Jump to content

Brakes Squealing while going slow through drive through

maximumspeed
 Share

Recommended Posts

maximumspeed Enthusiast

maximumspeed

Posted
Posted

Pads from manufacturing who make the brake pads for Gm  we’re replaced because of squealing at a crawl 

they replaced the pads and it started again after a week  

anyone else have this problem 

call Gm and waiting for reply 

dealer said they wouldn’t do anything about it they replaced like Gm had instructed 

 

Alan Juden Enthusiast

Alan Juden

Posted
Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, maximumspeed said:

Pads from manufacturing who make the brake pads for Gm  we’re replaced because of squealing at a crawl 

they replaced the pads and it started again after a week  

anyone else have this problem 

call Gm and waiting for reply 

dealer said they wouldn’t do anything about it they replaced like Gm had instructed 

 

 

@maximumspeed, I have the same problem (still). I found another post mentioning this issue that referenced a bulletin # (20-NA-020 - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10172288-9999.pdf). My dealership replaced all of my pads and the noise is still there. I asked my service department about it again and they told me that the "mixture used in the brake pads was changed with 2020's and they're still working on figuring out the noise issue". They also told me they'd replace the brakes again whenever the mixture gets figured out. I think it probably won't ever be figured out and I'll just wind up replacing the pads / rotors setup. Side note - I live off of gravel so not sure if that has anything to do with it but my last Chevrolet truck didn't make noise like this while I drove it on gravel.

Edited by Alan Juden
  • 2 weeks later...
kmonto Enthusiast

kmonto

Posted
Posted

I broke 30k and since I bought it new they have squealed.  Conway, AR dealership stated several times that they are working as designed no issues with them squealing.  Got to love it.  Showed them instructions from GM on what to do.  They have refused and stated it is working as designed.  Good luck on if they will address it.  Probably going to upgrade to PowerStops as I have NEVER had them squeal.  

vucelick Enthusiast

vucelick

Posted
Posted

Dad had the same issue, dealer replaced the pads twice, the squeal always came back at low speeds.  Finally got frustrated, and even though still under warranty installed the wagner posi quiet (might have been centric thermo quiet pads)  Problem solved,  I know it sucks, but the noise was driving dad crazy.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
shadow gray 2020 hd Enthusiast

shadow gray 2020 hd

Posted
Posted

Dealership just replaced my fronts, they said the back pads were still backordered.  I did not notice any squealing driving home.  I do think the majority of the squealing was coming from my back brakes though.  Guess we will see.

  • 2 weeks later...
greatmizzou Enthusiast

greatmizzou

Posted
Posted

Im having this problem again too.  Is the issue the GM mechanics are not orienting the brake pads correctly and just slapping them on like any other? If I remember the TSB didnt it say the inner/outer facing brake pads on the caliper were slightly different?

  • 3 weeks later...
maximumspeed Enthusiast

maximumspeed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just so everyone knows I had a call from Gm about my brakes and they tell me that they won’t pay for another set of brakes as they have been replaced once then she tells me that they recommend new brakes every 12000 km lol my reply was WHAT

seriously who is this person. I will be calling tomorrow because the person that called me I’m sure has no ideal what the hell she’s talking about 

more to come stand by 😎

  • 3 weeks later...
LOCK_n_LOAD New Member

LOCK_n_LOAD

Posted
Posted

Ah yes, the awful squeal noise on my 2020 GMC Sierra Denali HD (2500) is familiar. I've had my pads replaced once and the squeal came back quickly. I am looking for an aftermarket option and prefer EBC brake pads and rotors, but they don't have any pads for the 2020+ HD trucks. I think that GM screwed this one up BIG TIME with the consumers, but what do they care, because vehicle demands are way to high and customer service has suffered. I was in shock when the dealership pad slapped my new truck with the service bulletin. At least the rotors should have been turned. 

DonYukon Enthusiast

DonYukon

Posted
Posted

ive been waiting 6 weeks for "pads to come in" at this point ill just drive my truck around the dealership at slow speeds until they get sick of it lol 

It's Tim Senior Enthusiast

It's Tim

Posted
Posted
On 11/27/2021 at 11:39 AM, maximumspeed said:

Drive through is the worst expensive truck with this god  awful squeal I am going to look into the new pads 

thanks 

I truly respect the decision of those that continue to "dine out" fully accepting of the challenge "what'd they put in my food today".  😉

bird_dog0347 Enthusiast

bird_dog0347

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, maximumspeed said:

Good for you they tell me that they won’t replace twice they replaced my pads and it started up again in a couple weeks 

Why would you expect the pads to change the squeal? The compound of the pads they use is what causes it, new pads will still squeal if they don't change the material and at this point it's a safe bet they have not and will not change it. Just need to try some aftermarket pads.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
    • Matt Parker
      Clunk when putting truck into drive and reverse.

      By Matt Parker · Posted

      It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power.    I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings?   EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears.   UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...