Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I bought Eibach’s and I am very pleased.

Good to know. I'm assuming worlds difference over the stock ranchos on the z71?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
I'd be in for a set if they can be used with the stock height/stance.  I've hit dips along the interstate (not even true potholes) that felt like I lost a kidney.  I understand stiff suspension for towing but the factory shocks are not absorbing much.  How difficult is it to do the fronts?

For the install? I would guess not horrible if you have some insight mechanically. That and renting a spray compressor. Dropping the lower control arm, sway bar endlinks and you should have enough room. At least from the looks of it when I did my level.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I bought all 4 shocks for $435 and my mechanic charged $200. I got tired of waiting on the 4600 as I never wanted the 5100. Bilstein told me the 4600 is the best shock for stock height and for towing. I set the Eibach’s on stock height and it worked out great. Same height as stock and I only have 1/4” rake on my truck. The Eibach’s killed the chevy hop in the rear end and the truck drives much more planted. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
16 hours ago, jbr1888 said:

Would these work? https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/bilstein-b8-5100-series-shock-absorber-33-253237/_/R-BBGL-33-253237

 

They are a hair shorter than the ones for the Trailboss. I have a 2 inch front level and a 1 inch rear lift block.

 

Not sure if this applies to your vehicle but I had my 2" rear blocks removed on my AT4 to get a more leveled look to avoid altering the front end.  After driving it around for a week I could definitely feel a difference in the way the rear end handled small and large bumps.  The smooth road handling had disappeared.  Since the stock OEM Rancho rear shocks were made for the 2" lift I looked for a non AT4/TrailBoss shock replacement with zero lift and went with the Bilstein 5100 which are good for 0-1" lift.  Truck now drives better than stock - on and off-road.  Very happy with the shock overall.     

AT4_SCAS.png

  • Like 2
Posted
Not sure if this applies to your vehicle but I had my 2" rear blocks removed on my AT4 to get a more leveled look to avoid altering the front end.  After driving it around for a week I could definitely feel a difference in the way the rear end handled small and large bumps.  The smooth road handling had disappeared.  Since the stock OEM Rancho rear shocks were made for the 2" lift I looked for a non AT4/TrailBoss shock replacement with zero lift and went with the Bilstein 5100 which are good for 0-1" lift.  Truck now drives better than stock - on and off-road.  Very happy with the shock overall.     
AT4_SCAS.thumb.png.0c2d188d73242e7e9ee12abb65ca9373.png

Where'd you buy them from??? Any wait time?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, BlackRST said:


Where'd you buy them from??? Any wait time?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A local shop near me - SoCal Auto Style - ordered them and installed them.  

Posted
On 1/10/2020 at 9:26 AM, vancealot29 said:

All,

 

I reached out to Bilstein for an updated date now that we are into the new year.  Their response.....

 

"We are estimating by the end of 2nd quarter"

 

And the wait continues........

Reached back out to Bilstein again this week.  Now looking at September/October per their rep.

 

Damn near two years in the new model......these things better wipe my ass after I install them ???

  • Haha 1
Posted
A local shop near me - SoCal Auto Style - ordered them and installed them.  

Damn....I'm trying to avoid dealing with the custom shops around here because the only one who would I don't trust sadly haha. I guess I'm waiting until they're officially released.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Reached back out to Bilstein again this week.  Now looking at September/October per their rep.
 
Damn near two years in the new model......these things better wipe my ass after I install them [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Jeeez...I guess I'll buy them over the winter and install for spring time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
8 hours ago, BlackRST said:


Jeeez...I guess I'll buy them over the winter and install for spring time.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ya - did not inquire about the front replacements.  The rears were in stock and installed next day.  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 6/30/2020 at 10:00 AM, Benzo1 said:

Not sure if this applies to your vehicle but I had my 2" rear blocks removed on my AT4 to get a more leveled look to avoid altering the front end.  After driving it around for a week I could definitely feel a difference in the way the rear end handled small and large bumps.  The smooth road handling had disappeared.  Since the stock OEM Rancho rear shocks were made for the 2" lift I looked for a non AT4/TrailBoss shock replacement with zero lift and went with the Bilstein 5100 which are good for 0-1" lift.  Truck now drives better than stock - on and off-road.  Very happy with the shock overall.     

AT4_SCAS.png

Did you also remove the taller jounce on the rear axle?  If not I bet you bump stop is very close to the axle.

2019-chevrolet-silverado-1500-lt-trailboss-crew-cab-exterior-2018-detroit-auto-show-022-undercarriage-exhaust.jpg.985005ab8f74029961c2ab1e5cf5d613.jpg

Edited by pewterliftedz
Posted
19 hours ago, pewterliftedz said:

Did you also remove the taller jounce on the rear axle?  If not I bet you bump stop is very close to the axle.

2019-chevrolet-silverado-1500-lt-trailboss-crew-cab-exterior-2018-detroit-auto-show-022-undercarriage-exhaust.jpg.985005ab8f74029961c2ab1e5cf5d613.jpg

Ya - this was removed as well.

RearEnd.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 496 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...