Jump to content

Factory GM spray in bedliner, just my thoughts on it.

Black02Silverado
 Share

Recommended Posts

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

Just a quick observation on the factory spray in bedliner.  After looking over my truck and installing the bed cover, here is my thoughts.

 

1. This factory or should I say GM SIBL is exactly what one would think, not a very high quality product.

2. It is very thin.

3. They didn't spray up under the bed rail.

4. It doesn't even looked like the bed was sanded.

 

I wish I had the option to not have it on the truck but it comes with the package.  I guess we will see how well it holds up.  I know you will ask, why do you need it sprayed up under the bed rail. I probably don't, but it could have at least went up a little higher under there than just cutting off at the bottom of where the rail edge hangs over into the bed, it isn't even painted black like the rest of the truck. Just the primer like what you see on the underside of the body.

 

It kind of looks like they take the truck, tape off everything but the bed and then robot arms come in and spray the liner and that is it, which is probably exactly how it is applied.  I wonder if they even sand the bed.

 

Again, just my thought on this.  Considering what one pays for these new vehicles, one would think there would be a little better quality on something like this.

  • Like 3
  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Black02Silverado
Black02Silverado

Just a quick observation on the factory spray in bedliner.  After looking over my truck and installing the bed cover, here is my thoughts.   1. This factory or should I say GM SIBL is exactl

Camario
Camario

Factory spray bed liner seems pretty tough in my truck. And I’ve thrown all sorts of things in there. Granted it’s a 2017 and not that old?

Grumpy Bear
Grumpy Bear

I was given the option to have it done at the dealership and after looking at the ones on the lot came to the same conclusion you have. Cheap job done with cheap materials without the proper prep work

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

I was given the option to have it done at the dealership and after looking at the ones on the lot came to the same conclusion you have. Cheap job done with cheap materials without the proper prep work.

 

That said the one thing I did like about the factory coat was the way the tailgate was masked for the floor. When Line-X did mine they sprayed so thick that the tailgate can no longer be adjusted dead flush. Most don't notice it but I do and it bugs me. The one place where the factory got cheap and it paid off.  

  • Like 2
SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted

Although only a little over a year old, my factory spray in liner has held up very well.  It's had numerous metal marine gas tanks slid across the back.  still looks like new, when cleaned up. 

Keta Enthusiast

Keta

Posted
Posted

I will agree that the product thickness seems less than my previous LINEX but it doesn't appear inferior to me. Coverage is adequate to provide protection and the adhesion seems fine. Personally, I installed a BedRug on my last truck as well as this one and for me, that's the way to go.

Loco-diablo Senior Enthusiast

Loco-diablo

Posted
Posted

I’ve had rhino liners in the past which I thought to be a bit too thick.
I like the factory one but it’s a bit slippery compared to the Rhino which was a little more rubbery/tacky.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

RivieraGS Enthusiast

RivieraGS

Posted
Posted

I have had Linex sprayed in four trucks by two different Linex dealers and none were sprayed under the bed rails.  I had to go back over those four trucks with cleaner or clay bar to remove their primer/preparation spray from the paint, glass etc.  My last two had the factory spray in liner and have not had any issues.

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted

Life is like a bunch of Factory GM Sprayed Bedliners…….. Ya Never Know What You're Gonna Get! :D

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
On ‎2‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 11:50 AM, Black02Silverado said:

Just a quick observation on the factory spray in bedliner.  After looking over my truck and installing the bed cover, here is my thoughts.

 

1. This factory or should I say GM SIBL is exactly what one would think, not a very high quality product.

2. It is very thin.

3. They didn't spray up under the bed rail.

4. It doesn't even looked like the bed was sanded.

 

I wish I had the option to not have it on the truck but it comes with the package.  I guess we will see how well it holds up.  I know you will ask, why do you need it sprayed up under the bed rail. I probably don't, but it could have at least went up a little higher under there than just cutting off at the bottom of where the rail edge hangs over into the bed, it isn't even painted black like the rest of the truck. Just the primer like what you see on the underside of the body.

 

It kind of looks like they take the truck, tape off everything but the bed and then robot arms come in and spray the liner and that is it, which is probably exactly how it is applied.  I wonder if they even sand the bed.

 

Again, just my thought on this.  Considering what one pays for these new vehicles, one would think there would be a little better quality on something like this.

 

I would imagine they are sanded.  Pretty sure they are all hand sprayed as well. 

 

GM does the liners off site.  Fort Wayne has a building a road over from the plant.  Ground Effects LTD is who sprays them for GM, Ultimate Linings is the brand.  Ultimate Linings also does the Ford and Ram spray liners. 

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Wintersun Enthusiast

Wintersun

Posted
Posted

My current truck has the GM drop-in bedliner and a spray in one would have been a better way to go. The bedliner cost me nothing as the dealer really wanted to move the truck. I would have an aftermarket guy do the spray-in lining and get a better job for the same price as the factory charges. 

 

A friend bought a commercial kit and made the cost back with the first two trucks he treated for the local dealer. Figure on about $30 worth of product with a $350 bedliner coating job.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, RivieraGS said:

I have had Linex sprayed in four trucks by two different Linex dealers and none were sprayed under the bed rails.  I had to go back over those four trucks with cleaner or clay bar to remove their primer/preparation spray from the paint, glass etc.  My last two had the factory spray in liner and have not had any issues.

The girl that prepped and shot my Line-X asked me how much I wanted done and did it. Full coverage plus the rear wheel wells. Stripped the wells,  bed and tailgate, prep and shoot. Zero overspray on any exterior surface.  Very nice job. She's moved on to another shop so I need to find a new dealer but the bumpers are next. Love this product. Not so much the dealer network granted, but there are good ones out there. Just have to find them. Job now three years old and looks new yet. Easy to clean. Did I mention I love this product? :D

  • Like 1
jlong1984 Enthusiast

jlong1984

Posted
Posted
On 2/13/2019 at 11:50 AM, Black02Silverado said:

I wish I had the option to not have it on the truck but it comes with the package.

 

You could get a "spray in bedliner delete" on the K2 High Country and Denali. Is that not a thing anymore? 

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You could get a "spray in bedliner delete" on the K2 High Country and Denali. Is that not a thing anymore? 

It wasn’t an option.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...