Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Anyone have a check engine light show up then go away and come back? Code uo129 lost communication with brake control module, UO101 lost communication with transmission Control Module. Went to bed with no check engine light, woke up in the morning for work and noticed the truck would not remote start. When I go in to head to work noticed check engine light. After work ran codes. Shortly after getting codes and using google to research check engine light was gone. Went for a drive never came back on. Woke up this morning it was on again. Can anybody relate?

Edited by 5JB
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

You should look at these 2 links:

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/245-2019-silverado-sierra-troubleshooting/?sortby=last_real_post&sortdirection=desc&page=2

 

 

You need to make sure that nothing is drawing voltage from the battery when the engine is off or causing any interference with the computer. 

My dealer told me that GM has already notified the dealers to tell the customers about issues with using aftermarket sigaret plugins. 

 

Edited by AMPRG
  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I had the same code for my 2019.

i was using the 12v outlet, charging devices from a separate inverter , without the vehicle running ( trying to save fuel) I guess I drained the vehicle battery down too much. That’s when the engine light came on with that code. I now use the factory built in inverter that came with the truck. 1 outlet in the dashboard,the other in the bed. This set up works only with the motor running. So while I’m driving I charge everything then.

hopes this make sense and help out in the future.. 

p.s. I cleared the code myself, never came back on since. It’s been 8 months and 15k miles.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 2019 Silverado with the 2.4L turbo 4 ecotech engine.  I started it today for the first time since Monday after several days of a cold snap.  Since it has been sitting for a few days I remote started it.  When I went outside about 5 minutes later the cooling fan was screaming.  I started the truck and drove about a mile to the store.  When I restarted the truck after leaving the store the cooling day wasn't screaming anymore but the check engine light came on and stayed on.  Now the remote start won't work.  Bringing it in Monday.  This is the first Chevy I've had in almost 20 years and it only has 491 miles on it. . I'm beginning to think I should of stayed with Ford.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 5/18/2019 at 3:55 AM, AMPRG said:

You should look at these 2 links:

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/245-2019-silverado-sierra-troubleshooting/?sortby=last_real_post&sortdirection=desc&page=2

 

 

You need to make sure that nothing is drawing voltage from the battery when the engine is off or causing any interference with the computer. 

My dealer told me that GM has already notified the dealers to tell the customers about issues with using aftermarket sigaret plugins. 

 

Interesting because my truck has been running fine until I hooked up a dash cam in the 12v plug. Left it plugged in and came back to start the car and got all kind of error codes. Unplug the dash cam clear the codes and everything seems to be fine now. 2020 Sierra. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Anyone else having this issue? I had the same CEL issue where it was on for a few days and now off. Dealer said it was the same communication codes mentioned in the previous posts. However, they said that the most recent software that came out 1/16/20 was supposed to address this exact issue. So now they are setting up a loner and need to do deeper investigation with the truck in partnerships with GM engineers. I’m really loosing faith in the vehicle at this point as this is my 7th warranty repair issue. Anyone else still having this issue?

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 1/9/2020 at 10:56 PM, TruckerD said:

Interesting because my truck has been running fine until I hooked up a dash cam in the 12v plug. Left it plugged in and came back to start the car and got all kind of error codes. Unplug the dash cam clear the codes and everything seems to be fine now. 2020 Sierra. 

just curious,  how did you clear the codes?  do you have your own code reader/scanner that will do it?  the one I checked into would read codes, but not clear them,  the person at the auto parts store said the only one who can clear a code is the dealer

Posted
2 hours ago, wizard4878 said:

just curious,  how did you clear the codes?  do you have your own code reader/scanner that will do it?  the one I checked into would read codes, but not clear them,  the person at the auto parts store said the only one who can clear a code is the dealer

That isn't remotely correct.  While there might be a really cheap code reader that can't clear codes, I haven't come across it yet.  It MOST DEFINITELY is not a dealer-only function.

 

I've got 3 code readers, one that cost about $100, another that cost about $400, and another that runs on my laptop that cost about $600.  While the more expensive code readers can read codes from more systems on my truck, they all can clear codes.

 

As well, codes will clear automatically as you fix the problem causing them.  Some will clear right away (for example, if you left the MAF sensor unplugged and you plug it in), others will require a certain number of key cycles or a specific driving/engine usage pattern to clear.

Posted
On 4/26/2019 at 7:12 PM, 5JB said:

Anyone have a check engine light show up then go away and come back? Code uo129 lost communication with brake control module, UO101 lost communication with transmission Control Module. Went to bed with no check engine light, woke up in the morning for work and noticed the truck would not remote start. When I go in to head to work noticed check engine light. After work ran codes. Shortly after getting codes and using google to research check engine light was gone. Went for a drive never came back on. Woke up this morning it was on again. Can anybody relate?

This started to happen to my 2019 Elevation today. Same stuff, remote start wont work and CEL on. Did you ever find out what was happening or the fix for it? I got an appointment Tuesday. I had a 2015 Seirra SLE and traded in for the 2019. The 2019 has been to the doc(dealer) more then my kids for recalls.

Posted

There have been at least two different GM documents regarding this concern, both required engine control module software updates as remedies.  Additionally as mentioned aftermarket 12v accessories left plugged in with vehicle off are known to cause concerns. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/3/2020 at 12:07 PM, bobboberton1 said:

Anyone else having this issue? I had the same CEL issue where it was on for a few days and now off. Dealer said it was the same communication codes mentioned in the previous posts. However, they said that the most recent software that came out 1/16/20 was supposed to address this exact issue. So now they are setting up a loner and need to do deeper investigation with the truck in partnerships with GM engineers. I’m really loosing faith in the vehicle at this point as this is my 7th warranty repair issue. Anyone else still having this issue?

Im in the exact same boat. I feel like my truck has been at the Service center longer than I had the truck. Did you ever get yours back?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Yes that’s exactly what has happened with my 2019 Silverado. Dealer thought they fixed it and a week later on again. Just got a call from dealership,they talked to Chevrolet and now they are putting a total computer replacement.  We’ll see if that fixes it

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...