Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Quick how to and review of the Cab Over America wireless cab lights.

 

Link to parts: https://caboveramerica.com/

 

The parts: For just under $400 you get a set of 5 battery powered wireless cab lights.  Each light consists of 4 parts; the aluminum mounting plate, rubber gasket, LED/PV panel module, and the top lens.  The top lenses can be had in clear, amber or smoke.  In our case, we went with smoke. 

IMG_3067.thumb.jpg.c938b32c845e574540b69910071c2875.jpg

 

You also get two remotes to control the lights.  Overall the quality is high and what I would expect from something in this price range.  You also get some small lenses that can be place inside the cab lights to change the lights to amber while still using a clear or smoke outer lens.  Lastly you are given a Cab Over America tape measure.  We laid the tape out but ended up using a tape measure for all measurements. 

 

The install:

  1. First step was to decide on how you will be playing out the lights.  We went with the two edge lights and 3 concentrated in the middle.  Others may go with the even spacing all the way across, completely up to you. Here's a test fit. Also shows you the clearance with the shark fin. IMG_3071.thumb.jpg.bd8bf9ab2d57b6ff344f7c42979a86ad.jpg
  2. Remove the two nuts, lens, LED, and gasket so you are just left with the aluminum bracket with screw posts.  It was easier to measure and mount the brackets without all the extra parts.  We also bent the brackets a bit to fit the counter of the roof in the location they'd be installed.  Here they are laid out in position. IMG_3085.thumb.jpg.159687bfa0ce7f69221b1144f047a5f2.jpg
  3. Wipe down the front 10" of your cab with Isopropyl alcohol. This is to prep the surface for better adhesion.
  4. Starting with the cab light nearest to the shark fin, measure 4.5" up from the windshield and 4.5" from the rain gutter to the front stud.  This will locate the front mounting post.  The rear post of the drivers side cab light should also be 4.5" from the gutter. Using a marker to make temp markings so when you remove the tape backing you can guide the bracket into position. 
  5. Remove the tape backing, heat up the double stick tape, and install using your guidelines.
  6. Repeat for the passenger side light.
  7. Find the center of the windshield, measure 4.5" straight back, this will locate the front stud of the center light.  Make sure the mounting bracket is straight and mark guide lined with a marker, remove tape backing, heat up the tape, then install.
  8. For the side center lights, we offset the lights 7.5" from the center light centerline.  Measuring 7.5" from the center light's stud to the side light studs we were able to locate the side lights. Both the front and back studs of the side cab lights are 7.5" from the respective studs on the center light bracket. 
  9. After all the metal brackets were installed the rubber gaskets were reinstalled, LED modules installed, and the lenses were screwed down.
  10. Last step was to sit back and enjoy the lights.  They look great with the switchback mirrors!Thumbnail.jpg.5cd58cec4edc5616b5f3bbba75a60f51.jpg

 

Here is a video of the install if you don't like reading!

 

Thanks!

WF41

 

  • Like 2
Posted

A few more pictures of the lights:

Adhesive on the bottom of each light

IMG_3070.thumb.jpg.c2d0b917c7fc4c3e1b02abcae474af8f.jpg

 

Lay out with the Cab Over America center 0 tape. 

IMG_3081.thumb.jpg.461fe4da090b39d7fb2913703449c4c1.jpg

 

Final touches, tightening the nuts onto the metal bracket studs to close up the lights.

IMG_3087.thumb.jpg.0bbd7e311e455f9c90329b763843caee.jpg

 

  • 2 years later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

How did you get the rubber gaskets to lay flat after installing? I got my plates flat, but the front of the rubber gaskets have left a gap between the truck and gasket? Just got installed

20210819_133459.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...