19 SILVERADO FRONT BRAKE UPGRADE

flyingfool · March 5, 2020

On 3/4/2020 at 7:11 AM, truckguy82 said:

Lol, ok

the lever effect exists, but it’s irrelevant. There is no net gain or loss of energy by using a larger disc and placing the pad on the outside. If you place a brake pad closer to the interior, you have to clamp harder, but that’s offset by the lack of rotational speed. Considering the clamping force is just a number you can pick out of a hat with an automotive braking system, it means there is no additional stopping power with larger brakes. Thus, it means the only point to having large rotors is heat absorption and dissipation. If you have to convert X joules of energy into heat and to be absorbed and dissipated by a chunk of metal, a big chunk of metal can do that more effectively.

In regards to bike hydraulics is just a means of energy transfer. When you pull the brake lever on the bike, you’re not going to suddenly get more clamping force because hydraulics = magic.

The only reason disc brakes works on a bike is because bike rims constantly bend a little bit and create a wobble. This means your brake pads need to be further away and need to travel more. With the disc brakes, they are going to stay true, which means you can reduce the amount of travel the pad has, which in turn allows you much greater mechanical advantage. When you pull the brake leaver, you pull it maybe 2 inches. 2 inches of hand travel moving the brake pad 3mm, is a whole lot more mechanical advantage than moving the pad 25mm you need for traditional brakes. You could get the same effect with hydraulics or mechanic advantage, it doesn’t matter. The hydraulic method is just a simpler way to transfer large amounts of energy and creates lighter components.

I mean, did you never wonder why every vehicle on the road has the braking power to lock up the brakes no problem, but for some reason sports cars have bigger brakes? Why the hell would they have bigger brakes if a honda civics brakes could easily lock up the tires.

heat dissipation is the only reason, not mechanical advantage

Thanks!!

i wonder how brake bias is being affected when you guys are switching over to the larger calipers??

truckguy82 · March 6, 2020

21 hours ago, flyingfool said:

Thanks!!

i wonder how brake bias is being affected when you guys are switching over to the larger calipers??

I’m not sure. If the clamping force is increased by the caliper, and only on the front or the back, then yes it would be effected.

I really want to hear groovey moon, the “engineer” respond

Inacanyon · March 6, 2020

Can u guys stop muddying up this thread?

Twinscroll240 · March 10, 2020

I’m pretty sure these should clear even 17 inch wheels, for those of us the went down to 17 inch wheels since the spare tire on these new Gen trucks is still a 17 inch. It would just have to be a low offset wheel to clear the outboard portion of the caliper. Pics are of both types of spares on 2020 Sierras at a local dealer of mine. Can anyone confirm this to be true? I just need to clear my 17 wheel barrels, my wheels have a concave and zero offset to clear the caliper width..

Edited March 10, 2020 by Twinscroll240

lovelessjl · March 10, 2020

Any chance they'd let you mount a spare up to see how it fits? That 2nd one actually looks pretty good!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Jagerschnapps1 · March 15, 2020

On 1/31/2020 at 5:29 PM, truckmann said:

Here is what I ordered from Rock Auto and I got some Stop Tech SS brake lines number 950.66002 from ebay.

The brake lines aren't really needed, but I figured since I was in there I may as well upgrade those too. The price of the brake pads was stupid, but they also came with a new pad life sensor which I didn't need. I'd bet you will be able to find pads cheaper before too long.

So I started at rock auto and neither they nor anyone else has the drivers side caliper. It actually appears that a new part number is out for the calipers. I wonder what may have changed.

truckmann · March 15, 2020

I don't know. Rock Auto looks to have them both available right now but there is a 2 day delay on the driver's side one. The stock has been in and out on them for a while.

tsdrumm · March 28, 2020

Could you get a measurement from the face of the rotor to the outermost protrusion of the caliper and the measurement of the wheel mounting surface to the same location on the caliper? Might help us figure out if these will clear wheels before finding out we need spacers. Thanks.

truckmann · April 6, 2020

On 3/28/2020 at 11:52 AM, tsdrumm said:

Could you get a measurement from the face of the rotor to the outermost protrusion of the caliper and the measurement of the wheel mounting surface to the same location on the caliper? Might help us figure out if these will clear wheels before finding out we need spacers. Thanks.

I'll try to get to it when I have time.

Twinscroll240 · April 10, 2020

Please let us know on the measurements

AlljackedupZ71 · April 26, 2020

On 4/10/2020 at 5:15 AM, Twinscroll240 said:

Please let us know on the measurements

Hey Bud. Just got done doing the swap on my 2006 Z71. Here are the measurements roughly.

Front face of rotor to outer edge of the caliper is 2-1/2" roughly.

From face of hub to outer edge of caliper is 1-1/2". If concerned about clearance add 1/16" to your figure.

I have 2015 Sierra 20" oem wheels on the truck. Tons of clearance with these.

Edited April 26, 2020 by AlljackedupZ71

jing123 · May 6, 2020

Anyone able to get a set of the calipers?

lucas287 · May 19, 2020

Let's keep this thread going! Very interested. Just bought a '16 Silverado 1500 with 73,000 miles and it feels like it needs rotors, I've got a shimmy when it under hard braking. It'd be nice to spend a little extra and just upgrade the calipers too.

truckguy82 · May 19, 2020

In theory, your brakes should match your engine. Whatever energy your right foot creates, the brake pedal needs to be able to dissipate.

This being said, the 6.2 is considerable more powerful than the 5.3. And I think they use the same brakes. Which means oem should be just fine if you have a 5.3.

lucas287 · May 20, 2020

7 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

In theory, your brakes should match your engine. Whatever energy your right foot creates, the brake pedal needs to be able to dissipate.

This being said, the 6.2 is considerable more powerful than the 5.3. And I think they use the same brakes. Which means oem should be just fine if you have a 5.3.

Having a 6.2 I cannot say my brakes (in their current state) are confidence inspiring. I have an NBS silverado that I converted to hydroboost and it's pedal feel is fantastic.

I'm going to flush my fluid this weekend and that should help my pedal a bit. I'd like to get more feedback on this topic though throwing money at my current setup.