Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

With all of GM's supply issues, my new 2500 still has no build date and will be missing some features.  I have just been offered an existing 3500 instead, which has all of the features I wanted except for the 5th wheel package which the dealer can install.  So ..  do I go with the 3500? Really reluctant to go bigger as I was actually considering a 1500 this time .. and worried about classificiations ===you know, when the government decides to make you safety and when they don't, lol.  Seems like the weight difference isn't much, but .. .wait for the 2500?  or go with this one?

Posted

Previous generations this was more of an issue as they capped the gvwr at 10k for the 2500 up until ‘20. Since then they are both well over 10k gvrw so I doubt there would be much difference, escpecially of you don’t already know because of certain regulations that you need to adhere to.  I actually had the opposite problem, I wanted a 3500 becuase they are more capable for essentially the same money with no drawbacks but all I could find was a 2500.  I would do it

 

Posted

The only real difference is the 3500 has an extra leaf spring. I believe the brakes are bigger too. Get the 3500.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Extra leafs, higher GVWR, 12 inch axle on diesel.  

 

Otherwise everything else is the same srw 2500 vs srw 3500.  Engine, trans, brakes, etc.  

Posted

I ordered a 2500 Denali with the 5th wheel package. I preferred a factory install since it'll come sealed and undercoated.  I've had a dealer installed 5th wheel and comparing them both really like the factory install.  I'd wait for the 2500 for this and the ride as others have commented.

Posted

I've had both already.  Zero difference in ride between the 2500 and 3500.  (I have the 3500 now).  

Posted

I think I would go with the 3500, you can always haul lighter, but you can’t haul heavier. As soon as you start looking at trailers......

  • Like 1
Posted

+1 on going with the 3500.  Depending on the state you can register both a 2500 and 3500 as 10k to stay under the limit so you don't need a dot number if you run it for your business.  

Posted

I rated my 2500 at 10k GVWR to allow me to pull a 16K trailer without a CDW license. 

Posted
On 3/8/2021 at 9:44 AM, gearheadesw said:

I think I would go with the 3500, you can always haul lighter, but you can’t haul heavier. As soon as you start looking at trailers......

^^^ What he said!!!

Posted

I would stay away from the factory hitch, that is the only thing I'm not happy with on my truck.  The goose ball is loose in the hitch and now it will not unlock and come out of the hitch.  Should have put a B & W in it and thrown the factory one in the trash!!!  Just my $0.02  your experience may vary!

:jester:

Posted

I use the B&W goose ball (TruckProUSA B&W GNXA2061) and it works great.  This is with the factory hitch.

Posted

better to have more than enough than not enough.......all things being equal with just an added spring in leaf i would go for 3500

 

if there was a serious ride or money issues maybe not.....but they are basically same in every way cept for more capability and they have it right now.....i would think a 3500 for anyone who tows and needs a HD.....they are such different trucks than a 1500

Posted

My vote is 3500. See too many people maxing or almost maxing out payload on 2500. I wouldn’t go 2500 anymore. 1500 or 3500. 
Your money though and you spending a lot of it so make sure you are happy with your choice. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,530 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...