What are ya'll doing for oil changes?

[Grumpy Bear]

2 hours ago, Andyh1 said:

Where do you buy amsoil for a good price these days?

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Right here. Nick is our AMSOIL dealer. I buy from him. Black02Silverado Synthetic Advantage.

 

If I get my order in before say 4 pm on Monday, it's on my step by noon Tuesday. Now I do live close to an AMSOIL distribution center here in Chicago. Current cost with a $20 membership last time I ordered a case was $9.48 a quart plus local taxes for the SS line and free shipping with an order over $100 which a case of SS always will be. I take gear oil or other sundries with a case order when needed to get free shipping on them to. Nick is a site supporting member. 

[Andyh1]

Right here. Nick is our AMSOIL dealer. I buy from him. Black02Silverado Synthetic Advantage.
 
If I get my order in before say 4 pm on Monday, it's on my step by noon Tuesday. Now I do live close to an AMSOIL distribution center here in Chicago. Current cost with a $20 membership last time I ordered a case was $9.48 a quart plus local taxes for the SS line and free shipping with an order over $100 which a case of SS always will be. I take gear oil or other sundries with a case order when needed to get free shipping on them to. Nick is a site supporting member. 

Thank you, I will definitely look into it and reach out to Nick.

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[Chevyguy273]

I just did the first oil change at 1000 miles on my 2020 Silverado 1500 LTZ Crew Cab 6.2l. I put Amsoil’s Signature Series 0W/20 along with an Amsoil oil filter. Even at my advanced age I don’t mind crawling under any of my vehicles to change the oil. At least I know what oil is going in and what kind of filters are being used. I got my salesman to throw in 2 cases of Amsoil gallon jugs. And 4 Amsoil oil filters as part of the deal. 

[BigMick2023]

Change my own oil......don't care for some 16-year old dealership Monkey changing my oil. 

 

Mobil 1 @ 2K miles, then every 5K miles after.........do it myself, so easy to do with these trucks........once you remove the lower airdam that is. 

[Belo]

7.5k full synthetic changes with whatever the advance oil change special is.

 

These aren't race cars, as long as you're not putting generic walmart oil in there, and honestly even then... any decent brand will do you just fine.

[diyer2]

My 2 cents.

I believe OCI is more important. An off the shelf full synthetic of any brand I would not run 7500 miles or dealer bulk oil.. 5 K miles tops IMO. If I wanted to do 7500 mile OCI's I would use Amsoils OE oil. A 100% synthetic oil designed to run 7500 miles and not much more than some of the off the shelf oils. I may switch our new car over to Amsoil OE but do 5 K OCI's.

I will add this.

My bought used Honda ATV runs cooler(fan runs less), is quieter and the trans shifts better since I started using Amsoil ATV oil in it. It proved to me that 100% synthetic oil is better. 

[Gangly]

I just changed mine last week and used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and a Fram filter.  Fram has a filter specifically designated for use with full synthetic oil, though I'm not sure it really does anything different than a regular filter.

 

Has anybody tried the K&N oil filters?  They are crazy expensive but I know nothing about them?

[KCU Beor]

Did the first myself at ~900 miles with Mobil 1 / Wix XP filter. Filter and plug are super easy to access - as opposed to my Accord where the filter is sideways and halfway up the bay. I plan on doing it myself every 5 - 7500 miles. As with my wife's car, I rotate the tires as well during that service.

Question on rotation for the 1500s...Do you all / dealers do front-to-back, X-pattern? Also looking at jack points...I'd love to get the whole vehicle off the ground...what do you do at home? I was thinking about getting 4 bottle jacks to place on each corner, but that sounds a little excessive.

Edited August 27, 2020 by KCU Beor

[Gangly]

3 minutes ago, KCU Beor said:

Did the first myself at ~900 miles with Mobil 1 / Wix XP filter. Filter and plug are super easy to access - as opposed to my Accord where the filter is sideways and halfway up the bay. I plan on doing it myself every 5 - 7500 miles. As with my wife's car, I rotate the tires as well during that service.

Question on rotation for the 1500s...Do you all / dealers do front-to-back, X-patter? Also looking at jack points...I'd love to get the whole vehicle off the ground...what do you do at home?

The owners manual lists the jack points and a quick search of this site will yield them as well.  Most common rotation practice on non-directional tread patterns is a front-to-back x pattern with the rear tires moving to the front without swapping sides.

Edited August 27, 2020 by Gangly

[KCU Beor]

2 minutes ago, Gangly said:

The owners manual lists the jack points and a quick search of this site will yield them as well.  Most common rotation practice on non-directional tread patterns is a front-to-back x pattern with the rear tires moving to the front without swapping sides.

Yea I guess my old man always did front to back and back to front and so I've always done it that way...Guessing the front back X extends the life of the tires just a little more?

[Gangly]

Depending on suspension types, front tires are more prone to directional cupping and edge of tire wear on the inside or outside based on worn out suspension components, poor suspension design, or improper alignments.  By swapping vehicle sides, you greatly decrease the directional cupping.  By swapping front to back, you allow a tire experiencing inside or outside edge wear a break from wear which in turn allows the tire to wear much more evenly.

 

Older F150's and F250's were NOTORIOUS for wearing out the inside edge of front tires based on a horrible front end suspension design.  If you didn't keep your front end springs and shocks in like new condition (Ie changing every 50K miles MAX), rotate the tires every 5k miles, you would have a good looking tire at 20k miles with a completely bald inside edge showing white threads.  By rotating the tires to the back of the truck you would give that inside edge a significantly longer life expectancy.

 

On my 2020 Z71, the Rancho's have gotten soft on the front end, which I really don't mind since the truck seems to ride great with them, but the inside edge of the tire is wearing more than the rest of the tire so I have to be diligent with my rotations.

Edited August 27, 2020 by Gangly

[loud_pipes]

I do my own, both oil and filter every 5k. Mobil 1 full syn and the recommended AC Delco filter. I also use an app to track all maintenance, with receipts, in case it is ever called into question.

 

 

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[MaverickZ71]

On 8/27/2020 at 10:21 AM, KCU Beor said:

Did the first myself at ~900 miles with Mobil 1 / Wix XP filter. Filter and plug are super easy to access - as opposed to my Accord where the filter is sideways and halfway up the bay. I plan on doing it myself every 5 - 7500 miles. As with my wife's car, I rotate the tires as well during that service.

Question on rotation for the 1500s...Do you all / dealers do front-to-back, X-pattern? Also looking at jack points...I'd love to get the whole vehicle off the ground...what do you do at home? I was thinking about getting 4 bottle jacks to place on each corner, but that sounds a little excessive.

Even with free dealer maintenance, I do my own oil changes and also do them for family and friends (was using Shell Rotella Gas Truck motor oil on the Silverados, but apparently that has been discontinued so will go back to Quaker State Ultimate Durability [GM's own Dexos and Pennzoil Platinum are also good] and Wix or Wix XP oil filters) every ~5000 miles. 

 

On the Silverado 1500s, (5.3L 6-speeds) my DIC-indicated oil life monitor oil changes would be around 5000 miles in the winter and 7500 in the summer, with some idling hours.  I just change it twice a year, once in the fall and once in the spring, and it works out to be around 5k miles.  I also rotate my own tires at every oil change if A/T tread tires, or at every-other oil change if highway tread tires.  Usually start at the rear and leave a jack stand under the rear axle at that one corner and just proceed around the truck with a 3-ton floor jack, in a clockwise manner.  For the fronts, I jack at the end of the front frame rails just behind the front wheel wells.  I always use the rears-straight-to-the-front and fronts-crossing-over-to-the-rear style of tire rotation.  Seems to work well--I got 75k miles out of the original Bridgestone Dueler A/T RH-S tires on the '09.  I grease the front outer tie-rod end zerks while I've got each front wheel off.  Gives me stress relief, peace of mind, and lets me see any other potential problems when I'm under there.  

 

I don't use the dealer freebies (I don't use a dealer at all unless I have to) because I've experienced too many incidents where I picked up the vehicle and upon further review, found out I'd gotten exactly what I'd paid for--oil under- or over-filled, oil filter not changed, zerks not greased, tires not rotated--not to mention additional side 'benefits' like radio station presets changed, muddy joyrides taken, dirty hand- and foot-prints, tech's fast food trash left in vehicle, etc.  

Edited August 31, 2020 by MaverickZ71

[Dunn]

do my own just because of the time it takes to make appt, drive to dealer and wait for 2 hrs than drive home.....its half a day wasted....its 15 min job @ home and i could really care less about brand of oil....but a war will start out pretty soon over which brand is better in next page or so, lol

[gregus73]

I had my oil changed at 3000 miles, and they addressed a warranty issue.

The GMC/Buick dealer also gave me a Buick loaner.

 

Have also changed oil many times in past vehicles, just easier to take the dealer since it is close to my house and they give free loaner vehicles.

Edited August 27, 2020 by gregus73