds.

 

Fingers crossed or waiting for the time bomb. Time will tell.

  • Like 1
WWIII_REEF New Member

WWIII_REEF

Posted
Posted

Back in the club again after a year and a half dry. I had water the 2nd day I owned the truck with less than 50 miles on it. 2019 ltz. Window was replaced and lasted till now, about 18 months later.

  • Sad 2
BamaBen Enthusiast

BamaBen

Posted
Posted

Been a lurker for years.  I joined Gm-Trucks today just to reply to the saga of rear leaks.  

 

Bought my LT in Feb 2019.  

Apr 2019 noticed water on top of rear seat during a rainstorm in Tampa FL

May 2019 repaired in Virginia. R&R rear spoiler, new sealant and new bolt seals seemed to fix it.  Moved to Huntsville AL

June 2020 noticed a little drop of water on top of rear seat.  Told myself to get it checked but we're in lockdown for a while

Sept 2020 after summer of stay at home, finally got it to the shop.  Water line on headliner all the way across, 8 inches from the window. Dealer R&R rear window and cleaned headliner.  Looked good as new

Oct 2020 noticed a dollar-sized water stain on driver side rear headliner just above window.  Took it back to dealer.  R&R spoiler again.  They left it in their wash booth for 4 hrs and said no leaks.

Feb 25 2021 Cleaning up the cab when saw a large wet spot in same area as Oct repair.  Called dealer and they said bring it back.  R&R spoiler and said the rubber seal around one bolt was cracked.  Tech had over-torqued on last repair.  Waiting for sealant from GM

Mar 18 2021 after 3 weeks in the shop they reseal and drove it in major rain storms with headliner removed on Mar 17.  Service manager was in back seat and got soaked.  Said it was way worse when driving than when parked.  GM inspector has been requested.  

 

Now I wait...

 

 

  • Sad 1
gemarsh Senior Enthusiast

gemarsh

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, BamaBen said:

Been a lurker for years.  I joined Gm-Trucks today just to reply to the saga of rear leaks.  

 

Bought my LT in Feb 2019.  

Apr 2019 noticed water on top of rear seat during a rainstorm in Tampa FL

May 2019 repaired in Virginia. R&R rear spoiler, new sealant and new bolt seals seemed to fix it.  Moved to Huntsville AL

June 2020 noticed a little drop of water on top of rear seat.  Told myself to get it checked but we're in lockdown for a while

Sept 2020 after summer of stay at home, finally got it to the shop.  Water line on headliner all the way across, 8 inches from the window. Dealer R&R rear window and cleaned headliner.  Looked good as new

Oct 2020 noticed a dollar-sized water stain on driver side rear headliner just above window.  Took it back to dealer.  R&R spoiler again.  They left it in their wash booth for 4 hrs and said no leaks.

Feb 25 2021 Cleaning up the cab when saw a large wet spot in same area as Oct repair.  Called dealer and they said bring it back.  R&R spoiler and said the rubber seal around one bolt was cracked.  Tech had over-torqued on last repair.  Waiting for sealant from GM

Mar 18 2021 after 3 weeks in the shop they reseal and drove it in major rain storms with headliner removed on Mar 17.  Service manager was in back seat and got soaked.  Said it was way worse when driving than when parked.  GM inspector has been requested.  

 

Now I wait...

 

 

I read this as... with the headliner removed and someone in the backseat, in the rain, leaking, looking for it, can't find the leak?

bfontenot9 Enthusiast

bfontenot9

Posted
Posted
41 minutes ago, BamaBen said:

Been a lurker for years.  I joined Gm-Trucks today just to reply to the saga of rear leaks.  

 

Bought my LT in Feb 2019.  

Apr 2019 noticed water on top of rear seat during a rainstorm in Tampa FL

May 2019 repaired in Virginia. R&R rear spoiler, new sealant and new bolt seals seemed to fix it.  Moved to Huntsville AL

June 2020 noticed a little drop of water on top of rear seat.  Told myself to get it checked but we're in lockdown for a while

Sept 2020 after summer of stay at home, finally got it to the shop.  Water line on headliner all the way across, 8 inches from the window. Dealer R&R rear window and cleaned headliner.  Looked good as new

Oct 2020 noticed a dollar-sized water stain on driver side rear headliner just above window.  Took it back to dealer.  R&R spoiler again.  They left it in their wash booth for 4 hrs and said no leaks.

Feb 25 2021 Cleaning up the cab when saw a large wet spot in same area as Oct repair.  Called dealer and they said bring it back.  R&R spoiler and said the rubber seal around one bolt was cracked.  Tech had over-torqued on last repair.  Waiting for sealant from GM

Mar 18 2021 after 3 weeks in the shop they reseal and drove it in major rain storms with headliner removed on Mar 17.  Service manager was in back seat and got soaked.  Said it was way worse when driving than when parked.  GM inspector has been requested.  

 

Now I wait...

 

 

Curious....I know you are still within your bumper to bumper warranty by years....  but are you still within your bumper to bumper on the mileage? 

BamaBen Enthusiast

BamaBen

Posted
Posted (edited)

@gemarshThey didn't elaborate on the water leak while driving, but that's my guess too. 

 

Did just get a call saying they're replacing the entire back window this time since it was leaking from the sliding window plastic crack that has been previously talked about on here.

 

For the spoiler, my guess is that when the tech over-torqued the spoiler bolts, he damaged the frame of the roof as well, and that's why it won't seal correctly now.  Service manager said the spoiler torque specs were a recent notice they received from GM. 

 

@bfontenot9  Thankfully yes...31K

Edited by BamaBen
update
econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted

Wow @BamaBen what a saga. I feel your pain in all that. Thanks for sharing it. 

 

Stories like this is why I just leave my slight-leaker alone. It seems like interventions lead to more interventions with this particular issue. 🤦🏻‍♂️ 

RyanbabZ71 Senior Enthusiast

RyanbabZ71

Posted
Posted

Have been through 3 heavy rain storms (truck has sat out)since the repair and no leaks we will see if it holds up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...