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Bilstein Front Shocks

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pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, ullose272 said:

Looks like this would be a good way to get 3/2 lift if you just add a 2" block to the rear, on non-trail boss.

 

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Trail boss/AT4 trucks have longer CV axles to accommodate the extra lift

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pewterliftedz
pewterliftedz

BIlstein will not soften up the ride, these trucks are already so floaty and bouncy, IDK how you want it to be any softer.

BurnsMax
BurnsMax

I ordered front and rears.  Should be here in a week.  I'll give a report in 2-3 weeks. Pending they aren't on backorder

bobbobtar
bobbobtar

Just ordered the Bilstien 5100 #24-293297 front adjustable shocks for my LT I'm 2 1/4" lower in the front than the rear and  I will set the shock at 2" with Fox in the rear I should be good.

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ullose272 Enthusiast

ullose272

Posted
Posted
Trail boss/AT4 trucks have longer CV axles to accommodate the extra lift
While true, it doesnt make much difference. Would be same as putting any of the 3-4" lifts on non-TB trucks

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econometrics Senior Enthusiast

econometrics

Posted
Posted

Well that didn't take them long at ALL! Only two full years of the T1 being out. ??‍♂️ 

 

Ready to bolt these onto my Z71 RST. These bouncy Ranchos gotta go!

RadoPhan Enthusiast

RadoPhan

Posted
Posted
While true, it doesnt make much difference. Would be same as putting any of the 3-4" lifts on non-TB trucks

 

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Trail boss/AT4 trucks have longer CV axles to accommodate the extra lift

 

What I think people should think about is lifting the truck more than 2” from a non Trailboss without correcting the UCA binding. Hearing more feedback I think lifting anything on the TB should require new UCAs.

 

 

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BurnsMax Enthusiast

BurnsMax

Posted
Posted

I ordered front and rears.  Should be here in a week.  I'll give a report in 2-3 weeks. Pending they aren't on backorder

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ullose272 Enthusiast

ullose272

Posted
Posted
 
What I think people should think about is lifting the truck more than 2” from a non Trailboss without correcting the UCA binding. Hearing more feedback I think lifting anything on the TB should require new UCAs.
 
 
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I agree, i did 2.5" on the front of my non-TB, i dont think id do any more without upper control arms.

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BlancoSilverado Enthusiast

BlancoSilverado

Posted
Posted

Has anyone installed them and can give an initial review on how they perform? Im ready to pull the trigger but want to know if its worth upgrading or if i should keep looking.

Hackney Enthusiast

Hackney

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, BlancoSilverado said:

Has anyone installed them and can give an initial review on how they perform? Im ready to pull the trigger but want to know if its worth upgrading or if i should keep looking.

I ordered the front and rear for my RST this morning. Will update after it’s installed 

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Ezekiel2517 Enthusiast

Ezekiel2517

Posted
Posted (edited)

My experience with the factory shocks has been different. I have a max trailering with a 2" front and 1.5" rear spacer.   Mine are rough as a heck. Well on the road they are fine, but going through the pasture almost kills me  Its way worse that my dads 3/4 ton.  one bump or a long bump and they work okay.  Rapid bumps, they cannot handle at all.  I suspected its the way the shocks are tuned for towing.  Especially the rear.  I have a 2" spacer on the rear shock, but it is a 1/5" spacer, so I guess its a little overstretched nominally.  But I figured half an inch shouldnt make a lot of difference.  maybe it does tho.    

 

Im especially curious about how the 2.5" full extension rides with the front 5100s.  They claimed they were rough on the K2 so I set them at the 3rd setting when I had them installed.  I always regretted that.  Now, with the 2" front, I would really like a 2.5.  I think that would be perfect with the 33s I have.  If I did, it I would just buy it at 4wheelparts here in Houston and have them do it all.  Their prices on the parts are good and their labor is reasonable and top notch.  I tried to do those front shocks myself on my 2014.  Never again....

Edited by Ezekiel2517
Thejet07 Enthusiast

Thejet07

Posted
Posted

So I’m looking to keep rake. I bought but haven’t installed 2” spacer for front and rear blocks. I currently have 18k on my shocks and find them to be terrible. Im think I’d be better off going the route of the bilstein shocks or getting the eibachs. Either or. Instead of the front spacer. Anyway, if I purchased the front and rears would they be the same part numbers for the rear or are there different rears shocks due to the blocks? Sorry for the noob question


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Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, Ezekiel2517 said:

My experience with the factory shocks has been different. I have a max trailering with a 2" front and 1.5" rear spacer.   Mine are rough as a heck. Well on the road they are fine, but going through the pasture almost kills me  Its way worse that my dads 3/4 ton.  one bump or a long bump and they work okay.  Rapid bumps, they cannot handle at all.  I suspected its the way the shocks are tuned for towing.  Especially the rear.  I have a 2" spacer on the rear shock, but it is a 1/5" spacer, so I guess its a little overstretched nominally.  But I figured half an inch shouldnt make a lot of difference.  maybe it does tho.    

 

Im especially curious about how the 2.5" full extension rides with the front 5100s.  They claimed they were rough on the K2 so I set them at the 3rd setting when I had them installed.  I always regretted that.  Now, with the 2" front, I would really like a 2.5.  I think that would be perfect with the 33s I have.  If I did, it I would just buy it at 4wheelparts here in Houston and have them do it all.  Their prices on the parts are good and their labor is reasonable and top notch.  I tried to do those front shocks myself on my 2014.  Never again....

Ezekiel 25:17. And I will execute great vengeance upon them with furious rebukes; and they shall know that I am the LORD, when I shall lay my vengeance upon them. :) That's quite a handle. 

 

On another note: 

 

From Acutune Off Road:

 Digressive shocks are bad at small bumps and large bumps, but good at handling and g-outs. Progressive shocks are good at small bumps and big hits, but bad at handling and g-outs. Linear shocks provide the best all around performance.

 

Most Fox shocks and most King shocks are linear, while most Icon shocks and entry level Bilstein shocks (5100 & 6100) are digressive. [Close quote].

 

Personal experience and hard learned knowledge. If you want some front lift King OEM is your shock and here's why. They have an inch more stroke. The front, (K2 anyway) have a 2:1 A arm ratio. So at 1.5-2" WHEEL lift, the shock, if you have the right spring, is still mid stroke with more than factory travel AND will not require a new UCA.  IF you do the max with a Bilstein your running close to the top of the stroke so you have limited rebound. Hitting those stops feels awful, right? :) 

 

IF lift alone is what your after a Knuckle lift is  your friend.  

 

bobbobtar Enthusiast

bobbobtar

Posted
Posted

Just got my truck back from the shop after they installed the 501's and aligned  the front. Looks like I could have done the install, but it would still need to be aligned, the toe was out on both sides and the camber on one side. I set the 501's at 2" and right now I'm at LF 38 1/2 RF 38 1/2  LR 38 3/4  RR 38 1/2 don't know how I came up 1 /4" more in the LR as the garage floor is level. The ride is firm not harsh, I also have Fox shocks in the rear. I'm just hoping the front settles about a 1/4" lower as I only have 20 miles on the install.

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