Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 4/25/2020 at 6:42 PM, Duramax417 said:

Here is my 2020 1500 4x4 Duramax. I have 2” Rough Country top coil spacer and 2”block on the rear with shock extension I put 35/12.50R20. I trimmed very minimal on the inner portion of the mud flap. Other then that i like the way it sits.

4C7118F8-D6D0-491B-BB9B-600905A83715.jpeg

87E339B9-1466-49E4-B8D2-779D0F51839A.jpeg

How much space do you have between the tire and upper control arm? I have a 2.5 front 2.0 rear and this looks like a great setup. And you just trimmed plastic and no metal? No rubbing?

Posted
1 hour ago, Kableguy said:

How much space do you have between the tire and upper control arm? I have a 2.5 front 2.0 rear and this looks like a great setup. And you just trimmed plastic and no metal? No rubbing?

 

No metal at all just plastic... very Very small portion And that was just temporary because I will be doing the mud flap delete on it. And between the arm and tires I have about 3/16”.... I have flex the truck pretty hardcore To test out... and No touching at all from tire to control arm.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

2020 AT4, Readylift 2” SST with only the front lift. Rear sits .75-1 inch higher as is. I don’t think I got 2” from the lift. I was at 38.5” from ground to the line where the plastic black fender folds in, centered on the hub. After, with stock wheels/tires, I was at 40”. Now with 33’s, I’m at 40.5”. Wish I had measured from the center of the hub. Anyone have any measurements on a non At4 stock? 


95FCA107-5B0E-4117-969D-9ED51A84800E.jpeg

Edited by Casey Nelson
Accidentally quoted someone
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 5/5/2020 at 5:49 PM, Casey Nelson said:

2020 AT4, Readylift 2” SST with only the front lift. Rear sits .75-1 inch higher as is. I don’t think I got 2” from the lift. I was at 38.5” from ground to the line where the plastic black fender folds in, centered on the hub. After, with stock wheels/tires, I was at 40”. Now with 33’s, I’m at 40.5”. Wish I had measured from the center of the hub. Anyone have any measurements on a non At4 stock? 

I have 2019 AT4 - also did Ready Lift SST kit - front was at 38" (both sides) before, now right at 40" (started at 40.5", but has settled about a 0.25" since).  Rear was 40" - now rear at 41" with rear blocks addded and Method NV wheels, so still a slight rake - without the block it was about 0.25" high in the front (but looked dead level with stock wheels).  I have painted fender flair from GM (not plasstic one like you).

 

Maybe they did not property set the preload, with spacer from SST kit - that should add the full 2", if preload was set correct.  May have that looked at. 

 

Photos below - is first photo after front level with stock wheels - no rear blocks - second is how it sits now with Methods and rear blocks added and third is the truck in stock form 1774283387_LeveledTruck.thumb.jpg.b8535f0f8e583d235494bdb8729f1b63.jpg

 

Methods and Blocks added to rear: 

Methods.thumb.JPG.9d0460c90210bba9f56bc59e1eadaeb5.JPG

 

AT4 Stock - before SST Kit added

IMG_8517.thumb.JPG.a2cbf6a3ba0e0913542876db12358da7.JPG

Edited by Supercup
Posted
1 hour ago, Supercup said:

I have 2019 AT4 - also did Ready Lift SST kit - front was at 38" (both sides) before, now right at 40" (started at 40.5", but has settled about a 0.25" since).  Rear was 40" - now rear at 41" with rear blocks addded and Method NV wheels, so still a slight rake - without the block it was about 0.25" high in the front (but looked dead level with stock wheels).  I have painted fender flair from GM (not plasstic one like you).

 

Maybe they did not property set the preload, with spacer from SST kit - that should add the full 2", if preload was set correct.  May have that looked at. 

 

 

Photos below - is first photo after front level with stock wheels - no rear blocks - second is how it sits now with Methods and rear blocks added and third is the truck in stock form 1774283387_LeveledTruck.thumb.jpg.b8535f0f8e583d235494bdb8729f1b63.jpg

 

Methods and Blocks added to rear: 

Methods.thumb.JPG.9d0460c90210bba9f56bc59e1eadaeb5.JPG

 

AT4 Stock - before SST Kit added

IMG_8517.thumb.JPG.a2cbf6a3ba0e0913542876db12358da7.JPG

Nice truck! So your rear settled down as well? I wasn’t planning on installing the rear blocks due to the way it sits. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Casey Nelson said:

Nice truck! So your rear settled down as well? I wasn’t planning on installing the rear blocks due to the way it sits. 

Rear did not settle - just blocks - so no settling - front did settle 0.25" or so.  I agree - like the way yours sits - looks great! 

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 4/21/2020 at 8:53 PM, ausomecasey said:

I ended up getting the non-LT 275/60r20 ridge grapplers. I wanted the 275/65/20 or 285/60/20 ridge grappler, but they only came in a LT load rating. I wanted to maintain that comfy factory ride for a little longer. When these tires wear out, I’ll probably go up to the larger size.

I want to go with same level/tire combo you have.  Any concern that using the bottom mount 1” kit will cause rubbing on the CV boot?

Posted

2020 Custom 4x4 5.3L
 

2.25” Pro Comp level kit up front. 
 

She’s actually currently sitting .75” higher in the front, so I’m going to add a 1” SDT rear block in a few weeks. 
 

Not for this thread, but just Adding the front level allowed me to fit 35x12.5x20 Atturo Trail Blade X/Ts. No spacers required. No rub. No trimming 

81B95A98-82C7-452D-89E8-90C1D30E08C1.jpeg

Posted
On 5/9/2020 at 11:35 AM, Rob133 said:

2in leveled out to fenders 40" all around

20200508_162916.thumb.jpg.b82bdce32e3ad42f747f22406320a5e2.jpg

Looks awesome. Which step bars are those?

Posted

Finally got new tires after the AT4 lift and level. Goodyear Wrangler Ultraterrain AT 275/60/20.

IMG_20200510_151320_6.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
On 5/10/2020 at 8:51 AM, hihosilverado said:

I want to go with same level/tire combo you have.  Any concern that using the bottom mount 1” kit will cause rubbing on the CV boot?

I’ll check tomorrow and let you know

Posted
On 5/10/2020 at 8:51 AM, hihosilverado said:

I want to go with same level/tire combo you have.  Any concern that using the bottom mount 1” kit will cause rubbing on the CV boot?

 

 

 

It looks like it has plenty of room.

F9C161B1-7E6A-4F18-9E69-7C8D0DD634E6.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 439 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...