Jump to content

LIMELIGHT'S BUILD THREAD


Limelight

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello folks!

 

I just took delivery of my new truck- 2019 Silverado Crew Cab LTZ Z71 in Summit White!  I love this truck!  I would like to introduce myself...

 

I am coming from a well loved 2011 Toyota 4Runner which I modified extensively and had many, many adventures with off road. That thing was a tank- never back to the dealer in 155,000 miles!   My username on t4r.org was "Antman" and  my build thread has over 1 million views!   Very bittersweet leaving that forum and I met many friends along the way. I hope to be able to contribute to this community as I did over there- I am known for some off the wall ideas, lol.

 

The switch to the Chevy is one of necessity.  I need more towing capacity first and foremost, and not having a truck for hauling large items is a PITA sometimes.   I'm not really quite sure where this will go- I swore the 4Runner would stay stock, but that didn't happen at all!   I can't leave anything alone it seems but this Silverado is so nice!!   

 

Very minor stuff so far, but I've already removed the chin spoiler and tinted the front windows.  I've been scoping out places to mount my ARB onboard compressor as well.   I like to share my mods too- I made a ton of how-to writeups on t4r.

 

I look forward to interacting with all of you!  Pic of the night I took delivery, and my beloved 4Runner! (I am also known for very poor photography, lol)

 

-Jeff

FNGX1800.JPG

285.jpg

Posted

Welcome Jeff. Looking forward to the build! Already have it started! Post some of the 4runner too! I'd venture to the site, but I know I'll become intrigued and spend the night browsing haha. Anyway, enjoy the endless capabilities of a truck. I've clocked over 160k on my 15 Sierra. I'm sure your new truck is built at least a little better. Maintain it, drive it like you stole it, and repeat.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
47 minutes ago, Limelight said:

Hello folks!

 

I just took delivery of my new truck- 2019 Silverado Crew Cab LTZ Z71 in Summit White!  I love this truck!  I would like to introduce myself...

 

I am coming from a well loved 2011 Toyota 4Runner which I modified extensively and had many, many adventures with off road. That thing was a tank- never back to the dealer in 155,000 miles!   My username on t4r.org was "Antman" and  my build thread has over 1 million views!   Very bittersweet leaving that forum and I met many friends along the way. I hope to be able to contribute to this community as I did over there- I am known for some off the wall ideas, lol.

 

The switch to the Chevy is one of necessity.  I need more towing capacity first and foremost, and not having a truck for hauling large items is a PITA sometimes.   I'm not really quite sure where this will go- I swore the 4Runner would stay stock, but that didn't happen at all!   I can't leave anything alone it seems but this Silverado is so nice!!   

 

Very minor stuff so far, but I've already removed the chin spoiler and tinted the front windows.  I've been scoping out places to mount my ARB onboard compressor as well.   I like to share my mods too- I made a ton of how-to writeups on t4r.

 

I look forward to interacting with all of you!  Pic of the night I took delivery, and my beloved 4Runner! (I am also known for very poor photography, lol)

 

-Jeff

FNGX1800.JPG

285.jpg

Congratulations! She's a beaut!!

Posted

Hey Limelite, nice truck.  I have the ARB CKMTA12 I installed into my tool box in the back.  The problem is the wiring kit they provide is way too short.  I had to buy 8 AWG cable and make my own.   I plan on not using the switch they provide as I do not want that huge ugly thing anywhere in my nice interior..lol.  I have a factory switch bank i plan on using (separate thread here).  My question to you, if you have experience with these, is on the loom for the switch.  There is no relay.  Is there a relay by the compressors, or do i have to run the two switch wires from the unit to a relay before the switch?

 

When i hooked  up my light bar to these switches I needed relay.

Posted
On ‎3‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 9:17 PM, tooch420 said:

Hey Limelite, nice truck.  I have the ARB CKMTA12 I installed into my tool box in the back.  The problem is the wiring kit they provide is way too short.  I had to buy 8 AWG cable and make my own.   I plan on not using the switch they provide as I do not want that huge ugly thing anywhere in my nice interior..lol.  I have a factory switch bank i plan on using (separate thread here).  My question to you, if you have experience with these, is on the loom for the switch.  There is no relay.  Is there a relay by the compressors, or do i have to run the two switch wires from the unit to a relay before the switch?

 

When i hooked  up my light bar to these switches I needed relay.

Hey there!

 

Thanks for the compliment!   Their wiring harness was designed by some overthinking engineer- I took the whole thing apart and made a new one.  Did you see my other post?  I'll include the pic here in case you didn't.

 

I'm not finished, but yes, I ran 8 ga as well from a 50a circuit breaker mounted under the hood,  It ties into an aux fuse panel that will be used for future projects as well.  Now to answer your question, lol.

 

Yes, you will need a relay for the switch.  Basically you wire hot wire into switch (however you want to power it, ignition only or hot always).  This circuit should be protected by a 5a fuse as it's ultimately only switching the relay.  The output from the switch will plug into the ARB air solenoid.  The other terminal on the ARB solenoid will attach to the relay.  Ground the relay (and the switch if it's lit).  Main 8ga power goes into the relay (40a fused) and out directly to the compressor 10ga feed.  Black 10ga at compressor gets grounded.  It sounds like a lot but it's a very simple circuit.

 

In the pic my switch is mounted behind the compressor vertically, and I need to change the fuses.  Still a WIP.    Hope this helps you!

IMG_5075.JPG

IMG_5076.JPG

Posted

Welcome, hope your Chevy just as reliable as your 4Runner. Those are by far the best looking Toyotas to ever set rubber on the ground

Posted

Well, I now have onboard air!  My ARB CMKA12 compressor install is complete.

 

I decided to mount the compressor in the truck because it's subjected to much less heat than in the engine compartment.  I mounted it in the GM Accessories underseat storage bin.  I also ran 8ga power from the battery into the compartment to an auxiliary fuse panel.  I'll use this for future projects- specifically my ARB fridge mounted in the bed.  I like to do a lot of camping and once you get used to an onboard fridge it's hard to go back to a cooler!  Back on topic...

 

I ran a push button switch for the compressor relay in the compartment.  The compressor also has a pressure switch so it cycles on and off as needed.  For those that don't know- these little compressors are a world above most- fast, quiet and efficient.

 

Here are some pics!

 

Waterproof 50a Circuit Breaker under the hood to power the fuseblock.  I used the battery tie-down bolt with a starboard mounting block.  it's easy to move out of the way if I need to change the battery and it's secure.  This breaker has a nice disconnect push button too.

 

IMG_5094.thumb.JPG.bd7c470eed80dacb83534ed43c7d94a1.JPGIMG_5092.thumb.JPG.84315aa3f16dda018ed13d069f27c8fe.JPG

 

 

Posted

Here's the compressor under the seat.  I need to find a free photo sharing website so I can post more pics...)

 

IMG_5104.thumb.JPG.43ab7d65165f7ba291d759e82850b550.JPG

Posted

Cool man, looks good.  Actually I called ARB and they told me there are relays in the setup, thats why they did not send me any.  I have the one with two compressors, 100% duty cycle.  So all i needed to do was run my 8 AWG from the box in back to under the hood, with 2 fuse holders.  I can ditch the switch wiring harness as it has way too much i will not use, and just run 2 leads from the compressor setup to my switch by the dash.  this needs to be hooked to a latching relay, then to the momentary switch in the dash.  

 

i will post pictures when i get it done, its taking few weekend as time is short...as I'm sure you know...lol

Posted
On 3/14/2019 at 5:51 PM, Limelight said:

Here's the compressor under the seat.  I need to find a free photo sharing website so I can post more pics...)

 

IMG_5104.thumb.JPG.43ab7d65165f7ba291d759e82850b550.JPG

Imgur! I've used them since PhotoBucket went full chump and Imgur works well

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...