Jump to content

Clunk noise when turning wheel

Jalpoz

By Jalpoz
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jalpoz Enthusiast

Jalpoz

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I just got my truck leveled or lifted whichever you want to call it. I went with the rough country 3.5inch lifted struts and their upper control arms. I have 2wd so I don’t need any diff drops because I don’t have a front diff. Anyhow after I got everything installed with wheels as well (22x14) I started to hear this clunk/pop sound when I would turn the wheel. Sometimes it does it when I turn right or left. Sometimes it does it when I’m almost at full lock or just a slight turn of the wheel. I had the guys check it out and they said it was worn endlinks so I replaced those but now it still makes the noise. Any suggestions what it could be? It was not making this noise before the lift. They said it is normal to hear noises when lifting a truck because it’s not longer fully “stock” and won’t be again. But I don’t believe that. Am I worried about the sound or should I just not let it bother me? Any suggestions on what it could be would be great thanks! 

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

The pop is likey due to the struts. You have any pics of the truck? How much needed to be cut?

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Jalpoz Enthusiast

Jalpoz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Snowcamo said:

The pop is likey due to the struts. You have any pics of the truck? How much needed to be cut?

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

The strut? What do you mean by cut? They didn’t cut anything it was a bolt on kit they just replaced the old strut with a new one as far as km aware? 

Jalpoz Enthusiast

Jalpoz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, Snowcamo said:

So you did not have to cut the wheel well to fit the 14 wides?

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

No sir nothing has been cut on my wheel wheels. I haven’t modified anything to fit them. They fit pretty good for being only a 3.5inch “lift” 

Frankielozano214 Senior Enthusiast

Frankielozano214

Posted
Posted (edited)

Like to see pictures of that 14 wide on level kit sounds like it would need a lot of cutting to turn ( had level kit with 20x10 on 33s that rubbed at full lock) 

Edited by Frankielozano214
  • Like 1
Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
Like to see pictures of that 14 wide on level kit sounds like it would need a lot of cutting to turn ( had level kit with 20x10 on 33s that rubbed at full lock) 
Exactly. I had to nor cal to fit 20x10 and 33s.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Jalpoz Enthusiast

Jalpoz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 hours ago, Snowcamo said:

Exactly. I had to nor cal to fit 20x10 and 33s.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

I will get some pics but I can do a u turn on a 3 lane road which isn’t too bad for being on 14s. And I’m on street tires not 33s or mts/ats 

  • Like 1
Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

Right on man. That said I am not saying its not possible. This guy was selling his 14 wides on offerup. He said it rubs. I forget how much he leveled but hell it looked great!!!!fd9c9070e2a8cf9e6fae724cf9e9d294.jpg

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

  • 2 years later...
Riverac55 New Member

Riverac55

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado 1500, 101,000 miles. I have a very slight “clunk/pop” feel in my steering wheel when I turn at 0-5 mph. It just started happening. My ball joints and front end bushings are all good. Has anyone found any solutions if they’ve experienced this similar problem? Any help is appreciated. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...