Jump to content

Anyone start tearing down a 2019 to install sound system?

WhineyTTwins
 Share

Recommended Posts

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted
25 minutes ago, Zelas said:

I used the JL Audio Fix 82 to fix the factory radio sound. It has signal sensing and turns on the amps. There is a a fuse box on passanger side dash that you can to get ign wire to rurn on amps. 

 

In My Custom WT model had plenty of room to put the amps on the rear wall. I removed some of the foam and went in with no problems. I put all of my equipment there.

 

Hey thanks for the info. 

 

My JL HD 1200 has high-level inputs. I used a LC2i in my last Sierra, but I’m thinking of skipping it this time to keep it simpler. You mentioned you had to correct the factory sound. So should I stick with the LC2i? Thanks again. 

  • Replies 635
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Chris walker
Chris walker

I fiber glassed my own enclosure for the AT4. I learned a lot of useful information if anyone else decides to glass a box in the new series of trucks. I've included a list of materials, goals, lessons

Chris walker
Chris walker

Ron,   You are correct. The Bose amp is behind the rear seat and that is where you will connect for the AT4 and the Denali. The non Bose system connection is at the firewall (you will not us

MadCaddie
MadCaddie

The Bose system does not sound good in the 2019s.  For the average listner they will be fine I guess but definitely not what I'd call good.  Not that any bose system is great persay but it's disappoin

Posted Images

Zelas Enthusiast

Zelas

Posted
Posted

I would use the LC2i. If you dont you will loose you sub woofer level as soon as you turn up the volume. If your radio has the bose sysyem. If it non bose.  just use Hi level in.

ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, 96TL said:

Also, it sounds like it’s not possible to mount an amp on the rear cab wall anymore? Is under the front seats the only option now? Thanks. 

I believe that the issue about not being able to mount the amps to the rear wall is mostly in the double/crew cab models. The regular cab models have folding seats and less 'stuff' mounted to the rear wall. The new rear double/crew seats are actually two separate pieces for the seat bottom and the seat back, making it a little more complicated to remove and your seat back can't fold down without severe modification anymore. If you remove the factory jute (foam sound deadener) from the rear wall you can get an amp near the bottom of the rear seat back on the driver side and, if you are replacing the whole Bose amplifier as well, you can mount an amp in place of the stock Bose amplifier.

 

Hear is a picture from this thread (page 7) by HTX '19 Black Widow of the rear wall:

 

IMG_5162.jpg.1fb6bb57fb8b2066bed40d17f2da2034.jpg

ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted

Has anyone located the factory common grounding stud in the rear cab of the crew cab (or one close to the rear wall)?

 

I want to put in as few holes as possible in the sheet metal and minimize the electrical resistance of using just any piece of sheet metal. I'd prefer using a factory grounding stud for the large gauge wires I'll be using for a system that will pull slightly over 350A at 13.8V. Otherwise, I have to run two more large gauge cables through the firewall and ground directly at the common point for the alternator and/or battery grounds. This is not preferred because I'm trying to minimize as much payload reduction as possible.

 

 

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted

I took a quick look under the hood today to find a place to get the power wire through. It looks harder than the previous generation. Where are you guys getting the wire through? Any empty grommets in the firewall that I’m not seeing? Thanks. 

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted

Nevermind. GM gave us two perfect blank grommets, one on each side of the truck on the firewall. 

white94rx Enthusiast

white94rx

Posted
Posted

I've got a single 10" Subthump box that I never used if anyone wants to buy it. My trucks rear window leaked and I got Chevy to buy it back. Upgraded to a 2500, which is previous body style, so this box isn't the right fit. Black carpet, single 10". Never even took it out of the box. For a T1 crew cab.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted

Anyone know the size of the torx bolts holding down the front seats? T50?

Darrenbie Enthusiast

Darrenbie

Posted
Posted

I did a simple install of a amp and 2 10"s. Used the groundshaker dual 10 downfire box and went with rockford for the amp and subs. Not touching the speakers yet. It sounds pretty good to me as it is now. Defenetly needed the extra thump.

  • Like 1
96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 7/16/2019 at 6:53 AM, 96TL said:

Anyone know the size of the torx bolts holding down the front seats? T50?

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

Edited by 96TL
ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, 96TL said:

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

Traditionally, get a AAA membership so that they bring the jack to you.

 

As far as anyone else, a locked toolbox in the bed of the truck is a viable option. Of course, this is a better option with a rolling bed cover that locks.

96TL Enthusiast

96TL

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, ApertureX said:

Traditionally, get a AAA membership so that they bring the jack to you.

 

As far as anyone else, a locked toolbox in the bed of the truck is a viable option. Of course, this is a better option with a rolling bed cover that locks.

 

I have roadside assistance through Geico, but still...

 

I managed to fit the lug nut wrench pouch behind the sub box, and I put the jack in a small Rotcho mechanics bag and stuck it in the center armrest. Works for me. 

 

System is rockin’.

 

Thanks all. 

Darrenbie Enthusiast

Darrenbie

Posted
Posted
22 hours ago, 96TL said:

 

To quote myself, the torx bolts are T50. 

 

What are you guys doing with the tire jack? Doesn’t fit with my Sub Thump box. 

I installed a swing case  on the bed of the truck. They go for about 200 bucks. I have the jack, lug nut wrench, small tool box, straps, rachet wrenches, zip ties and pliers in there. Awesome little box.

  • 4 weeks later...
Blk99cobra Enthusiast

Blk99cobra

Posted
Posted

I got a question for you guys i had a audio control 6 channel with dsp intalled and all my speakers upgraded with audison speakers the shop piggybacked off of my bose my amp to retain all of my factory functions my problem is when i took my truck to the dealer today to have the blue screen fixed when i put my truck in reverse and reprogram the torque module the truck wouldnt take any updates they tried twice and said it froze up both times but worked fine on another vehicle then they started saying the amp i had installed wasnt letting the truck accept the software updates and that warranty wouldnt cover it and told me to put it all back to stock then come back does this sound accurate or is the dealership overunning with ass clowns?

Zelas Enthusiast

Zelas

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Blk99cobra said:

I got a question for you guys i had a audio control 6 channel with dsp intalled and all my speakers upgraded with audison speakers the shop piggybacked off of my bose my amp to retain all of my factory functions my problem is when i took my truck to the dealer today to have the blue screen fixed when i put my truck in reverse and reprogram the torque module the truck wouldnt take any updates they tried twice and said it froze up both times but worked fine on another vehicle then they started saying the amp i had installed wasnt letting the truck accept the software updates and that warranty wouldnt cover it and told me to put it all back to stock then come back does this sound accurate or is the dealership overunning with ass clowns?

Man thats a tough one. Did thye use some sort of module to get the the signal to the amps ? Something like a PAC module or did they just tap into the bose amp wires?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Rattle in the rear!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I have 2 choices. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...