Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I raced a GM/Oldsmobile road racing Quad 4  GM factory built race car in 1998 and that was the beginning of this redneck seeing what straight 4's and 6's are capable of if built right and tuned perfectly. The 2.7L is so interesting to me and shows a lot of what we essentially tested from 80's to late 90's to make less cylinders do more. This engine was built around that turbo for sure.  

  • Like 2
Posted

Bumping the TQ to 420 is really impressive. But I still won't buy one until they start putting the 10spd behind it. Why would they keep the 8spd for this engine and put the 10spd behind evey other engine option? Do they just have a bunch of 8spd tranny's that they need to get rid of?

  • Like 1
Posted

I have 51K Miles on my 2020 1500 LT Crew Cab 2.7L, 8 Speed Trans and I could not be happier with the truck. I have gotten as much as 30 mpg and more on the highway, typically I get 27 to 28 mpg and 22 to 24 mpg with mixed driving. I pulled a trailer with a Golf Cart from Dallas to Atlanta and averaged 20 MPG driving 70 + mph most of the time. I have had zero problems with this truck, I keep up with the maintenance accordingly, including the tramission flush at 45K. My son bought the Custom 2.7L and he does not get the same mpg that I do, he gets 22 to 24 mpg no matter how he drives it. He has 20" wheels, mine are 17". Also on my truck I have the options to choose Tow Mode, Sport Mode and Snow. Sport Mode keeps it fun. I'm seeing comments about how it sounds, I put a resonator on mine and when I get on it, it sounds fine. I'm also seeing comments about the spool up of the turbo, when I punch it, there is a nano second before it goes and not an issue for me. I was always 5.3 owner and if I needed to tow a heavy boat or trailer I would go back to the 5.3, but for now I am very happy with my 4 banger. The photo is from a video I sent my son taunting him about my gas mileage.

IMG_0813.PNG

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
10 hours ago, DRWTEXAS said:

I have 51K Miles on my 2020 1500 LT Crew Cab 2.7L, 8 Speed Trans and I could not be happier with the truck. I have gotten as much as 30 mpg and more on the highway, typically I get 27 to 28 mpg and 22 to 24 mpg with mixed driving. I pulled a trailer with a Golf Cart from Dallas to Atlanta and averaged 20 MPG driving 70 + mph most of the time. I have had zero problems with this truck, I keep up with the maintenance accordingly, including the tramission flush at 45K. My son bought the Custom 2.7L and he does not get the same mpg that I do, he gets 22 to 24 mpg no matter how he drives it. He has 20" wheels, mine are 17". Also on my truck I have the options to choose Tow Mode, Sport Mode and Snow. Sport Mode keeps it fun. I'm seeing comments about how it sounds, I put a resonator on mine and when I get on it, it sounds fine. I'm also seeing comments about the spool up of the turbo, when I punch it, there is a nano second before it goes and not an issue for me. I was always 5.3 owner and if I needed to tow a heavy boat or trailer I would go back to the 5.3, but for now I am very happy with my 4 banger. The photo is from a video I sent my son taunting him about my gas mileage.

IMG_0813.PNG


Any issue with the 8 speed?
 

Posted
On 10/31/2021 at 1:03 PM, SilveradoRST said:


Any issue with the 8 speed?
 

I have a 2018 sierra 6.2 8 speed and my tranny is flawless.

Posted

Newbie to this sub forum.  Ordered a '22 Custom on Aug.31 and received it on Nov. 2nd.

Still have an '18 HC 6.2, also had a '15 and '12 6.2 so this 4-banger will be interesting.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/3/2021 at 3:42 PM, F-150stxguy said:

That is incredible mileage. I imagine range would be great too. Do you run 91 octane or 87? 

Drove 300 miles up north this weekend, averaged 29.2 on 87 octane. 

489001BA-B5AF-4F4E-9552-2A216BA63DBC.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Although i havent driven the 2.7 it is interesting to me , my question is if I ordered a ‘21 WT with the 2.7 would i get the “improved” engine or get the original 2.7 ? I was wanting to get a 4x4 and level with biggest tires i could get under it . Is there anyone with this combo and still getting decent MPG ?

  • Like 1
Posted
12 hours ago, lwmajor said:

Although i havent driven the 2.7 it is interesting to me , my question is if I ordered a ‘21 WT with the 2.7 would i get the “improved” engine or get the original 2.7 ? I was wanting to get a 4x4 and level with biggest tires i could get under it . Is there anyone with this combo and still getting decent MPG ?

The higher output 2.7 is new to the 22 model. So you will still get the 310/348 rating which is still very stout. We started changing out our 4.3s in our farm for 2.7s this year to go along with our 5.3s. 

We load them , we tow with them , beat them up on our roads, and the 2.7 just keeps on kicking.  I honestly think the best thing GM did in last 5 years. Other GM has been pretty stagnant with their motors. 

  • Like 2
Posted
16 hours ago, Mike Borowski said:

Drove 300 miles up north this weekend, averaged 29.2 on 87 octane. 

489001BA-B5AF-4F4E-9552-2A216BA63DBC.jpeg

Your best mileage in the past 50 miles was 29.2, you averaged 20.8 in the last 50 miles.

  • Like 1
Posted
11 minutes ago, kc classic said:

Your best mileage in the past 50 miles was 29.2, you averaged 20.8 in the last 50 miles.

So what's your point?

 

When I took the pic I was driving more aggressively and faster.  But on the way up north I was averaging 29.2

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Mike Borowski said:

So what's your point?

 

When I took the pic I was driving more aggressively and faster.  But on the way up north I was averaging 29.2

 

That's not how averages work. Your best was 29.2, your average can't also be 29.2. You average is far lower, and your worst must be quite low to get an average of 20.

 

I have averaged 23 to 25 in my hemi v8 and guys on this forum are doing better than that even with the 5.3. So that screenshot there is very unimpressive. Not saying you can't do far better with the turbo than you can in a v8, but that screenshot you posted is not showing you what you think it is, that's all we're saying. In fact its showing you that you got pretty miserable mileage all things considered.

Edited by the wanderer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...