Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have a 2020 Sierra HD with this same problem. According to the dealership, this is NOT covered under the bumper to bumper warranty and is ONLY covered for 7,500 miles regardless of any service bulletins.  . Well my truck has 21,908 miles and guess its my fault for not taking it in sooner thinking I had 3 years / 36,000 miles for any "manufacture defects" to be corrected. Very disappointed however, I would like someone to verify this is true and not just the dealership being...... how can I say it nicely...... "ill-informed"....... Hate feeling like this dealership is trying to not do the work for whatever the reason. 

Posted

I had the squeal and the dealer I purchased from only changed the fronts. Squeal came back in a few months. I then took it to a dealer in Florida (Estero Bay Chevrolet) and they replaced all 4. The squeal is gone except for an occasional minor sweal in the morning and not every day. A good dealer will support you.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I am on my second set of dealer-replaced brakes and they are squealing again. They were only down to 97-98% before they started AGAIN. So frustrating, under warranty, getting replacements and it is the same problem since I bought the truck 3 years ago! 

 

2020 GMC 2500HD

Posted (edited)
On 3/28/2022 at 12:40 PM, Truston Gunter said:

So I have a 2020 Sierra HD with this same problem. According to the dealership, this is NOT covered under the bumper to bumper warranty and is ONLY covered for 7,500 miles regardless of any service bulletins.  . Well my truck has 21,908 miles and guess its my fault for not taking it in sooner thinking I had 3 years / 36,000 miles for any "manufacture defects" to be corrected. Very disappointed however, I would like someone to verify this is true and not just the dealership being...... how can I say it nicely...... "ill-informed"....... Hate feeling like this dealership is trying to not do the work for whatever the reason. 

Think the dealer may have been dishonest with you.  I had my pads replaced free under the bumper to bumper around 8000 miles.  There is a tsb on it.  They actually replaced the fronts first, the back pads took about 3-4 weeks longer to come in.  I have my truck going in tomorrow, and they will be looking at replacing the brakes again for squealing again(ordering new pads), while it is there for a recall and oil change.  Truck has just shy of 15,000 miles on it now.  My truck is a 2020, bought in August of 2020.

Edited by shadow gray 2020 hd
Posted
19 hours ago, shadow gray 2020 hd said:

Think the dealer may have been dishonest with you.  I had my pads replaced free under the bumper to bumper around 8000 miles.  There is a tsb on it.  They actually replaced the fronts first, the back pads took about 3-4 weeks longer to come in.  I have my truck going in tomorrow, and they will be looking at replacing the brakes again for squealing again(ordering new pads), while it is there for a recall and oil change.  Truck has just shy of 15,000 miles on it now.  My truck is a 2020, bought in August of 2020.

Since this post I have contacted the dealership from which I purchased the vehicle from, ( Cavendar Auto Country in Weimar, TX ) which is 160 miles away. At first they told me that the info I gave have them didn't seem right and they would look into it. They also confirmed the service bulletin. The local dealer I use is about 30 miles away (aransas autoplex in Aransas Pass, TX), they explain to me that GM would deny their claim because it is over the 7500 miles threshold . Later on Cavendar called me back after speaking with their manager and informed me of the same. I personally believe the size of the dealership in this case matters. Both of these dealers are "small" versus a national chain who would more than likely absorb any loses if GM did deny a warranty claim after the work was done. Anyways, that's all the info I have right now, I also found a fixed to the squeaking, just gotta keep it above 50 mph in the drive thru and voilà no squeaking!!!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...