Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Kind of a generic automotive question here, but looking for recommendations for a good dash camera. Considering it's a critical safety feature these days.

I have 2 so far, but I am not happy with either. the first is a Rexing brand, and its great...when it works. the problem is that isn't all that often. sitting in the windshield it seems to overheat in any temperature over 60 degrees if the sun is out, it will lock up even before it finishes displaying the splash screen. when you can get it to work its a great camera, but overall its terrible. I got a second one for my truck and this time spent 4x as much on one that was very highly rated, top on most lists actually. the Nextbase 622GW. 4k which is great as I've found at 1080 like the Rexing you can't read a plate unless you are really close to it. but to my dismay this one also is far less than perfect. better than my first camera for sure, but it also locks up often. I look over at it periodically and frequently see the lights not blinking and the display frozen and buttons not responding.

 

has anyone purchased a dash cam that offers good features and high quality images that actually works?

 

I have no idea why all these manufacturers can't build a camera that actually works when you need it. and both suffer from the same problem, frequent lock ups. you would think any engineer designing a product like this would know to incorporate a watchdog timer (software at least, hardware far better) which would automatically reset the camera should it freeze, yet 2 in a row, one a $400 product, it doesn't make me feel Iike I'm protected out there.

Posted
18 minutes ago, kodiakdenali said:

Kind of a generic automotive question here, but looking for recommendations for a good dash camera. Considering it's a critical safety feature these days.

I have 2 so far, but I am not happy with either. the first is a Rexing brand, and its great...when it works. the problem is that isn't all that often. sitting in the windshield it seems to overheat in any temperature over 60 degrees if the sun is out, it will lock up even before it finishes displaying the splash screen. when you can get it to work its a great camera, but overall its terrible. I got a second one for my truck and this time spent 4x as much on one that was very highly rated, top on most lists actually. the Nextbase 622GW. 4k which is great as I've found at 1080 like the Rexing you can't read a plate unless you are really close to it. but to my dismay this one also is far less than perfect. better than my first camera for sure, but it also locks up often. I look over at it periodically and frequently see the lights not blinking and the display frozen and buttons not responding.

 

has anyone purchased a dash cam that offers good features and high quality images that actually works?

 

I have no idea why all these manufacturers can't build a camera that actually works when you need it. and both suffer from the same problem, frequent lock ups. you would think any engineer designing a product like this would know to incorporate a watchdog timer (software at least, hardware far better) which would automatically reset the camera should it freeze, yet 2 in a row, one a $400 product, it doesn't make me feel Iike I'm protected out there.

I've used Cobra in the past.  Never had any problems with heat in here in the south.   They are fair priced too for what you get.

Posted (edited)

I have this:  Thinkware F800PRO 1080P WiFi GPS | Dash Cam | Thinkware USA

 

Mine is a front and rear bundle and OBD port for power.  

 

The only issues I ran into were created by myself.  I had messed up a setting in my phone which caused the app for the camera to not pair correctly to it.  The only other gripes is wind noise and its only 1080p.  I put a piece of foam over the speaker hole but I think its wind noise from the camera body.  

 

They make a 2K Thinkware Q800PRO 2K WiFi | Dash Cam | Thinkware USA  and  a 4K camera as well Thinkware U1000 4K WiFi GPS | Dash Cam | Thinkware USA

 

 

Edited by newdude
Posted

I design automotive chips and can tell you designing for high automotive temperature ranges is very difficult. The problem with most of these systems is they use commercial flash memory for storage. If it works at 75C your lucky. Compare that to a dedicated automotive memory they still work at 175C. The cheap Chinese manufactured ones will struggle unless they have a really good screening and test program to find the weak parts.

Posted

Kind of shocked by the off the shelf answers.

Viofo is great as long as you only want forward facing.  The rear camera is a dud.  I've tried everything outside of putting a Faraday cage around it and the cables.... it blocks things like TPMS and the keyfob.  Front camera works perfectly but would suggest adding the polarized filter

 

BlackVue also makes a decent unit but I can only go by hearsay

Posted

I'd love to see an optional built-in cam, I'd even spend $500 for it and not worry about it. I've seen some fall off windows during warm days. I've seen some have SD card issues.

Posted

I've been researching a cam as well.  Haven't used one until now, so I've been trying to learn as much as possible.  So far, I've narrowed my list down to two so far.  A cheaper 1080P model, the Street Guardian SGGCX2PRO+ (  https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07GV4DHYM/?coliid=I3T1CMX1QZSYQ6&colid=5JOFUPAEZFQ0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it ) or a pricier 4k model, the ThinkWare U1000 ( https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07XD6FLSY/?coliid=IUFS08WW3Z19M&colid=5JOFUPAEZFQ0&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it ).  My biggest concern so far, was mountability.  I don't like sticking stuff to the glass.  I've never had anything stay mounted properly, and reliably, long term, that is just stuck to the glass.  I was hoping for something that would mount similar to, or with a radar detector.

Posted
10 hours ago, Wiggums said:

I'd love to see an optional built-in cam, I'd even spend $500 for it and not worry about it. I've seen some fall off windows during warm days. I've seen some have SD card issues.

How do you think it'd be stored with a built-in?  Suppose you could use a full size SSD but if you're talking about a good 4K camera front and back, 500 isn't a stretch for one you stick on your windshield.  

 

Just be sure to get an SD card designed for the temps and lots of read/write

Posted
On 3/11/2021 at 7:36 AM, Rob Mugs said:

How do you think it'd be stored with a built-in?  Suppose you could use a full size SSD but if you're talking about a good 4K camera front and back, 500 isn't a stretch for one you stick on your windshield.  

 

Just be sure to get an SD card designed for the temps and lots of read/write

An ideal one would be able to stay on while the vehicle is parked, drawing little power and watching it at nights. Something that's permanently wired and not hanging from my front window like an aftermarket. Maybe a small one under the mirror? It can be done.

Posted
On 3/11/2021 at 9:39 AM, redwngr said:

It's not made for GM. I want something that is permanent, like in front of the rearview mirror and embedded in the walls, not hanging out like an aftermarket.

Posted (edited)
46 minutes ago, Wiggums said:

It's not made for GM. I want something that is permanent, like in front of the rearview mirror and embedded in the walls, not hanging out like an aftermarket.

Yes, they are available other places, but thought that GM selling them thru accessories might indicate that they should survive in the cab environment.

The ones available thru gm aren't the top of the line that thinkware offers. 

 

Perhaps a 'built-for-gm version' after the MCE expected for the 2022's.

Edited by redwngr
Posted (edited)

using a AUKEY in mine... and use the same model in all my cars.

link to it on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075S7W6FR/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A1GB2I3NQT9NQC&psc=1

 

I have the cable under the headliner and down the A pillar on the passengers side, before feeding the cable behind the bottom edge of the dash and routing the cable to the glovebox USB.

I would recommend getting a 90 degree connector, as the cable that comes with the camera will get a little "kinked" when closing the glove box otherwise.

link to the 90 deg cable connection

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084WPG7QG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Front camera WILL need a filter. The viofo clips onto the AUKEY perfectly!

link to the filter on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0KVD4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Standard memory cards will last one summer parked outside.

"High Endurance" cards will get a couple of years.

link to the card on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Endurance-microSDXC-Adapter-Monitoring/dp/B07NY23WBG/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/140-3681450-1512527?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07NY23WBG&pd_rd_r=93c2560a-c581-4313-9e83-56afe89b7352&pd_rd_w=u067F&pd_rd_wg=1uIsf&pf_rd_p=f325d01c-4658-4593-be83-3e12ca663f0e&pf_rd_r=NX8GAGXT7P71EWQHXYJR&psc=1&refRID=NX8GAGXT7P71EWQHXYJR

 

in the last 3 years these cameras have saved 10 times what ive paid for them in different events that have happened. *"they rear ended me officer!" and then i share the footage that shows they backed into me*

 

good investment

 

*NOTE:  if anyone is interested, I can snap a few photos and video tomorrow to share*

 

Thread with photos and video from the camera installed. <--- Click

Edited by pixelmonkey380
addition of request for photos and video

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My nephews 7.3 got noisy right around 100K miles. While replacing the engine he drove his old 6.0 Chevy that had over 200K miles on it. It an old reliable backup. I haven’t been around the old shop lately. I’m curious to find out if there using the new GM heavy duty gas.
    • I don't know if you or anyone enjoys it or not but, why not share it. It's GM "truck" related and we're in the right place to discuss that 😉 I'm also working on some creative writing skills, I'm not quitting my day job to pursue that, either!   As I said, I've hit a wall because I'm not making any progress, and the progress is the fun part for me.   The idler pulley and EGR valve came in. Against better judgement, I went out there last night and put both of them in. I was able to get a nut on the back of the bolt on the side with the broken flange. There's enough flange still there that I can get that side of the EGR to snug down. It's not perfect, it's not "right", but this is the fix I have for now. If I decide to keep the rig, I talked to a guy locally who will sell me a complete intake for $100. If it's my truck, a broken flange like that would bug me too much. Yes, I'm crazy. But I embrace it.   Pulley on, EGR installed, started the truck. Great...still have a pulley squeaking like mad. That was the first disappointment. I thought I had pinpointed the problem. Before I replaced it, I sprayed the back of that pulley with PTFE and it would shut up for about 30 seconds. Is the squeak actually the belt? I'm frustrated.   SO then I decided why not disappoint myself twice, so I took it for a spin and sure enough, the CEL set for P0401 insufficient EGR flow again.   I had some extra time, so when I arrived home, I decided to ask AI about my EGR code. We had an interesting conversation.   I asked how to tell if my MAP sensor is bad and if that could be setting an EGR code since a bad MAP may not be sensing the requisite drop in manifold pressure when the EGR activates. I gave it the MAP value at idle and it told me to blip the throttle hard and watch the MAP reading. It said no, the values appear normal and it's reactive to pressure changes, and then instructed me to test voltage at the harness. I don't think it's the MAP sensor. Interesting, though, I gave it MAP reading values in inHg, and it thought I was using PSI, so I had to correct it. AI is a very dangerous tool if you aren't treating it like the machine that it is.   Then it walked me through testing the EGR and harness. It took me down an interesting path. It was referencing a gray wire and a white wire so I told it I can't tell the difference on my harness because it's dirty and old and both could be white or gray, I'm not sure. So it gave me a more accurate description of the ABCDE pins on the connector and started referencing pins instead of colors. Helpful.   The EGR harness has 12v power, and it also has 5v reference power from the PCM. What I'm unclear on is there's a ground wire and I thought AI had said that one of my tests revealed the ground in the harness was likely bad and it instructed me to wire a test ground. I got distracted and navigated away from the AI conversation, and when I went back and asked for clarification it said I must have misunderstood. (how rude- next time I'm saving the conversation!)   But I think it was onto something. I recall NOT getting 12v when I tested the power wire to the ground wire, but I did when I tested the power wire, grounding the voltmeter to the engine block. AI said no, the ground wire is actually for the PCM, that's how it commands the EGR on by grounding it and so the circuit should be open with the key on (i.e. EGR off). But I think there's also a static/overall ground that should always be grounded, and if that's bad, then the EGR isn't activating when the PCM commands it on, and thus setting the code.   There's a bunch of other tests it suggested, back-probing with the EGR plugged in and engine running. I need to get some time to focus, and not just tinkering after a long day.  
    • the 7.3 lifter issue is real, not few and far between.  my 6.6 gas does not use oil.  the 7.3 with 4.30 gears pulled hills better and felt better off the line. the 6.6 gets the job done though. mpg sucks
    • are you talking about the loud whooshing, grinding type noise? mine does it too
    • I am a huge fan of the Slate.  (SUV for her, base pickup for me.)  Unfortunately, there are no plans to sell in Canada but maybe this will change.  I think if/when Ford offered a high range. EV Maverick, it would be my first choice.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...