Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Lil_engine_that_could said:

Just got my truck, and I asked for the 2.7L Turbo. Always driven turbo engines and I cant go back to naturally aspirated again.

Welcome to the club.  I predict more will follow :chevy:

Edited by sharkman
spelling
  • Like 1
Posted

trade 2.4 turbo in and its -$1100 hit which i was shocked to see honestly......dealers, CarMax, all show huge hit on resale.....keep it forever no worries....i was really just blown away they take away almost whole retail value 

Posted
8 hours ago, Dunn said:

trade 2.4 turbo in and its -$1100 hit which i was shocked to see honestly......dealers, CarMax, all show huge hit on resale.....keep it forever no worries....i was really just blown away they take away almost whole retail value 

not following you 100%, but the 5.3 is a almost $1400 option, so maybe that the reason for the reduction for trade-in value?

 

 

Posted

if you trade in a 2.4 is a $1100 deduction....and yes my 5.3 was around $1400 upcharge I believe so I get most of it back.....also I understand most don't care cuz they will keep their truck forever I was just kinda shocked is all....

Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, JR09country said:

https://www.thedrive.com/news/33119/next-gen-chevy-colorado-dropping-duramax-diesel-gas-v-6-for-silverados-turbo-four-report

2.7 going in the Colorado. That is going to make the truck such a beast, i am glad GM did this.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
 

I wonder if they'll lose any buyers due to not having an oil burner. Though I suspect GM is hoping they'd step up to a full size with the 3.0.

Edited by Cpl_Punishment
Clarity
Posted
I wonder if they'll lose any buyers due to not having an oil burner. Though I suspect GM is hoping they'd step up to the 3.0.
The 3.0 and 10speed in the Colorado would be awesome but I dont see GM losing enough people to make a difference if they take away a diesel option completely.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/21/2020 at 2:43 PM, Dunn said:

if you trade in a 2.4 is a $1100 deduction....and yes my 5.3 was around $1400 upcharge I believe so I get most of it back.....also I understand most don't care cuz they will keep their truck forever I was just kinda shocked is all....

I don't think you are following how the resale calculation is working. You are getting more of the 2.7 savings back, you saved $1,400 and versus the 5.3 and they are only docking you $1,100 versus the 5.3 which was $1,400 more. So the 5.3 isn't showing any docking of the 5.3 but only $1,100 on the 2.7, so it is actually $300 better in resale than the 5.3. Now if it showed +$1,700 when inputting the 5.3 and the $1,100 was a subtraction for the 2.7 the difference would be $2,800 ($1,100 + $1,700) but that is not the case you are saying. When they work out resale they start at a baseline and add and subtract based on options from a particular trim level, if it isn't adding for the 5.3 then that is the baseline motor they are using (probably because it is the volume seller). Either way there isn't a penalty getting the 2.7 when it comes time to trade in and a $1,000 out of $30k isn't much to worry about or should drive concern as you are saving that at the pump and in upfront costs, financing and insurance. 

 

Tyler

  • Like 2
Posted
I did my first towing yesterday. Had around 800 lbs on my 6x10 single axle trailer. 40 mile round trip in southern Pennsylvania. Could not believe how much power and torque this 2.7 turbo has. Absolutely no effort at all. RPMs never exceeded 2k except for grade braking going down one steep grade. MPG only went down to 17.5 from 22 for this trip. This thing is perfect for me and most non commercial truck owners who will tow less than 7000 lbs. 
So you had roughly what, 2000 lbs?
(800+ 1200lb trailer)
That's a far cry from 7000lbs
I wonder what the mileage and performance would be with something more in that range? 10-12mpg? Much more frequent down shifting?
Just curious, as I don't feel you really had much weight..... Also have You pulled the same trailer with similar loads with your previous V8? How did it compare?
I only drove the 2.7 as a loaner without a trailer. I was not impressed unless you actually stepped on the gas hard enough to actually downshift.....
With my v8 without a trailer, I can step on the gas and increase speed at a much quicker rate without it actually downshifting.....
I think that it would probably hold true to that, when actually pulling a trailer too?
Meaning less down shifting?
If I floored the 2.7 and my V8 they both "felt"very similar at wide open throttle..
It was how much or amount of "tip in"
To throttle vs downshifting that I noticed the difference in...




Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Posted
On 4/1/2020 at 5:17 PM, Peter Gill said:

For those who have had the 2.7 for the past several years, how’s it holding up? Better mpg?

 

As well, does it come with a g80 locker, was thinking 4x2 crew cab but my only concern is traction in snow. Not for off-roading.  I know tires and weight make a difference. Thanks

So I bought my 19 with the 2.7T LT 2WD this last October. I now have 17k miles. I average 19-20 mpg with my daily driving and Uber.

 

I have taken road trips with just passenger payload and luggage and can get 22-24 depending on where I keep my speed.

 

Not long ago, I hauled an 03 CTS on a Uhaul auto transport on the interstate. I still averaged 13-14 mpg going 60-70 mph. Plenty of torque to get the trailer moving and keep it going on the highway. Plenty of power to pass on the highway as well.

 

I thought I had made a mistake going with the turno4, but now that I have put 17k miles on it, I couldn’t be happier.  Sometimes I wish I did get the V8, but I remember the reasoning for buying the turbo4.

 

Coming off a 2003 Ram 1500 4.7, this Silverado already outdoes my old truck. So it meets my needs. I don’t haul all the time nor do I off-road. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/8/2019 at 11:43 AM, the wanderer said:

I know lots of people think that this engine is stressed 100% all the time; but there was that video some comments back where the engineer talks about how they strengthened the motor just like they would a diesel; ie, if you're not concerned about stressing a diesel (which they all have turbos) then don't stress about this one either. I dunno. Just too new for me I think. Would love to drive one pulling a 6000 pound trailer just to know what it can do.

I’ve towed a 3400 lb car on a Uhaul auto transport. Fuel economy dropped to 13-14 mpg.  Drove on the interstate and had plenty of power throughout the range and had plenty of passing power. 

Posted
On 4/13/2020 at 11:48 AM, sharkman said:

I think you are missing the additional all - star discount you get with the 2.7, again at lest $5k more.  When I bought mine, (11/19) I got about 30% off the MSRP  as they were  almost giving the 2.7 away.  

I got mine at about 25% off MSRP in October ‘19.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/30/2020 at 5:56 AM, Grandpa1 said:

Has anyone changed their own oil yet in their 2.7?

I read somewhere that the drain plug is 3/8" square and I was wondering if that's correct.

I know it takes 6 quarts of 5W30 synthetic Dexos and the correct filter number.

Just wondering.

Thanks!

And that oil comes out like a waterfall. Have a deep pan. Ask me how I know. LOL. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Having Owed Silverado/Sierras....

1993 4.3 V6 300K+ Miles mostly highway no load.

2003 4.3 V6 90K

2005 4.3 V6 80K

2007 4.8 V8 125K

2012 4.3 V6 110K

2016 4.3 36K

 

Shopping for a new 2020 Silverado/Sierra (I think the Sierra looks much better)

I've driven the 2.7, 4.3 and 5.3

(I have NEVER had a mechanical issue with-the 4.3s)

 

But I was open to driving the 2.7, It pulled to speed quickly, but it felt strained to get there, the 4.3 was slower, but having driven mostly 4.3s, it seemed normal, but the 5.3 seemed to reach speeds faster than the 2.7, but it felt less strained to get there.

I understand the 2.7 was deigned from the ground up to be a truck engine, but my dime in on a 5.3 pulling a 5K load occasionally will last longer than the 2.7 doing the same duty cycles over and over, ANYthing that doesn't have to work as hard as something half it's size WILL last longer, especially with the fact the 5.3 does so with less "helpers/add ons" ie, coolant recirculation, turbo, 2 camshafts vs 1 on. the 5.3.

Ford was the first for using a very small displacement engine in a large pickup, but it quickly became obvious that the 2.7 V6 did not record better mpg if any than the larger engine because it had to work twice as hard for the same amount energy to pass through the system, their 2.7 DID record better mpg lightly feathering the throttle down the highway.

For someone using a Silverado for towing 10% or less of time, the 2.7 would be just fine, but for anyone looking for a long term 300K truck for anything period, stick with the 5.3.

 

Not intending to piss anyone off, but as former auto tech at car dealerships, it's just my 2 cents.

 

 

Edited by mdreynolds
  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...