Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

 

New to the forum and to Chevy. Long time Ram owner, made the jump lol.

 

I bought a 2019 Silverado Custom with 4.3L. I got a rattle coming from dash area. Sounds like its in the area of were the headlight sensor is up by the windshield. Only rattles in drive at a stop. Anyone else by chance?

Posted

I have had a rattle behind the dash near the drivers door for months now when I go over 50 mph.  I have taken it to two different dealerships multiple times with no solution.  It kills me.

Posted
13 minutes ago, Landry said:

I have had a rattle behind the dash near the drivers door for months now when I go over 50 mph.  I have taken it to two different dealerships multiple times with no solution.  It kills me.

Check the hood release cable. Someone said something about tying it back with a zip tie to fix a rattle.

Posted

So it has gotten worse...

 

Only rattles in gear at a stop. No rattle in neutral or park. Apparently only when there is a "load" if you will, on the engine. Even my kids asked what that is. Sounds dead center of dash. Im hoping just something in engine bay rattling. At this point going to make appt next week at dealer. 

 

Would you guys be ok if they had to tear your dash apart?????

Posted
I have had a rattle behind the dash near the drivers door for months now when I go over 50 mph.  I have taken it to two different dealerships multiple times with no solution.  It kills me.

So the ductwork behind the dash is probably rattling against the tie bar that goes the width of the dash. That’s exactly what mine was, little butyl between it and it’s solved. Like I mentioned, you need to remove e cluster for access but it’s not difficult. PM me if you need help
Posted
On 9/28/2019 at 10:53 AM, FiatDale said:


So the ductwork behind the dash is probably rattling against the tie bar that goes the width of the dash. That’s exactly what mine was, little butyl between it and it’s solved. Like I mentioned, you need to remove e cluster for access but it’s not difficult. PM me if you need help

I have a rattle around the A post area when I get to 40mph.sounds like door but could be the dash.could you tell me the area you mean when you say cluster?

Posted

Cluster = speedometer. It’s behind that area, I can almost guarantee it. The rattle sounds like door/ a pillar / dash, but it’s that ductwork behind it. It has such slight clearance between itself and the metal tie bar that spans the width of the dash. When it’s warm, it flexes and bounces on top of that tie bar.

Posted

I think I have that LH AC duct rattle.  Also found sometimes moving the steering wheel rake up and down has quieted a buzz I had under load on the highway

Posted
5 hours ago, FiatDale said:

Cluster = speedometer. It’s behind that area, I can almost guarantee it. The rattle sounds like door/ a pillar / dash, but it’s that ductwork behind it. It has such slight clearance between itself and the metal tie bar that spans the width of the dash. When it’s warm, it flexes and bounces on top of that tie bar.

Thanks for info. The noise has seemed to stop the last 300 miles.if it returns which I'm sure it will I will look at this area. Thanks again.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just to update everyone:

 

Took truck to dealer. There was a gm bulletin out about dash rattle. Turns out I had the same problem. 

 

Issue was engine harness above transmission was rubbing on floorpan. They adjusted the harness, so far no more rattle!

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/8/2019 at 8:59 PM, MyWay said:

Just to update everyone:

 

Took truck to dealer. There was a gm bulletin out about dash rattle. Turns out I had the same problem. 

 

Issue was engine harness above transmission was rubbing on floorpan. They adjusted the harness, so far no more rattle!

Do you have pictures of the area

Thank you!

Posted

Also having the rattle in my at4. Seems like if I pull back towards me on the center dash storage tray it seems to go away. Does this sou d like the rattle of the ducting on the bar?

  • Like 1
Posted
On 9/28/2019 at 9:30 AM, Landry said:

I have had a rattle behind the dash near the drivers door for months now when I go over 50 mph.  I have taken it to two different dealerships multiple times with no solution.  It kills me.

These forums are your best chance at finding a solution to any rattle complaints. I have owned newer under warranty gm trucks now since the mid 90's i can tell you for fact most times a dealer will not solve rattle issues and they just hope to keep pushing you along until your past the 3 year or 36k mark which is when they are completely not obligated to fix interior rattles without charging you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm the original poster of this thread; I'm 85,000 miles now with no transmission issues after they did the fluid change without filter at 45,000.  I plan on a fluid change AND filter in another 5,000 miles and agree with you on staying to witness what happens if possible.  Ideally I would have done the filter at 45,000 too, but my original dealer was incompetent.  I've since moved on and get service done by another more reputable dealer, so I'm hopeful they follow the correct procedure at 90,000.  
    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...